No water to icemaker or dispenser

My 4 year old Maytag MSD2651HEB side by side refrigerator abruptly (mid-water glass!) stopped dispensing water, and the water supply to the icemaker also stopped. After reading this forum, I decided it must be the dual water valve so I ordered a new one and replaced it. But the problem wasn't fixed.

There is water to the fridge. The water dispenser makes a humming sound when the lever is depressed and the ice dispenser still works. Both fridge and freezer are at normal temps and the water in the water dispenser reservoir is not frozen, so I can't believe I have a frozen line problem.

Is there a chance that my new dual water valve is defective, or might there be something else going on??

Thanks!!

 

Check the water supply going to the dual water valve. Turn off the water inlet valve, disconnect the water line from that refrigerator dual valve. Get a bucket, put the water line in the bucket, and turn on the water supply valve. After that, replace the valve, or find out why no water is coming out of the supply line.

Himeros

 

There is water to the valve and I have already replaced the valve. Other suggestions??

 

Are saying that the icemaker won't make ice, and the water in the door quit, and both are still not working after you replaced the dual water valve. Or are you saying the water in the door is working, and not the icemaker? I thought you said that both quit, and after replacing the dual valve you had the same problem. Answer this, and I can give you how to test it out.

Himeros

 

After replacing the dual water valve, there is still no water to either icemaker or water dispenser.

 

If you are sure there is good water pressure at the dual valve you replaced, then try this test. You can make a test power cord by taking a 115 volt line cord, crimp on push on connectors, plug this on a coil on that dual water valve. You need to plug this onto the coil before plugging the cord in the outlet, and with the refrigerator not plugged in. Best to use two people for this test. Depending on which coil you test, the water will come out the door, or the icemaker will fill up. The icemaker will fill with water in 7 seconds, so don't leave the test cord on very long. If no water comes out, the water lines are both frozen shut, or you don't really have 115 at the coils under normal use. Many time one or the other may freezer over, but rare that both would do this. Please post back, this is interesting.

himeros

 

Thanks! It will take me a few days to do what you suggested. I also called the parts supplier for the water valve and they are sending me another one; it still seems to me that the new valve may be defective!!

 

just a thought, but did you check ALL the wires and make sure you have a good connection and current(with a meter). sometimes the simplest things cause the biggest problems.
BEEN THERE; DONE THAT!

 

You may be right and the new valve could be bad. This is how I think of it, if both valves on the old one quit, and now both valves on the new one won't work either, it makes me think something else is wrong. The odds of four different water valves going bad in the exact same way is too high for me to compute. Please post back when you test this thing again.

Himeros

 

Thanks for all your help. My nephew and I got down and dirty today. It turns out that while there was water to the fridge intake tubing, there was NOT water to the valve. The line runs up to the filter compartment and back down to the valve, and there is some problem at the filter compartment. This was easy for me to miss since I don't use a filter, and I removed the plug multiple times and felt a "surge" of water when replacing the plug, so thought all was ok there. Once we really manipulated the plug, we got a trickle of water out of the exit tubing (to the valve) intermittently and it finally dawned on us that there was no pump/valve/other mechanism controlling water flow and that water should be pouring out of the tubing when not connected to the intake valve.
Of course we did all this after pulling the valve and testing both the valve and the power to the valve!
The fix for me, since I am so not a filter person, was to clip the line to the filter and bypass it all together. It was apparent that any true fix would involve major dismantling and new parts-- the filter compartment is really hard to get to!
Anyway, thanks again for all your help, and I did learn a little about testing electrical components! Hopefully I'll read a little better next time!!