GE Dryer - No heat


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Old 07-19-08, 08:58 AM
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GE Dryer - No heat

I have a GE Dryer Model: DBXR453ET5WW

The elements are not getting hot? The Vents are clear, everything else seems to work fine but I'm getting no heat.

I tried to open up the dryer to look at the elements but I can't figure out how to open it up
 
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Old 07-19-08, 09:37 AM
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Ge Dryer - No Heat - Update

I go it open and checked the following continuities:

Element- < 1 ohm

Saftey Left - < 1 ohm

Thermo Hi-Limit Right - < 1 ohm

Control Inlet - white to blue - < 1 ohm

Control Inlet - blue to blue - 9k ohm
 
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Old 07-19-08, 11:21 AM
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Out of curiousity, your dryer run off circuit breaker or fuses? A dryer can run, you know, if one leg of power is out. Like you have 120 power, but not 240 power, as you should have.

Now that you did all that ohms testing, you need to obviously see if you have 240 volts at your recepticle, for starters, and then into the dryer itself. You should have 240 volts when contacting your test probes to both element terminals, or, if you have 3 element terminals, it be between any two, I believe (if on high heat).

If you have the type of dryer where the element(s) ring around the inside center rear of the dryer, to get your probes on those terminals (especially models where they are down lower in a recess) when the dryer runs, can be hard to do, and I greatly advise caution.
 
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Old 07-19-08, 12:39 PM
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It is on circuit breakers and I have 235 vac.

It is the type with a ring in back of the tub. I guess I would have to take the tub out to test this. With the tub in and turning I can't even get to the thermosters. I'd like taking the tub out as a last resort, are there any other things to check?

I ran it and measured the voltage coming out of the switches and it is 117 vac going to the Thermosters and element so it appears to be good to that point.

Any other ideas before I pull the tub?

BTW, I just re-did the continuity check of the element and both legs are around 10 ohms.
 
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Old 07-19-08, 12:50 PM
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You need 240 at the elements, not 117. Of course you need to hold one probe on each terminal. Not on one terminal to ground because then all you WOULD get is your 117.

Can you see the terminals back there? I have never had to pull a tub (drum) for testing. But, if that's the only way you can do it safely.......

The door switch will have to be activated, you know, also.

.............

I hurried up and came back here because I just thought of something: You had all those 1 ohm readings. Do you know enough about digital ohm meters that they can say 1 ohm on them before you test. It seems awfully coincidental you'd wind up with exactly 1 ohm on all those tests. Does the meter flinch to other numbers or fractions and then return to 1.0? If, so, then it indeed is 1 ohm. But if the meter never flinches and stays on 1, then you have an open circuit! Because of this, some people believe especially beginners should use the needle display type analog meter so you can actually see what is happening. I have both.
 

Last edited by ecman51; 07-19-08 at 12:58 PM. Reason: added last paragraph
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Old 07-19-08, 01:29 PM
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I was using a digital meter so I just got out the analog one and it is 0 ohms across all thermosters. About 13 ohms along each leg of the element.

I just took the tub out. I get 117 vac to ground from each of the element terminals, is this correct?
 
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Old 07-19-08, 01:32 PM
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Yes, but you also need to test across the terminals to see if you get 240 about.

And by 0 ohms, you mean that the needle goes from the left when off, all the way to the right to where 0 is? If so, good, then yes all those devices are closed which is good. 13 ohms resistance sounds like that should be a good element. But still, do that volt test.

So now it appears we have to see why then your power is not making it there. Burned wire? Bad timer?

I have run into dryer timers so easy that they can be taken apart, like they just snap apart and inside you can see all the points, and what the condition of them is and decide whether to buy a new timer or file down the arced ones.
 
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Old 07-19-08, 01:46 PM
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Across the terminals is 0 vac????? Now I'm really confused. What am I missing here?

I put it on "fluff" which should have no heat but I still read 117 vac to ground.

So I suppose I have an open on the L-2 leg. The only thing in that leg is called the "motor switch" but the motor is running as is the blower. (I had to prop the idler pully since there is a switch there that kills eveything if there is no tension, i.e. a broken belt).
 
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Old 07-19-08, 01:56 PM
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Dead element I bet. Redo your ohms test with at least one element terminal wire disconnected, to eliminate a backfeedthrough the wiring.

Fluff probably only gives 120v. High heat should be 240. Set it to that.

[Be careful with all tests when you are first dealing with voltage, and then to ohms, for your own sake and for your test meter's sake!]

...........

I have to leave soon. Our back and forth has picked up in speed and it be good if you first acknowledge my post, and then say soemthing like you will go and do the test and come back and let me know, so I know. I have to go shopping ( think White Chicks) .
 

Last edited by ecman51; 07-19-08 at 02:02 PM. Reason: added last paragraph
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Old 07-19-08, 02:05 PM
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With the element isolated each leg is 19 ohms (that's what the spec is).

I did not pull the leads off the thermosters to check the resistance but looking at the schematic I don't see a problem by not doing that.

I took the timer apart and checked and cleaned the contacts, none we too bad. I'm 99% sure I got it back together correctly (there isn't much to it).

I really appreciate your help!!! I'm headed to a shower and out to dinner. This is ending up being tomorrow's project .

Any additional thoughts / suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 07-19-08, 02:15 PM
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Did you get 240 volts????

If I were you, I would remove a wire from each stat just to be sure.

Enjoy the night. Clear the mind.

I'm trying to think quickly by instinct almost, but I am wondering if you have to rehook up or bypass that tensioner pulley safety switch to complete yor 240?
 
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Old 07-19-08, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by timmor View Post
Across the terminals is 0 vac????? Now I'm really confused. What am I missing here?
Sorry. 0? Then one leg is dead. Burned wire or loose wire at terminal block in the back rear, or open stat (disconnect wire from each to be sure even if maybe you don't have to, just to be 100% sure) and look for any bad wire/connection. Find out which one has no power to it by testing for 120v at each connection to ground, then you'll know which it is, then trace back. This should be elementary. And you sound like you know basically what you are doing, so I have my money on you.
 
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Old 07-19-08, 06:08 PM
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ecman51 covered it all. I would go back and start all over.
unplug dryer
You have it apart already so go back and check from first thermostat through heater should have a complete circuit (no opens) You said it ran but no heat right. if that's the case than plug it in and check to see if you have 0 volts across timer heater contacts (usually large wires) than go from timer to each thermostat's, Anyplace you you get 240 you have a open circuit and there is your bad part. be careful 240 kills I like leaving one side of volt meter on timer lug and take other lead and check each point in circuit
 
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Old 07-20-08, 12:56 PM
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When you only work on these kind of appliances once every 4-5 years (when one breaks) you lose your troubleshooting edge!

I had taken the timer apart and cleaned contacts, it looked fine plus and all the thermosters seemed to be ok.

Finally I decided that I'd take the schematic and just start checking continuity from the plug all the way to the heater. When I got to the timer there was no continuity from the line input through to the line output terminals !! When I wiggled the terminal I'd get brief continuity I re-opened the timer and sure enough the connection of the heater contacts to the post are deteriorated!

I should have looked for this when I originally took the timer apart, it would have saved me for taking the whole darn dryer apart!

I'll order a new timer tomorrow.

Thank you ecman51' for your patience and help and also to pugsl for his input. Have a great Summer!
 
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Old 07-20-08, 01:27 PM
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Don't feel so bad. At least you did find it, by your very self.

I know what you mean about the time between repairs business. That is why I like to have appliances break down frequently so I do keep my edge.
 
 

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