Kenmore Dryer won't stay running AND won't go into start mode

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Old 02-27-08, 09:10 AM
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Exclamation Kenmore Dryer won't stay running AND won't go into start mode

Hello,

Any help you can provide would be great. I have a Kenmore Elite Dryer (model 110.60972990) that has decided to not run if the Start Button is not held down continuously. As soon as I let go of the Start button it stops running. I've read through many threads and decided to go purchase a new computer board, which did not help. We also switched the heat and motor relays with no change.

Also, and maybe more disturbing, is the fact that I can't get the dryer to go into test mode. I found the Tech Sheet that shipped with my dryer and it says

1. Open the door
2. Set Fabric Care/Temp switch to Air Fluff
3. Set Signal Switch to Loud
4. Set Timer to Timed Dry or Auto Moisture
5. Turn Wrinkle Guard switch from OFF to ON three times within 5 seconds

At this point we're supposed to hear beep but I have never heard a thing. Why would my dryer NOT go into test mode?

Many thanks in advance!
 
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Old 02-27-08, 12:01 PM
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If the only way your dryer will run is by holding the start button that is tell me that the run winding in the motor is opened.

There are two winding in the motor. One winding start the motor turning and the other takes over and runs the motor.

So while you hold the start button in the motor is running on the start winding.

Because the motor is a sealed unit you will have to replace the motor.

I am not sure why the dryer will not go through the test mode.

Here is a good place to get appliance parts.
 
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Old 02-27-08, 02:16 PM
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Oh nuts! I've replaced the coupler in my washing machine but last night, when looking at the inside of my dryer, I couldn't even fathom how I'd replace anything down there.

Anyone out there want to trade a motor for the computer board I purchased?
 
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Old 02-27-08, 03:49 PM
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Oh nuts! I've replaced the coupler in my washing machine
Do-able task if you can replace a coupler.

Somewhere in the dryer is a wiring diagram. If you cant find it, or if it isnt legible any longer, Spend some time on the net, and hunt it down.

Sears has the worst post consumer support Ive seen, so you may have to match it to actual MFR website. The 110 prefix in your model # says it was built by Whirlpool.....ANyway...

Spend a few minutes with the diagram and a Circuit tester, before ripping anything apart. If the motor itself is bad, then it has cost you half an hour of your time. If there is a loose or broken contact somewhere that you didnt see..That half hour is much cheaper than a motor that you cant use.....

Im a new homeowner, and new to the appliance scene. As such I wont doubt anyones expertise, But the hardest part of a problem is figuring out what is wrong, by reasonable thinking, instead of throwing parts at it and "HOPING".
 
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Old 02-27-08, 07:25 PM
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There are a couple of issues you could be having...

1. A bad motor relay in the console..

2. Bad even heat board..

Here is a link to test this dryer...

http://www.applianceaid.com/evenheat.html
 
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Old 02-28-08, 12:27 PM
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OK. We decided to have someone come out and look at the dryer just to make sure we weren't missing something easy (and also to pick their brain a little so we could better understand all of this) and we were told that it is probably the thermistor. They also said that if we replace the thermistor we must replace the computer board at the same time because a bad thermistor will fry the board as well. I asked a few more questions and it didn't seem to add up in my brain so I said thank you and let the men go. Is this really something I need to consider? There are no external signs of damage to my old board nor my new one. That's not to say that all damage must be visible but again ... it just didn't add up in my head.

Just as a recap...

1. We know the problem is not the computer board alone
2. We switched the heat and motor relays ... no change
3. We can't get the dryer to go into test mode
 
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Old 02-28-08, 12:53 PM
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Yes, it is possible for a "Resistance" based thermistor to damage a board...

If your brave, you can change the thermistor yourself and try it....Its cheaper than having someone replace both, and it shouldnt be a gut wrenching task to replace..
 
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