GE refrigerator not staying cool


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Old 09-01-08, 09:11 PM
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GE refrigerator not staying cool

I have a GE GSH22JFRE WW
The refrigerator was not cool but the freezer was. I read the manual and it suggested that the little hole at the bottom of the freezer was cloged and that I should clean it with baking soda. I did and by the time the whole process was done the entire fridge/ freezer defrosted. I plugged it back in everything worked for about 3 days.
Now neither the freezer or the fridge are very cold. Everything in the freezer has melted and the ice cubes are water. When I look at the back of the freezer I see frost built up and I never noticed this before.

I read this thread:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=212796
and even though it's not the same model the situation is similar so I would guess that it is the heater? Is this right or is it something else?

The unit isn't even 4yrs old!

I'm looking at the diagram on GE's site:
http://genet.geappliances.com/IPCNet...038395.p03.pdf
the heater is #230 - is it easy to get out or as hard as it looks???



any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Old 09-02-08, 11:46 AM
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The frost build up can be any of three things. The defrost device is not going into the defrost cycle, defrost heaters bad, or the limit device that turns off the defrost cycle when the frost has melted. You may want to remove the inside panel from the freezer back wall, defrost with a hair dryer, so it will work again and trouble shoot the problem a day later. That way, you can see the parts you may need to locate.

Himeros
 
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Old 09-02-08, 04:05 PM
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Does the compressor run?, and also the fan inside the freezer?, (and if you have coils underneath the fridge there will be a fan down there as well) - are all these things running at once? They should be, when the fridge is trying to cool.

If you are not sure, because it is not running right now, and want to temporarily test it out, - turn up the refrigerator setting to maximum cool number, and/or open the refrigerator section door for a bit until the compressor kicks on. Then check those fans.
 
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Old 09-02-08, 08:05 PM
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I'm going to check these things out and get back to you guys

thanks for the help
 
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Old 09-04-08, 12:25 PM
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Ok I was wrong it never fully defrosted.

But I just took the back wall off and fully defrosted the coils with a hair drier. I plugged it back in and I feel cool air blowing.
Without taking everything apart. All I see is the heater. How can I tell if it's broken? Will I have to see some frost build up before the heater starts running?

What step should i take?
 
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Old 09-04-08, 02:35 PM
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I thought you were going to answer my simple questions.

Anyway, since you are concerned about your defrost cycle: Todayt _I_ was working on a refrigerator with like-related problem. I manually advanced the timer to put it in defrost.

First I unpluggd the unit, and then plugged in my electric watt meter in the outlet (a Kill-A-Watt meter), then plugged the fridge into IT. When I rotated the timer dial and the compressor and fan shut off, it did go into defrost mode, and it was working, because I got a 450 kilowatt reading. Then I made a line with a magic marker, on the top of the fridge compartment ceiling by the dial, to show how it was pointing. Then I left to go work on their toilet in the basement. Then came upstairs and saw the timer was moving on it's own. And then about 15 minutes later the fridge started running again. So then I knew everything about the defrost cycle was good.

If you have one (or go buy one, as they are neat to have, anyway) of those Kill-A-Watt test meters, you can make that determination, as I did, without taking any panel off nor having to test the connections of the defrost element or the defrost thermostat.

If you have already warmed up your coil, the defrost thermostat may remain closed until it cools enough. After running the fridge for just a short bit, I'd imagine the defrost cycle wil be ready once again to test.
 
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Old 09-04-08, 03:01 PM
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I apologize for not answering your questions, all of this is a bit confusing to me. After I defrosted the coils and pluged it back in everything started running, I heard the compressor and cool air was blowing the freezer. So yes, everything is running.

I don't have one of those meters but, I pulled out the heater - does this look bad to you:



thanks
 
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Old 09-07-08, 03:11 PM
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Just to let you guys know. I went to the store and got a replacement heater, and so far it's working fine!
The replacement part had 2 bulbs in it and it was the same model number as the old - so maybe it failed because it was a bad design to begin with.
It was a pain installing because I had to run the two wires to one side as opposed to the old way of one wire to each side.

So one wire was not long enough and I had to splice and extend the wire with an included wire in the kit.
I had to go out and buy some ge silicon adhesive called rtv 100 to make the connection water tight and it was not easy to work with.
But all in all it was a learning experience and I payed about $50 to fix it as opposed to probably $300 to have GE repair it good job me

thanks for the help
 
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Old 09-07-08, 03:26 PM
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First, thanks for saying what you did, as I wish everyone would do that.

Is that a darkened glass bulb I see in bottom photo at bottom left, which attaches to white-yellowed plastic or ceramic base? If yes, I'd imagine so, exspecially if you put in 2 new clear glass ones.

Never had to deal with such type of defrosters yet. But the principle and diagnosing would be the same. And if you had one of those meters, you would have been able to tell if there was an ample watt draw (which there wouldn't have been if bulbs burned out), before ever opening up the back.
 
 

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