Kenmore electric dryer will not heat


  #1  
Old 12-23-08, 07:10 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Kenmore electric dryer will not heat

I have a Kenmore 110.60932990 electric dryer. I have replaced the thermostat and high heat sensor. How do I check the heating element to see if it is bad? The wire appears to be in okay shape.
 
  #2  
Old 12-23-08, 08:29 AM
H
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 208
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Unplug dryer, and check all the thermostats, heater coils, high limit switch using your Ohm meter. All readings should be about zero Ohms, except the heater coil, it will be less than 20 ohms. Does the motor run, but no heat? Did you check the circuit breaker?
 
  #3  
Old 12-26-08, 07:56 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
thanks

The blower spins and the drums turns so I assume the breaker is okay, it is not tripped. I did check with my OHM meter, I got a reading on the heating coil of zero. Does that mean the coil is bad? And thanks for the reply!
 
  #4  
Old 12-26-08, 09:21 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,112
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
Dave...the dryer can still do as you mentioned with 1/2 of the breaker good-1/2 bad.
The element needs the higher voltage (240), but all the rest only uses 120.

It's not common, but it can happen.

Try turning the breaker fully off, then on. Then check the power at the outlet for the dryer.
 
  #5  
Old 12-26-08, 10:31 AM
H
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 208
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
If it still doesn't work after checking the breaker, use that Ohm meter with the dryer unplugged, and check all the thermostats, and everything else in the heater circuit. Most common problem will be the high limit switch, usually a white oblong 1/8 in thick thing held on by two screws and two wire terminals It will be located on the metal housing that the heating coils are located in. If you get a low reading on the heater, that is OK. After I have done years of service calls on 220 dryers, that is the first thing I check, going for the easy fix first, before moving and tearing the dryer apart. Second thing for me is that high limit device, as if you don't have really good air flow, the dryer will tend to overheat, and that thermo switch is a one time device, and when it opens, it has to be replaced. Good luck.

H.
 
  #6  
Old 12-26-08, 11:41 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks guys! I have already replaced the thermostat and the thermal cut off located on the side of the heating element housing. I also replaced the thermal fuse on the side of the exhaust duct. I am not experienced with my OHM meter and not sure if a fuse is supposed to read zero when both probes are in contact with it. That what is happening when I check the heating element (dryer un-plugged).With the meter set to 250 ACV it pegs the meter at 250 volts so I assume I have all the power needed to run the dryer. I really need to stop spending money on the wrong parts.
 
  #7  
Old 12-26-08, 11:52 AM
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 517
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
"That what is happening when I check the heating element (dryer un-plugged).With the meter set to 250 ACV it pegs the meter at 250 volts so I assume I have all the power needed to run the dryer. I really need to stop spending money on the wrong parts."

if you have 240 volts across the element and its not heating then its bad.

basically, you will have 240 across the bad part if there is only one part bad and you have 240 at the terminal block.

if this dryer has a heater relay it could be the problem, again it will have 240 if bad.
 
  #8  
Old 12-26-08, 11:53 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,112
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
Well, no appliance guy...but basics I can help.

A good fuse or a short length of wire will read 0 ohms. Fuses should really be checked out of the circuit. A blown fuse should read infinite ohms.

Elements will have a very low resistance, I can't tell you what a normal reading would be.

You should read about 240 between the hot legs of the outlet and about 120 from each hot to ground/neutral.
btw...how many prongs on your outlet?

Make sure you set the meter to the right range when you change from OHMs to AC Volts.

You shouldn't peg the meter if yer set to a 250VAC range, close, yes, but not off the scale.
 
  #9  
Old 12-27-08, 12:37 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
stumped

Thanks GunGuy.
I checked the outlet (3 prong); There is 240 V between hot legs and 120 V each between ground and hot legs.

Next I checked the heating element with power on; Meter set at 250 V, No reading at all. That means from previous advice the element is okay.

With dryer unplugged; meter on OHM, I get infinite readings on the Thermostat and the Thermal Cut Off both located on the side of the heating element housing. Also checked the Thermal Fuse and Thermistor, both loacted on the side of the exhaust dust housing. The Thermal Fuse read infinate, the Thermistor read half way.

I just replaced the Thermostat, Thermal Cut Off and Thermal Fuse this week. I did not replace the Thermistor.

I'm stumped again.
 

Last edited by DawsonDave; 12-27-08 at 12:46 PM. Reason: additional
  #10  
Old 12-27-08, 12:44 PM
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 517
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I get infinite readings on the Thermostat and the Thermal Cut Off both located on the side of the heating element housing. Also checked the Thermal Fuse and Thermistor, both loacted on the side of the exhaust dust housing. The Thermal Fuse read infinate, the Thermistor read half way.
infinite is bad. the motor would not run if your thermal fuse was infinite.

touch the leads of your meter together, you should get close to zero ohms. thats what you want to happen you you test these fuses.
 
  #11  
Old 12-27-08, 12:50 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
meter

Thanks David.
I'm reading 3/4 of the way when I touch leads together, meter set on OHM.

I'll replace the battery in the meter and try again.
 
  #12  
Old 12-28-08, 08:04 AM
I
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 49
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
If you are getting a reading of 3/4 of the scale, you need to adjust the"Zero adjustment" on the OHMMETER.
Also one of the misconceptions of testing heater coils with an ohm meter. A continuity test with line voltage is a better test as the heater may show good with an ohmmeter and break down under line voltage continuity because an ohmmeter has only the strength of its battery.
 
  #13  
Old 12-28-08, 10:46 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
found it

Well now that I have figured out the meter with all your help, I have found the bad part. Thank You all!!!!
 
  #14  
Old 12-28-08, 10:51 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,112
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
DD Well? what was it? Don't leave us hanging.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: