GE Washer Cold Water Valve?

Old 01-24-08, 06:37 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 90
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
GE Washer Cold Water Valve?

Hello. We have a GE WJRR4170E4WW. It's actually a replacement since the first one crapped out after 13 months.

The last 2 weeks the cold water keeps running into the washer during all cycles and even when the machine is off.

Is the part I am looking for WH13X10024 the VALVE ASM WATER as they call it on the GE site? And is it safe to buy from an online appliance parts store as the parts are 1/2 the price offered by GE.

Also, if I take the back plate off the washer, will I be able to replace said part myself without much problem?

Many thanks for your help.

Old 01-25-08, 04:58 AM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 52
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yes the part that you would need is the water inlet valve part number wh13x10024.

Yes on-line parts stores are very safe and here is a go one to try to get your appliance part.

This is a very easy repair to make and you should be able to do it yourself by removing the back panel.
Old 12-27-08, 12:20 PM
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 89
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
leaky water valve: repair/replace?


I have a similar question. The water valve (pn: wh13x78, according to for my GE front load washer (model: wsxh208a1WW) leaks a little where the plastic column/valve housing for the cold water meets the top of the horizontally oriented metal plate. It leaked enough to wet the motor (I'm guessing), cause a short, and trip the circuit breaker. I believe the motor is fine, but didn't want to ignore this!

I'm wondering if a little caulk where the water is appearing would prevent this or would the pressure build up and pop this. I'm thinking this is kind of sketchy, but figured I would mention the simple solution!

Another possibility is the screws that hold the part together. I didn't know if this would have any effect because these screws seem to hold the stuff below the plate onto the plate (as opposed to the two columns on top tight to the plate. Also worried that I might just shatter the plastic body of the rest of the part by tightening these screws.

Any thoughts? Should I try these things or just go for the new part for $60?

Thanks folks.

I posted a picture in case my jabber doesn't make any sense.

Image of GE Washer water valve w/leak - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Old 12-27-08, 12:51 PM
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 517
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
you need a new valve. even if caulk worked(which i doubt) the risk of it leaking again wouldnt be worth it.
Old 12-27-08, 05:50 PM
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 89
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I suppose when you put it that way, there's not much sense in cheaping out. The way my luck goes, the thing would give way while I'm out of town and really make a mess.

Thanks for your response and the reality check!
Old 12-29-08, 09:11 AM
apwagner's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 23
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Old 12-29-08, 06:42 PM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,021
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
AP Wagner's price is $50.53 plus shipping. I found the same valve [new] on EBay for as little as $9 plus shipping.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Your question will be posted in: