Whirlpool dryer wont start


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Old 08-24-08, 03:00 PM
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Whirlpool dryer wont start

Model # LER7646EQ2 It was working fine, took out some dry clothes and put in the wet clothes and hit the start button and nothing. Dryer has power. I can here the start switch click as I push the start button and I can here the switch click when I open the door. There is no noise like the motor is even trying to start and no heat. I can move the tub freely.

I have no ohm meter to check voltages. possibly just the switch gone bad?
 
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Old 08-24-08, 04:08 PM
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A click sound means nothing. (A hum sound would be entirely different) You may simply be hearing spring-loaded contacts opening and closing.

If you took the clothes out of the dryer before the dryer had time to go into a cooldown mode, maybe high heat rose and tripped the possibly already weak thermal fuse.

You really do need a multimeter to diagnose not just dryers, but SO many things that literally could save you if not hundreds maybe even thousands of dollars over your lifetime, if you are handy.

Unless you can hear something more than I realize about that click sound, you really need to be checking your main fuses or circuit breaker first, to be sure.

I'd hate to waste my time opening up a machine if I only had the hope of finding something burned, let's say, without having a multimeter in hand.
 
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Old 08-24-08, 04:22 PM
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Yes I should get an OHM meter, but the circuit did not trip and the dryer does have power (light comes on) It's a fairly new house (10 years) so I don't think it will be a power issue. I am going to pick up a new thermo fuse tomorrow though and see where that gets me, as the dryer is also 10 years old.

Now does anyone know how to take the lint trap apart so I can really get in there and clean it out?
 
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Old 08-24-08, 05:23 PM
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I'd invest the money in a multimeter, first. That is what -I- would do. Do you realize all the stuff those things can test that can save you from having specialists come to your house?

Do you have the lint screen located in the door, or the kind at the top rear of the machine?
 
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Old 08-24-08, 06:51 PM
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It's the kind at the top. Looks like I need to remove it from the lint motor and two screws on top and that should get it out. Just need to find my 1/4 socket.
 
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Old 08-25-08, 03:46 AM
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UNPLUG DRYER FIRST
Take off back and most of what you need to check are there. Look for a white 2 wire 2 inch long thermo fuse. Ohm this first should nave a circuit there ( no opens) Let us know what you find out. Turn your breaker on and off a couple of times. Sometimes 1 side will pop.
 
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Old 08-25-08, 06:47 AM
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well, its not either of the fuses. I took in the thermo cutoff fuse and they tested it and it was fine. I bypassed the thermofuse in the heating element and it still would not start. I switched the circuit breaker a couple times and still nothing.

Where to check next?

If I hold down the star switch, I can hear a hum coming from the start switch and a little vibration in my fingers, but I do not hear any noise from anywhere else (like the motor) and again, no heat or anything comes on.
 

Last edited by grimmster; 08-25-08 at 07:14 AM.
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Old 08-25-08, 04:04 PM
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Check the voltage to machine. Should have 240. Open consul there is a wiring diagram there. Does the drum turn by your hand? If it turns is there some resistance to the turning (normal) if not check belt.[
 
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Old 08-25-08, 06:28 PM
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Dryer I recently worked on I got lucky. I was actualy able to remove the start switch that is mounted at the motor (not that other start button switch located on the console). It was held on by 2 screws. Once I pulled off all the wires on the spades and marked where each went, I was able to remove 2 screws holding it to the motor. Then it came apart in halves and inside I was able to file arced points with a fine file. Dryer now works. More often than not they do no just sell that switch. You have to buy the entire motor.

Another suspect area a person can sometimes look at is inside the timer [where there are usually quite a number of contact points (along witrh gears that have to mate up and cams that have to have the points riding on them just right. ), some of which can get noticeably arced], if you have one that comes apart. But you have to be real careful with this as it can be like opening up a watch. I have done this, but I am afraid to advise someone who has little experience lets say in doing lots of mechanical repairs, because if you botch it up, you might be done for, if you do not possess lots of analytical and mechanical experience as to how it can go back together, what kind of locking clips are available if one breaks, etc.. Then you have to buy a new timer, and I'd hate to feel responsible for that, especially if the problem were not in the timer.

That dryer I worked on also had me taking the timer apart, after I had to break open a retainer clip on the shaft and get a replacement e-clip from the auto parts store, and prying apart welded contacts and filing those, and reassembling. (But I am always doing some crazy thing that is sort of surgical, it seems.)

In reality though, such work is likely out of the scope for someone who does not possess a test meter, as that right there shows likely not very much experience in doing a lot of delicate or exacting small repair work.
 

Last edited by ecman51; 08-25-08 at 06:39 PM. Reason: added last paragraph
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Old 08-26-08, 05:14 AM
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I have a working multimeter now (and I owned one, just takes button batteries and nowhere does it tell me what type, so it's basically worthless now) but anyway, the probes on this are not long enough to actually check in the outlet, should I plug the dryer in and take the reading from where the cord plugs into the dryer?

And I'm really trying to figure out how to remove the panels on this dryer so I can get to the motor! The top does not seem to want to come off.

And the tub does spin with some resistance so I think the belt is fine, but once I get the panels off, I can tell for sure.

I'll give myself till tomorrow night to diagnose myself, otherwise I think we are looking at repairman bill (or if wife gets her way a new dryer) so keep any ideas coming!!
 
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Old 08-26-08, 11:46 AM
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Yes, plug the cord in almost all the way but leave some of the prongs showing a little so you can touch your voltmeter probes to them.

Dryers come apart different says. Some that have only one front panel and no screws showing on the front require you simply slip a putty knife in that top-of-the-front-panel horizontal seam, in from each side a few inches, and push to release these springclips as you lift up the top at the same time.

With some, there are two screws at the bottom that first have to come off and then you pull the bottom toward you quite a bit and then pull down at the same time.

With some dryers that have the top lint screen - there are 2 additional screws under that little door for the lint screen, that have to also come out, to raise the top.

With some dryers you have to slide the top panel forward some and then lift, to release the top from the clips.

With some *2* front panel units, you have to perhaps pop off a bottom panel, then expose screws to the upper front panel.

With many of the dryers, once you manage to raise the top by any of the necessary methods - to get off the front panel, you sometimes have to unscrew a couple hex screws that join the two vertical side seams to the front panel and these screws are located down that seam a few inches on each side.

Maybe a mod here can help if model; number provided to know what kind you have and how to open it up, so you can get started on your little project.
 
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Old 08-26-08, 02:25 PM
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UNPLUG DRYER FIRST

Take out lint screen and remove 2 screws there. Take a stiff putty knife and slide it between the top and front panel near the side and pry up on each side. Top will pop off clips holding down.(may have to use a little force) lift top up and lean back. look inside at front panel and find 2 screws holding on (near top on sides) pull up on front panel and will come off. Careful of wires to door unplug wires or just put it to the side. Hope this helps
almost all the components that you need to check are behind back panel/ both thermostat, heater and thermo fuse are there.
 
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Old 08-26-08, 04:19 PM
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OK.

Power reads at 244 volts, power is good. thermo fuses cutoff and one on heater check as good. I'll try taking the panels off and see if I can get to the motor, but what should I look for once there?
 
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Old 08-26-08, 04:41 PM
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Oh. I did not realize the whole tub would just come off after taking the front panel off.

I think I am getting to my 'better not continue' point. I hate to get it all apart, cannot figure out what is wrong and have to pay someone to come fix my repair, that's the worst.

Unless someone has something I should really check out, or this tub is really easy to remove and put back, I might just have to make a phone call, but at least I can let them know what I have checked (not that it will matter)

PS

Actually I want to check the fuses again on my own. What setting on the multimeter should I use to check those?
 

Last edited by grimmster; 08-26-08 at 04:42 PM. Reason: added a ps
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Old 08-26-08, 04:58 PM
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Drum is very easy to reinstall. Before you take off belt look to see how it's treaded. In back of dryer a thermostat is on top of heater should read 0 ohms (most likely thermostat to go bad)(Hi limit one) lower heater another thermostat 0 ohms heater should have a circuit but will show some resistance( not sure of reading but must have a closed circuit.) Thermo fuse 0 ohms. Motor usually hums and and the drum won't turn if bad. Read back I think Ecman told about switch on motor he repaired.
 
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Old 08-26-08, 06:35 PM
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Here is the multimeter I am borrowing. http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/dt830bf.htm
what setting to check the fuses?

I wish it was easier to get to the motor, like the washer is, but since I need to almost disassemble the entire dryer, unless I know for sure its the motor (or the switch on the motor) Just not sure i want to risk taking it all apart.

I did get the lint pipe out and there was a ton of lint stuck to the bottom, so at least things are getting cleaned up if nothing else.

So tell me the settings on the multimeter and I'll check those again. Is there anything else I can try to bypass (like the timer) to rule those out?
 
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Old 08-27-08, 03:44 AM
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use the 200 ohm scale for everything, If the funny looking arrow next to it is a beeper when you put leads together use that. Should get a beep on all of parts we talked about. All should have a closed circuit.
 
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Old 08-27-08, 05:12 AM
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hmmm. All three show up as 00.8 ohms, but by-passing each one gives me the same results, no working dryer.
 
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Old 08-27-08, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by grimmster View Post
Is there anything else I can try to bypass (like the timer) to rule those out?
THAT is a very good question. I'd imagine you can. I've never had to do it. But I'm sure this could expedite and verify diagnosis. You'd have to check wiring diagram and be able to understand it, to do it though.
 
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Old 08-27-08, 05:34 PM
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repair man came. It's a bad timer. white to tan is open. Will update when the new part is in.
 
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Old 08-29-08, 02:20 PM
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New timer is in and dryer is working. Old timer is rattling. sounds like a broken piece. will take apart and see what broke.

Thanks for all the suggestions on things to check!
 
 

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