GE Profile refrigerator condenser fan not turning on

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  #1  
Old 06-24-08, 02:41 PM
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GE Profile refrigerator condenser fan not turning on

Hey all, I have a GE Profile refrigerator (model PDS22SFSBRSS) that needs some help.

I noticed last Friday that it was running constantly, and taking a long time to cool down after the doors were opened (it has digital temp display). It ran constantly all weekend too. Last night I pulled it away from the wall and took the rear cover off. The first thing I noticed was the condenser fan not running, while the compressor was on. The compressor was too hot to touch, and the connection at the end of the drier looked kind of melted. Not sure if anything is broken there.

But, I took the condenser fan off (it's a 12VDC type), and tested it with a 9V battery. It works! So, whatever is supposed to turn that fan on isn't working.

Any ideas? Main control board? The evaporator fan is working, and there is no frost anywhere (haven't checked evaporator coil). I put a room fan on the back side, and that got the temps back down to normal, and the dang thing actually turns off now and then, as it should.

Help!

Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 06-25-08, 12:30 AM
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I would look at the schematic to be 100% sure but an educated guess would be the main board
 
  #3  
Old 06-25-08, 07:37 AM
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Thanks snacks, someone on another board agrees. I have on coming in the mail...so we'll see if that does it!
 
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Old 06-25-08, 04:57 PM
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OK, a new twist in the troubles. So, having made the fan work with a 9V battery, I figured the motor was OK.

However, today I tested the voltage coming to the condenser fan while the fridge was on. It tested 13+volts DC at pink/white and red/white. So, this tells me the board is sending voltage. Dangit! The board is already in the mail to me.

However, oddly, when I disconnect this molex plug (the white one with the red/white/pink going in, and red/blue/yellow/white coming out), I hear the evaporator fan turn off. Plug it back together, and it comes back on. So, for some reason, the evap fan has to make a loop through the condenser fan in order to run. Does that make sense? This is getting confusing.

Now I'm not so sure the new board will make a difference, and I'll be out $90.

Was my 9V battery test worthless?

Also, I included a photo of the compressor and drier (torpedo shaped copper at top). Look at the left end of the drier and tell me if that looks melted/broken to you. The fridge is cooling fine (I still have the room fan pointed on the condenser/compressor), so I assume the coolant is all still there. This just looks bad.

Any other help would be much appreciated. I'm not sure now whether to just reject the package when it comes (the new control board), or try it anyway.

Thanks!



 
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Old 06-25-08, 06:14 PM
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I can see from the pictures that the filter drier melted because the condenser fan was not running. The refrigerant hasn't leaked out, but it will soon.

I am not sure how old the refrigerator is, but I recommend replacing the unit. I wouldn't waste the money if its a older fridge.
 
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Old 06-25-08, 07:52 PM
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Don't worry about a system problem, that is only a plastic tubing around the cap tube, and you will have no leak. Find the problem why the fan is not working, and you should be good to go. You need to test the voltage going to the fan motor with the fan pluged in. You probably are getting a false reading of 13 volts with no load. Test it with the fan pluged in and get back to us.

Himeros
 
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Old 06-25-08, 08:47 PM
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Genius! I tested voltage with the fan still plugged in (a bit tough to jam my VOM probes into the molex plug, but it worked), and only got 2.4 VDC from the pink/white combo. This probably isn't enough voltage to turn the condenser fan, methinks.

So, maybe we are back to a board problem! That would make me happy, since there's one in the mail as we speak.

Thanks for the tip, himeros!

Oh, and bbenjamin, it's less than 2 years old. Upon closer inspection, it is just the plastic tubing that is slightly melted. The black crap they put on at the factory just made it look worse than it is. I suspect if there was a leak, the refrigerant would be gone by now...but the fridge is working great (with a room fan pointed at the condenser/compressor).
 
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Old 07-02-08, 09:04 AM
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Update: new control board is in, and the condenser fan is working again. Thanks again Himeros!
 
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Old 07-02-08, 10:02 PM
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Your welcome, and you did a very good job at testing things out so we could help you.

Himeros
 
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Old 09-05-12, 02:12 AM
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Not sure if this thread is still active or too old, but I have the exact same problem described above:
I get a reading of 13.5V from white/red and white/pink to the fan, but once under motor load, the white/pink drops to about 3V, and the fan turns too slow to be of use, while the white/red maintains 13.5 V.
But in my case, I found that jumping the red and pink wires from circuit board to fan *appears* to solve the issue, and in doing so, 13.5V is maintained and the fan runs properly.
Sooooo... my question is, is this acceptable, or is the real issue a bad circuit board that should be replaced, as we don't know if there's something else about it malfunctioning, or perhaps jumping the red and pink to force proper voltage to the fan will ultimately blow out the board.

My other question is: Why are there 2 positives tot he fan? Is there ever a time when only one of the 2 would be energized, and why?

Thanks in advance
-Lee
 
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Old 09-05-12, 02:00 PM
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having the same issue with my new GE hotpoint. had techs out 3 times and they never cought this and thought it was running normally even though after it would get hot and run a while it made a horrible noise.
trying to get them to honor this even though i went 3 months out of warranty but GE are being complete**** about it.

hopefully my condenser isnt beaten to much from being so hot for so long.
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 09-05-12 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Blogs and company bashing not allowed
 

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