Whirlpool dryer not heating
#1
07-05-08, 06:14 PM
Join Date: Jul 2008
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Whirlpool dryer not heating
Hi!
I have a Whirlpool electric dryer that is only 2 years old. One day it just stopped drying the clothes. I mean it works, but there is no heat and when I set it on say like 60 min. dry time it will go through the 60 min but will not turn off. How do I fix this problem?
I have a Whirlpool electric dryer that is only 2 years old. One day it just stopped drying the clothes. I mean it works, but there is no heat and when I set it on say like 60 min. dry time it will go through the 60 min but will not turn off. How do I fix this problem?
#2
07-06-08, 04:44 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Please give model #, can help better if we know what type dryer we are working with, Questions not drying (no heat)or heats but doesn't dry, dose timer turn and keep going or dose it stay in one place, Timer dial?
#3
07-06-08, 02:45 PM
Member
Agree with Pugs, need model number.
Not heating: sounds like the heating element may have went out.
Not turning off: Need to know if the dail is turning or not. Can you manually turn the dail and get dryer to shut off?
Sounds like you may two problems, or timer could be bad and effecting both. Get us the model number and we will be able to give you some ideas of what and where to check.
Not heating: sounds like the heating element may have went out.
Not turning off: Need to know if the dail is turning or not. Can you manually turn the dail and get dryer to shut off?
Sounds like you may two problems, or timer could be bad and effecting both. Get us the model number and we will be able to give you some ideas of what and where to check.
#4
07-07-08, 08:15 AM
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The model # is LEB000PQ0 It does not dry at all, and the dial will go through the 60 min cycle but will not turn off. I put a load of clothes in before I went to bed got up in the morning and the dryer was still going (Dial had gone down to the cool down part)and the clothes were still wet.
Thanks for trying to help me
Thanks for trying to help me
#5
07-07-08, 09:08 AM
Member
Tried to pull up the diagrams for your dryer using the model number you supplied....wasn't able to find anything. Please ensure the number is correct:
Look at following areas for the model number
On Plate In Door Well
Side Or Bottom Of Cabinet
Cabinet Frame Door Open
Back Upper Left Cabinet
Inside Of Door
Starting to sound like your timer is bad and is advancing through the cycles, but not making contact when needed. However, I would look for any disconnected/broken wiring and use a ohm meter to ensure wires have continuity to the timer. First and farmost, unplug the dryer before doing anything!!!!! If you are familiar with the use of a ohm meter, there should be a wiring diagram on the back panel of the dryer which would help you trace the wiring. Otherwise, will need the correct model number to see if we can pull something up on our end and maybe walk you through it.
Look at following areas for the model number
On Plate In Door Well
Side Or Bottom Of Cabinet
Cabinet Frame Door Open
Back Upper Left Cabinet
Inside Of Door
Starting to sound like your timer is bad and is advancing through the cycles, but not making contact when needed. However, I would look for any disconnected/broken wiring and use a ohm meter to ensure wires have continuity to the timer. First and farmost, unplug the dryer before doing anything!!!!! If you are familiar with the use of a ohm meter, there should be a wiring diagram on the back panel of the dryer which would help you trace the wiring. Otherwise, will need the correct model number to see if we can pull something up on our end and maybe walk you through it.
#7
07-08-08, 09:53 AM
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Well it would help if I put in the right model # it is LEB6000PQ0 I don't know how to use a OHM meter but I can learn I have taken the back off and found the wiring diagram
#8
07-08-08, 02:56 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
UNPLUG DRYER FIRST
Did you take back or the panel at control panel? you need to be in lower panel. You should only need a (conitnunity) spelling wrong meter. You have the wire digram check to see if you have a circuit from the top thermostat to lower heater. Make sure you try each terminal on thermostat and heater. Usual problem is top thermostat (high limit) or heater element.
Did you take back or the panel at control panel? you need to be in lower panel. You should only need a (conitnunity) spelling wrong meter. You have the wire digram check to see if you have a circuit from the top thermostat to lower heater. Make sure you try each terminal on thermostat and heater. Usual problem is top thermostat (high limit) or heater element.
#9
07-08-08, 04:36 PM
You using the "auto dry" cycle w/ cool down?, or the timed dry cycle that has the numbers of minutes on it?
If in "auto dry", there is a resistor (in the control panel by the timer) that if it goes out the clothes will not dry(no heat) and this affects the advance of the timer. In my experience, it does not advance at all. But, if you are in that auto cycle, I would not overlook to at least test that resistor. Often the wiring diagram shows the resistor's ohms that it should have.
If that is not it, it sounds like something burned in the timer to not be advancing all the way, irregardless of the heat issue.
And just to cover the bases, in case of something unusual - a dryer can run, but not heat, if say you lost 240 volts and only have 120 volts. A common malady when people had fuses, rather than a circuit breaker, and one fuse blew.
Burned wires inside are also something to look for. Common to occur down near the heating element - between there and a thermostat. Whirlpool even makes a premade jumper wire (at least they used to for the older machines), between the two, to replace the burned wire, with the connectors already on them. I've had to replace sections of burned wires quite a few times on dryers.
And, is your controls mechanical or digital, being 2 years old? Because then there would be a 'board' involved.
If in "auto dry", there is a resistor (in the control panel by the timer) that if it goes out the clothes will not dry(no heat) and this affects the advance of the timer. In my experience, it does not advance at all. But, if you are in that auto cycle, I would not overlook to at least test that resistor. Often the wiring diagram shows the resistor's ohms that it should have.
If that is not it, it sounds like something burned in the timer to not be advancing all the way, irregardless of the heat issue.
And just to cover the bases, in case of something unusual - a dryer can run, but not heat, if say you lost 240 volts and only have 120 volts. A common malady when people had fuses, rather than a circuit breaker, and one fuse blew.
Burned wires inside are also something to look for. Common to occur down near the heating element - between there and a thermostat. Whirlpool even makes a premade jumper wire (at least they used to for the older machines), between the two, to replace the burned wire, with the connectors already on them. I've had to replace sections of burned wires quite a few times on dryers.
And, is your controls mechanical or digital, being 2 years old? Because then there would be a 'board' involved.
