is kenmore motor going bad?


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Old 06-26-08, 04:26 PM
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is kenmore motor going bad?

Kenmore dryer, Model 110.86983110

Stopped, when the start button is pressed it hums.
Took it completely apart, new exhaust pipe, cleaned it up big time, tried it and it worked like a champ.
First load stalls mid-cycle and the power button hums.
)
So is the motor in the process of dying or what?
 
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Old 06-26-08, 04:34 PM
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sounds like that might be the case.
 
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Old 06-26-08, 05:11 PM
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Or the mechanical load on the motor has increased, but I don't see how it can in a dryer.
Monitoring motor current draw may tell you.
If the motor stops and the current draw decreases I'd say the motor is bad.
If the current increases it could be increased load or a temperature sensitive short in the windings.

Also, check that you're getting high-enough line voltage, at least 216v, at least 108v to the motor.
 
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Old 06-26-08, 05:19 PM
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Red face

If the rollers are good and seals around door or rear bulkhead are OK than the only thing is the motor. Only other thing is something jammed in blower wheel, Shouldn't your in your case as it run for a little while.
 
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Old 06-26-08, 05:32 PM
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If the new part fails in a short time, you haven't found the overriding, root, cause. But, again, how many things can go wrong in a dryer?

Sounds like the smart money is on the motor.
So, rewind or buy new or factory rebuilt?
Grainger or OEM or a Trible's type appliance repair parts company?
 
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Old 06-26-08, 06:40 PM
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well the new motor is 130 clams. for those kinda' $s and the fact that the dryer is 15+ years i'm thinkin' i buy a new one.
 
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Old 06-27-08, 05:24 AM
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130 it will cost at least 300 for a new 1, If dryer looks good see no advantage to a new one. Dryer still work the same. Keep your vent clean to outside and life will be extended
 
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Old 06-27-08, 10:08 AM
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There is a start switch inside the back of the dryer motor, that is used to help start the motor. Sometimes lint will get into the switch, and not let the start windings connect to the 110 volts. Take the motor/blower out, and blow it out real well using compressed air if you have access to that. Take the pulley shaft end of the motor and try to move it up and down, not end to end. If you notice any movement, the rear bearing has worn out, and when you put a load on it, it will bind up, and not turn on. Either lint in the motor switch or rear bearing probably is the cause.

Himeros
 
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Old 06-28-08, 02:28 PM
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..or idler pulley (belt tensioner) bearing, or roller bearings (if applicable) are gummed up and get gooey and hard to turn after it warms up. You have to disconnect belt and make sure all parts move freely inside. Only if they all do, then you can condemn the motor.
 
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Old 06-28-08, 02:47 PM
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Hot Dam

Replaced the motor and with the general cleaning & inside debris removal it is roaring.

I'll be at your house in an hour for martinis and dinner.

Thanks folks, cya...
 
 

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