Whirlpool Elec Dryer---no Heat

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  #1  
Old 08-31-08, 11:41 AM
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Whirlpool Elec Dryer---no Heat

hi. i have a whirlpool electric dryer. LER5636KQ0. dryer produces no heat. the element is reading 8.9 ohms with dryer unplugged. is this a good reading? no current when the dryer is running. should i buy a new element?

thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 08-31-08, 12:17 PM
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8.9 ohms is fine.

Check you are getting 240V at the outlet first.

Check the thermostats. There should be one at the heater, and a couple by the door. They should read zero ohms at room temperature.

Check to see the timer and motor switches are zero ohms when closed (the motor may be harder to check if enclosed)
 
  #3  
Old 08-31-08, 12:45 PM
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i have 240 at outlet, 240 at rear of dryer.

dryer starts fine, plenty of air coming out of exhaust. i see 2 thermostats around the heating element. cant find any more. how many thermostats are generally on a dryer?
can i send pics on here?
 
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Old 08-31-08, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by classicsat View Post
Check you are getting 240V at the outlet first.
mas,

Be sure to not presume since the drum turns, that you must be getting the 240. The drum turns on 120, but the element will not even come on at all, on 120.
 
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Old 08-31-08, 01:07 PM
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3 or 4, counting the thermal fuse, that often looks like a miniature stat. Don't you have a wiring diagram in your control panel? Check it. Also look for loose or burned wires especially at terminal block and down by area of element.
 
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Old 08-31-08, 01:12 PM
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this is what i find strange. the stat at the top of the heater casing has 2 terminals and 2 wires attahed to it. the stat at the bottom has 2 terminals, but only one red wire is connected to it. is this normal? yes i have a diagram and i will check it out. thanks. 240 at wall, 240 at dryer terminal.
 
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Old 08-31-08, 01:23 PM
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Better check the diagram to be sure. But I have never seen 2 spades but only one wire connected to it. Not for a stat. Maybe better see if a wire fell off and is hiding on you amongst the others.

Oh. And I'd be afraid to touch that dryer that way, with it plugged in - until you get to the bottom of this. You may have live 120 dangling somewheres down there waiting to touch metal on you.
 
  #8  
Old 08-31-08, 01:35 PM
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i have 245.9v at the dryer terminal. i have 122.3v at the start button. should there be 240 at the start button? dont see any dangling wires, but the lower element thermo looks like it was tampered with in the past. this dryer is used and it never really dried very well. the diagram shows one red going to the bottom thermo on the element casing. (along with an orange wire). all of the wiring looks great. everything is clean.....just not getting heat. i cant really get access to the motor unless i really tear this thing apart. i will look at the diagram more. thanks
 
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Old 08-31-08, 02:04 PM
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If you have 240 at the element terminals, you should be getting heat if indeed your element is good. (120 is right for start button) Retry your ohms test with one of those wires that's plugged into your element, disconnected. Of course, unplug the dryer first.Then touch the element prongs by putting one test lead on one element prong and the other test lead on the other element prong.

The other stuff regarding that stat and wire do not matter right now. Not if someone else tampered with it and you are certain no live hot wire is hanging down there.

The main thing is that you have 240 at the element which means it should get hot if the element is good. I'm guessing now that it is not.

I'd still would want to return the dryer to how it should be wired though, for possible safety reasons. But as stated, this is not your present problem at hand.
 
  #10  
Old 08-31-08, 03:16 PM
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element readings;

dryer unplugged 9.5 ohms
power on, dryer not running 10.2 ohms
power on, dryer running, 177 ohms


thanks ecman !!!!
 
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Old 08-31-08, 03:20 PM
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i do believe that the dryer is wired properly. i dont want you to think otherwise. when i took the rear off of the dryer, the lower element thermo was kinda cocked into position with only one screw holding it in. as i said before, the wires are all clean and seem untampered with.....the only thing that i noticed was the lower thermo was kinda "dangling" in position. i have secured that with another screw. have absolutely no current at heater element.
 
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Old 08-31-08, 03:33 PM
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Here is a link to your machine
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...pn46Q**.shcapp
Look under bulkhead and parts 9, 5 are thermostats. ) ohms usually the top one is the one that goes bad. Look for burnt wires a terminal block. Your heater ohmed right. Other thing that could go bad is timer but put that far down list.
 
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Old 09-01-08, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by mas19606 View Post
thanks ecman !!!!
No. I actually misinterpretted in my mind that in your post #8 first sentence you meant you were getting 240+ volts at the element, not just teminals. You can tell that by my first sentence response in my post #9. And subsequent advice, all hinged upon the false assumption.

So now we all really know the elemnt is good - but one of your 120 volt legs is down.

You need to heed testing advice from post #2, and determine which of the 120 power legs to your element is not working - and trace back through every stat, connection, MAYBE timer, to determine where the power no longer exists.

To do this on dryers is way more elementary, - as you can actually see where all the wires go - than searching for such failure on a car.


!!!Although with 120 and 240 volts in the dryer you have to be extremetly cautious during all your tests and always be aware of what you want your meter set at when testing back and forth between ohms and then volts, as it is easy to wreck your meter if you shift to test volts and you forgot the meter is still set to ohms. Also you do not want to have dangling live hot wires, while testing, to come in contact with metal!!!
 
  #14  
Old 09-01-08, 12:01 PM
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A thermostat should have two terminals, and each terminal should have a wire on it. If a terminal has no wire on it ,ther must be a wire somewhere that is attached to nothing.
 
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Old 09-01-08, 12:07 PM
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Lower thermostat has a medal lug that connects to heater element. Replacement will come with a wire to change this.
 
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Old 09-02-08, 01:55 PM
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ok guys....thanks for hanging in there.

at one of the element terminals, i am getting about 88 volts. (orange wire from timer)

same with the other terminal....about 88 volts. (thicker red wire from timer)

i have a digital smart meter and it took a couple of minutes for the voltage to climb up to 88....started around 45v and slowly counted its way up to 88. havent seen that before, it usually just reads the voltage right away.
 
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Old 09-02-08, 03:28 PM
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You have to be careful doing this. You really need to unplug one of the two element wires [with the dryer plug disconnected, til you are sure the wire is clear of hitting any metal, including any force when you touch your meter against the hanging wire] when testing the wires - because with 240 you can get 120 backfeed when one of the 120 power legs goes out.
 
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Old 09-02-08, 04:00 PM
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tried what you said. got zero volts with power on. got 0 volts on both terminals. i guess when one or the other is unplugged, you get no voltage.

with the power on, dryer running, i get 121 volts at one terminal and 122 volts at the other terminal. but the element doesnt get hot. i think i am getting closer. i think some previous readings were incorrect (hey, im a rookie)
 
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Old 09-02-08, 04:12 PM
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I doubt you have 0 volts on both legs at once. Not with an 88 reading between the 2. You have to test each element wire by touching one voltmeter test lead to the wire and the other to metal on the dryer (ground), on a 120 volt test. Sorry.
 
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Old 09-02-08, 04:54 PM
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im not really following that test. with the red wire disconnected from the terminal, i get 123 volts with the dryer running. with the orange wire disconnected, i get 0 volts with the dryer running. when i plug the orange wire back into the terminal, then it reads 124 volts. so with the dryer running, i an getting 243v at the heating element. should i remove the heating element and inspect it?
 
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Old 09-02-08, 05:08 PM
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That makes no sense. With the orange wire at 0 volts disconnected, that shows me right there that you just found your bad circuit; the bad 120 volt leg.

Did you really put those wires back on and test between the 2 wires (the orange and red) to get 243? Or, did you presume you have 243 volts by adding up the current from the red and orange wires?
 
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Old 09-02-08, 05:28 PM
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Anxiously waiting for answer as you show no PM ability and I have to soon get off the board for the night. We are very close in resolving this if you answer my last question. Need to know if you derived at 243 volts by addition?, or if you actually got that reading on your meter at the 2 element terminals after you put those wires back on.
 
  #23  
Old 09-02-08, 05:30 PM
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with the dryer running, there is 123 volts at the red terminal. and 122 volts at the orange wire. so that is 245 volts, right?
 
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Old 09-02-08, 05:36 PM
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No. You cheated! You can't add voltage to think you get 240. That is not the way it works. With 240 testing (by only testing the wires individually while hooked up to a common resistor), you can get backfeeds from the good 120 back through the dead 120 (which is now actually 0 volts!)

Your orange circuit is dead! Now you know how to trace back and look at every stat, every connection, every wire section, along that route on back, to see where you have lost 120. There.

Keep us updated. You should now be able to find where it went dead.

..................................

I used the term "backfeed". In actuality, in your case you are picking up 120 volts as it enters the element and also again after it leaves the element, with your test. But when testing to see if you really have 240, you have to put your voltmeter test leads to each 120 wire. One test lead on one wire, and one test lead on the other wire (and not to ground, in this case) and see what it says.
 

Last edited by ecman51; 09-02-08 at 05:44 PM. Reason: added last paragraph
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Old 09-02-08, 05:41 PM
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so by using the diagram, i can see where the orange wire goes, and at every connection, i test for voltage? sounds hard. but i will def check it out. thanks so much for your help. i didnt understand the back feed thing until now.(i just added them up!) i love to learn new stuff and you definately helped me out. i will proceed and conquer this !!!!

thanks again for your time !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old 09-02-08, 05:51 PM
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And you will! I have faith in you. It is usually pretty elementary, as you can see quite well, if you access enough places, where the wires all go. Each stat the current passes through needs to be "closed"(that means current can pass into one terminal and out the other side). If you find any "open"(that means that current is entering the one side of say a stat, but then does not come back out the other terminal), you have then found your problem. But if the problem involves the timer, you will need to consult your wiring diagram, or you or someone here will have to post the picture on the board here.
 
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Old 09-02-08, 05:59 PM
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on the diagram, it shows the orange wire going back through a resistor, straight to the timer switch. what is this "resistor"?
 
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Old 09-02-08, 06:14 PM
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ok

i have 122 volts going into the resistor
36 volts coming out

and with the dryer running, the heat shrink wrapping gets pretty warm......
 
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Old 09-02-08, 06:27 PM
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The resistor is used for auto dry cycle. That allows that cycle to act like it has the brains to advance the timer, not based on time, but based on how well the clothes are drying according to how the operating temperature stat is cycling on and off. It takes longer for the cycle to stop heating, when fresh wet clothes are thrown in the dryer, so the dryer keeps running and not advancing the timer until the clothes warmed up enough to shut off the stat, and then the timer advances some. Then it heats more with the timer stuck in the newly advanced spot for a while, - etc., etc. - Until the clothes are finally dry, and the auto timer finally shuts off.

These resistors can be tested in 'ohms" by unplugging the dryer and then taking one of the resistor wires off. You then set your meter to ohms using a scale that is higher than the anticpated reading. You test between the two terminals on the resistor. Not the wires. And not from resistor to ground. As stated: Reading is taken between the 2 resistor terminals.These resistors I know are more than 1500 and less than 4000 ohms, but I can't remember what some of those exact numbers are. But that alone should help you.

But if this resistor is bad, I believe you still should be getting heat in "timed cycle". If you are not getting heat in any cycle (OH! DOES your dryer even have a "timed cycle", with minutes that show?), you have to start considering the timer if any stat along the route is closed (if they are along that orange wire circuit route - or are those stats along the red wire route?).
 

Last edited by ecman51; 09-02-08 at 06:39 PM. Reason: added more
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Old 09-02-08, 06:32 PM
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thanks ecman!!

my diagram shows the resistor as 5000 ohms.

i just read that resistors produce heat. so the heat and the voltage drop dont really diagnose anything, right? because the resistor is doing its job.


i will test for ohms tomorrow.
thanks for hanging in there with me.
 
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Old 09-02-08, 06:42 PM
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i have automatic dry and timed dry.
the stats are along the red wire route.
the orange wire goes from timer to resistor to heating element.
 

Last edited by mas19606; 09-02-08 at 06:44 PM. Reason: added more
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Old 09-02-08, 06:43 PM
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Yes. Do ohms test. Til tomorrow. And always be thinking to be careful when working with electricity.
 
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Old 09-02-08, 06:49 PM
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If you have "timed dry", I do not believe the resistor will be the cause for your no heat then. Tell me all that is along that orange wire route and if it all has checked out good for 120 volts back to the timer. Because then we may be getting into the timer itself. You may have to look at wiring diagram to figure out how to bypass, with a jumper, the timer.
 
  #34  
Old 09-02-08, 06:54 PM
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the orange starts at the timer, goes through resistor, straight to heating element. thats what i get from my diagram. .

so if i jump from TM to OR, i should get heat?
maybe the timer is stuck on TM to WB?


ill have to try it tomorrow. just put everything away.
 
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Old 09-02-08, 06:54 PM
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Okay. I just seen your "added more". Well, test the resistor for the heck of it. But now it's looking like the timer is the culprit. And they do go bad too where they no longer send current on it's way to the element.

Some dryer timers come out and apart fairly easily. And if you see burned points inside, you can file them to get by for a while. I have done that. But you have to be cautious taking them apart.
 
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Old 09-03-08, 06:03 AM
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Make sure in your testing that you have power coming -IN- to the timer to rule out some bad connection before the timer.

If you do have power in, but not leaving to that orange wire, then I am afraid your timer contacts inside are bad. It would not be the timer clock. It wouid be the main contact points inside that are arc-burned-pitted.

Go ahead and do your resistance test. As I said, I doubt that is it, but you may as well become satisfied.

Then if you are certain it has to be the timer, you'd have nothing to lose by taking it apart, if you can. Points inside resemble older car's distributor points or points on a pressure switch for a well. Can be filed with fine file. They file very quickly. Try to curve them like they are when new. I did one recently and college kids are back now using dryer like crazy, so we'll have to see how long it lasts for.

Dryers are one appliance, I have found, that it makes economic sense to keep throwing parts at it, once you are proficient at change-outs.

I have to go to work soon to get an apartment ready for some guy by noon today.
 
  #37  
Old 09-03-08, 02:19 PM
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there is power at all terminals at the rear of the timer.
should i cut open the heat shrinked covering on the resistor? test it and tape it back up?

this dryer was bought used.
it is fairly new but never really got all that hot. had to run dryer 2 or 3 times to get the clothes dry. makes me think that the owner already opened up the timer, filed the points, and sold it to me. i got about 6 months out of it. but i would rather fix it myself for 80 bucks than pay a repair guy at least 160 to fix it. plus, im learning about my dryer. thanks for your help ecman. send me your address and ill get you a case of beer !!!

mark
 
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Old 09-03-08, 02:52 PM
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i just tried to jump the timer and i heard a pop. lost power to dryer. no voltage at start button. 70 volts now going in to the orange wire resistor. 244 volts at rear of dryer.

DARNIT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old 09-03-08, 03:25 PM
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reset breakers of replace fuses again
 
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Old 09-03-08, 03:51 PM
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With dryer unplugged do an ohms test across the 2 terminals of your thermal fuse in your dryer. You should have complete continuity. Let's hope that you do not - as it is better to have sent 240 into that circuit and fried IT, rather than something more expensive.

You must have jumpered from leg 1(L1)to leg 2(L2), is my guess, and made 240 volts on a 120 volt circuit. You want to try to bypass the timer if you can figure out, how off the diagram. You cannot be joining wires L1 with L2!

Now I'm getting afraid to advise you any more. We know that your original problem, the orange wire leg withOUT the stats on it, and really think the timer is at fault.

But now we have this new issue on our hands. You don't want to invest in a timer right this minute until you find out where the power got lost. Hopefully it was not the motor -and is the thermal fuse.
 
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