Whirlpool Electric Dryer Immediately heats, but won't spin


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Old 03-26-08, 07:30 PM
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Whirlpool Electric Dryer Immediately heats, but won't spin

Hello,

I have a whirlpool model# LER7646EQ2 that will begin to heat as soon as the control knob is turned. When the start button is pressed, the motor sounds like it may be trying to start, but doesn't. The dryer has a new motor, heat element, themal cut-off and thermostat. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks !
 
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Old 03-26-08, 09:01 PM
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dose the motor make a humming sound when button pushed or dose ir start and than stop after button is released, humming sound bad motor, start and than stop bad control board (and or) motor start relay
 
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Old 03-27-08, 09:25 AM
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The motor sounds like it just hums. The first time I turned it on it spun and worked just fine, but I noticed the heat element stayed on and began to get quite hot. I am wondering if one of the thermostats or high limit cutoff is the incorrect one, or installed improperly.
 
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Old 03-27-08, 05:02 PM
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Do you have all the screws? What about you screwdriver?
did you drop anything inside the machine? Are you missing a sock?
Sounds like something Jamming the Blower wheel.

No airflow...excessive heat at the elements....Humming motor...Jammed......

I am wondering if one of the thermostats or high limit cutoff is the incorrect one, or installed improperly.
You would not have "Heat" if these items were abnormally trying to correct an Overheated Condition.
 
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Old 03-27-08, 06:08 PM
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Indeed, I do have all screws, tools, etc. present and accounted for. I am however missing one of my most favored socks! All joking aside, I am beginning to question the timer itself. The heating element should not come on and begin to heat until the start switch is depressed, but as soon as you turn the knob to a cycle, the element heats up, before you hit the switch. I have 120Vac at the heat element, and the cutoff, thermostats, with the timer off. I don't know if it is supposed to be that way or not. Thank you for the insight thus far and rest assured, I will be double checking the blower wheel and keeping safety priority #1.

Thanks again !
 
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Old 03-27-08, 06:51 PM
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Just finished checking the blower wheel; no obstructions. The sock is still M.I.A.
 
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Old 03-28-08, 05:14 AM
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Wiring and Tech Sheet

The heating element should not come on and begin to heat until the start switch is depressed, but as soon as you turn the knob to a cycle, the element heats up, before you hit the switch. I have 120Vac at the heat element, and the cutoff, thermostats, with the timer off.
Take a look at the link ..Its your wiring diagram....
First off, this is a 220 dryer...so 120 at the element is part of your problem.....

You are there and I am not......But Judging by the wiring diagram, I too can concievably blame the timer,but Spend a few minutes following the diagram . It may become apparent that there is something you have consistently overlooked.

Just for giggles.......CHECK THE VOLTAGE AT THE WALL RECEPTACLE.............!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Incorrect line voltage can cause this also.(Loose wire, Bad circuit breaker......Did you reinstall the power cord correctly when you reassembled?)
 
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Old 03-28-08, 05:42 AM
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I do have 220 Vac line voltage coming into the dryer. That was my first thought when I got the 120V reading at the element without the dryer being turned on. I will have to study the wiring diagram you provided ( a big thank you by the way ). Just briefly looking it over it does appear that it is possible for 120V to make it to the heat element if the timer is malfunctioning. Or am I all wet?

Thanks !

Jayson
 
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Old 03-28-08, 05:59 AM
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Just briefly looking it over it does appear that it is possible for 120V to make it to the heat element if the timer is malfunctioning.
Absolutely....

If you noticed, The thermo's and limiters work on "Exhaust Air", Not the heater grid directly. If they were defective in any way, being that they are both normally closed switches, Your heater grid wouldnt work at all.

During normal operation, if you measure ACROSS the heater grid terminals, you should have 220 volts(Give or take....210- 250 range would be acceptable). This is a combination of Line 1 + line 2. Your timer runs on 120 as does your motor. These would be "TAPS" from line 2 to neutral.This is why I asked if you reinstalled the power cord correctly. A neutral wire where a power feed should be would give you 120v where 220 is expected.

Check Switches as per diagram, Timer #2....1M and 2M. either of these switches in the closed position would energize the Heater grid.

This IS Definitely starting to sound like a timer problem...But since they arent cheap, Spend Your TIME checking and your money Fixing..
 
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Old 03-28-08, 06:15 AM
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Back to basic, will drum turn by hand fairly easily, remember will turn drum and motor, at heater element use meter 1 leg to ground and 1 leg to 1 of wires should be (220 240) if not something wired wrong. Is humming coming motor area? on that model you can take front off and drum out leave wires connected to door and try to turn on, heater should work and motor and blower should run, be careful 240 in there
 
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Old 03-28-08, 06:24 AM
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sry not thinking right should 110 hot to ground 220 only at plug with machine off
 
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Old 03-28-08, 05:00 PM
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After further testing of the circuits, I believe I may have found the problem. The pluggable drive motor switch on the new motor was stuck. That explains why it worked when I first tried it, but every time since, with the switch stuck, it does allow power through to the heat element. Once the switch is engaged, the dryer operates normally. Now I need to figure out why the switch is sticking..... I'm getting closer,,,
 
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Old 03-28-08, 05:16 PM
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The pluggable drive motor switch on the new motor was stuck.
Did you swap this on to the new motor from the old one, or..was it part of the new motor?
 
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Old 03-28-08, 06:29 PM
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It was part of the new motor. It appears that the sliding mechanism on the armature of the motor is just a bit too tight. You can move the mechanism easily by hand, but it is supposed to be slid out towards the pulley until the unit is started, then it is pulled in. Once the dryer is stopped, the mechanism is supposed to snap back out and engage the switch.
 
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Old 03-28-08, 08:17 PM
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Warranty Claim??????

Why pay for it twice?
 
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Old 03-29-08, 01:44 PM
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I called the parts house and asked if they been encountering any issues with their reman (chinese made) motors; they replied they hadn't. I explained the issue to them and took the motor back down to them this morning. I opted for the OEM motor ( an additional $20 ) Once installed and re-tested, the dryer operates flawlessly. And now I am capable of pulling the motor on this dryer in under 10 minutes flat ! Once again, thanks to all who posted replies. !!

I believe this is one of the stranger appliance issues I have encountered. The guy down at the parts house said that in his 15 years in the business, he had never heard of the centrifugal weight / spring assembly sticking. But agreed that when it does stick, you will have constant voltage to the heat element until the timer is turned to the off position, or the dryer is unplugged.
 
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Old 03-29-08, 03:56 PM
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I opted for the OEM motor ( an additional $20 )
Not that you did anything wrong, But if you are doing a repair job for yourself, Always use the OEM parts.

Parts houses and repair companies buy these things 500 units at a time. So the 20 $ saved on each of 500 units is quite a bit of money.Then take into account the parts Mark-up, and the labor. These dont usually affect the do it yourselfer, so why settle for substandard, and have to do the job twice ..over a 20$ bill....
 
 

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