Fridge died after moving house.
#1
09-29-08, 05:03 AM
Fridge died after moving house.
Hi,
We recently moved house and our fridge was unplugged for about 2 hours. At our new house we plugged the fridge in and it worked fine and was starting to get cold. About four hours later there was a really loud popping sound and the fridge died and tripped the house circuit breaker. The fridge is now completely dead, no light or compressors or anything. I checked all the wiring and everything seems fine. I reset the circuit breaker and the fridge hasn't tripped it again, the fridge is just completely dead.
Any ideas?
The fridge is a Kelvinator, twin compressor.
Thanks,
Gareth
We recently moved house and our fridge was unplugged for about 2 hours. At our new house we plugged the fridge in and it worked fine and was starting to get cold. About four hours later there was a really loud popping sound and the fridge died and tripped the house circuit breaker. The fridge is now completely dead, no light or compressors or anything. I checked all the wiring and everything seems fine. I reset the circuit breaker and the fridge hasn't tripped it again, the fridge is just completely dead.
Any ideas?
The fridge is a Kelvinator, twin compressor.
Thanks,
Gareth
#4
09-29-08, 07:44 AM
I've never heard of this or seen this before.
Maybe the first thing I'd is rotate the defrost timer dial, just a little, to see if by chance this occured while trying to defrost. By rotating the dial, you'd take it out of the defrost wiring mode. If there was a short in the circuit, then the short would no longer matter, and it should start up - of course, until it got back to the defrost cycle again. This could very well be where your problem is, and explain why it ran at first but then went out. As that would have occured when it clicked into the defrost mode. Maybe the element dead shorted.
If that was not it, then look in the compressor area. I think I'd unplug unit, expose the rear cord connection into the unit and ohms test the cord to make sure it did not get shorted there or in the plug head.
If not, then I'd remove relays from compressor pins (3 pins shaped in a triangle pattern) and test the compressor pins for ohms. You test by setting meter to a low ohms range and put one probe on one pin and the other probe on another pinb. Do all three combinations. Like a-b, b-c, a-c) You should get real low numbers, and 2 of the numbers should add up to the third number. And ohms test between each pin and the metal of the compressor (test to clean copper is best), to make sure compressor not dead shorted. Any reading at all between a pin and the metal outside = short.
If that still wasn't it, I'd get into the compartment where the fans are, to make sure evaporator and condensor fans and electric wires by them were not shorted.
If that was not it, I'd go into thermostat compartment and have a look in there.
Maybe the first thing I'd is rotate the defrost timer dial, just a little, to see if by chance this occured while trying to defrost. By rotating the dial, you'd take it out of the defrost wiring mode. If there was a short in the circuit, then the short would no longer matter, and it should start up - of course, until it got back to the defrost cycle again. This could very well be where your problem is, and explain why it ran at first but then went out. As that would have occured when it clicked into the defrost mode. Maybe the element dead shorted.
If that was not it, then look in the compressor area. I think I'd unplug unit, expose the rear cord connection into the unit and ohms test the cord to make sure it did not get shorted there or in the plug head.
If not, then I'd remove relays from compressor pins (3 pins shaped in a triangle pattern) and test the compressor pins for ohms. You test by setting meter to a low ohms range and put one probe on one pin and the other probe on another pinb. Do all three combinations. Like a-b, b-c, a-c) You should get real low numbers, and 2 of the numbers should add up to the third number. And ohms test between each pin and the metal of the compressor (test to clean copper is best), to make sure compressor not dead shorted. Any reading at all between a pin and the metal outside = short.
If that still wasn't it, I'd get into the compartment where the fans are, to make sure evaporator and condensor fans and electric wires by them were not shorted.
If that was not it, I'd go into thermostat compartment and have a look in there.
