Kenmore washer, sounds fine but wont spin.

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  #41  
Old 01-23-09, 06:18 PM
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Well, hammered the new drive block into place, one ear is a bit chewed up but they seated perfectly and the block has no movement.

Put everything back together and no parts were left over afterwards!

Go for a wash and no spin?

Popped the controller and I forgot to re-connect the wire to the control console (Doh!), now everything is working perfectly and sounds much happier!

Thanks all!
 
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  #42  
Old 01-24-09, 04:14 AM
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if the block jumps off the basket drive in the future go ahead and replace the basket drive too.
 
  #43  
Old 01-24-09, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by David_Thompson View Post
if the block jumps off the basket drive in the future go ahead and replace the basket drive too.
Thanks for the advice Dave, What's the part number? Are they expensive?
 
  #44  
Old 01-24-09, 06:07 AM
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here is a link to your machine
KENMORE | Model #11020922990 | AUTOMATIC WASHER | SearsPartsDirect.com
Look under brake ,gearcase*** part 1 is the what you may need.
 
  #45  
Old 01-24-09, 01:51 PM
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Hey not to hijack this thread but I'm having similar problems with my washer (model 11020422991). Its spinning but no where near what it used too and if I try to do a full load of towels it doesn't spin at all.

I have no idea about any of the parts mentioned in this thread. Is there anywhere I can pick up a free copy of a service manual for my washer before I start pulling it apart?

I know I can fix it if I can just figure out what and where everything you guys are talking about are at.
 
  #46  
Old 01-24-09, 02:30 PM
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CA Tilt machine back against wall and look for a oil streak about 12 inches from bottom. You will need a gearcase and clutch. I would also replace the drive coupler when you are there. Keep us posted and can help with repairs.
 
  #47  
Old 01-25-09, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by pugsl View Post
CA Tilt machine back against wall and look for a oil streak about 12 inches from bottom. You will need a gearcase and clutch. I would also replace the drive coupler when you are there. Keep us posted and can help with repairs.
Is that expensive? Also where can I get a manual so I can figure out how to change it out?
 
  #48  
Old 01-25-09, 07:55 PM
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it depends on your definition of expensive. check the website pugsi suggested. they'll have the parts and a manual.
 
  #49  
Old 01-25-09, 10:09 PM
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Looking up the Coupling, Gear case and Clutch I'm looking at a little over 200 dollars in parts.

Sears has a similar washer for 303.99 right now. Probably better idea to just by a new one in case something else has to be replaced as well.
 
  #50  
Old 01-26-09, 04:45 AM
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most likly you will not have to replace anything else. Your machine should be good for many years. Water pump & lid switch are the most common parts to go bad. I would repair washer if it was mine. Was there a streak of oil in cabinet?
 
  #51  
Old 01-26-09, 04:55 AM
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fyi you can get reman gearcases on ebay for about $60
 
  #52  
Old 01-26-09, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by pugsl View Post
most likly you will not have to replace anything else. Your machine should be good for many years. Water pump & lid switch are the most common parts to go bad. I would repair washer if it was mine. Was there a streak of oil in cabinet?
I haven't had a chance to look yet. I'm just coming into m weekend and will look later today.
 
  #53  
Old 01-26-09, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by pugsl View Post
CA Tilt machine back against wall and look for a oil streak about 12 inches from bottom. You will need a gearcase and clutch. I would also replace the drive coupler when you are there. Keep us posted and can help with repairs.
Ok lifted the washer and low and behold there is a streak of oil all over the sides of the washer and the gear case is dripping oil!

Heading over to ebay to see about the gear case and clutch. didn't even think about ebay.

Where is the best place to learn how to change these out?
 
  #55  
Old 03-09-09, 05:26 PM
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I know its been a while since I last posted but its been a little crazy at work. Washer is still running but have to cut the loads in half to get the spin cycle to work.

I ordered a Gearcase, clutch and a coupler. Do i need to grease the gear case before installing it?
 
  #56  
Old 03-09-09, 06:23 PM
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^no need to add oil

there is a hole that you do need to clear on the top. there will be a sticker advising you of such
 
  #57  
Old 03-11-09, 09:38 AM
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Looking for instructions on replacing the gearcase. Do I need any specialized tools like a spanner tool?
 
  #58  
Old 03-11-09, 02:52 PM
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No special tools needed. Remove agitator, If there remove spring clip and plastic washer under it, Tilt washer back against wall, take water pump off leave hoses on and fold back to left side, Take off motor and push out of way can leave wires connected take plastic clip holding wires out. Remove 3 bolts holding gearcase on. Gearcase will will slide out . To install reverse procedure but first make sure the brake is pushed all the way up May have to turn plastic lever to release it to push up.
 
  #59  
Old 03-17-09, 02:19 PM
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Ok little update.. Swapped out the gear case and the coupler. The gearcase I bought off ebay had a clutch on it so that was changed also.

My wife did a load of towels that she said worked fine. Then she did a full load of clothes. The same thing happened. It spun but did not spin the water out of the clothes.

My wife said before she would have to put it on the spin cycle then spin the basket by hand to get it to start spinning. Now it spins on its own but the clothes were dripping wet.

Did I miss something? Or should I wait a few loads to see if it corrects itself.
 
  #60  
Old 03-17-09, 03:52 PM
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sounds like an issue with the clutch. hopefully the new one was actually a new one
 
  #61  
Old 03-20-09, 03:18 AM
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You might have dragging brake shoes, turn the tranny coupler clockwise till the spin basket starts to turn, if hard to turn the coupler, you have dragging brake shoes.
 
  #62  
Old 04-23-09, 11:54 PM
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dragging brake shoe

Hi,
Sorry to jump into this thread, but I am glad
I read it.
I have opened my Kenmore Elite, and have
the new coupler ready to be installed.
However, after reading this thread, I think I too
have a "dragging brake shoe".
How do I fix it ?
thanks!
 
  #63  
Old 04-24-09, 05:02 AM
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1ST LOOK TO SEE IT THERE IS A STREAK OF OIL INSIDE OF CABINET (sry cap lock) about 4 to 6 inches from bottom. [I]f there is a streak you need a gearcase and clutch. Cheaper fix is to replace gearcase seal and clean clutch with some spray brake cleaner. in many years have not seen any draging brakes, Can happen but not often.
 
  #64  
Old 04-24-09, 08:12 AM
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kenmore elite bought in 2000

there are NO oil streaks or leaks anywhere under
the washer.
symptoms:
When I turn the coupler part connected to the
shaft of the transmission, it turns, but its a little
hard to do. After 1 or 2 tries, it becomes easier
for about 6 or 7 more turns, then becomes harder
again. When I use more force and get past the
1-2 turns, it again becomes easier for the next
6-7...

I have the new coupler part ready, but the old
one doesn't look broken. When I took the motor
out, then a few black powder shavings fell to
the floor. But the coupler components look
quite robust, i.e. not in pieces. The one connected
to the transmission is very firmly on it.
The one connected to the motor and the rubber
piece between them, came off easily..

Is it still the coupler that is the problem ?
Oh, also:
in the drum, there is a little (1 inch) of water ( a bit
dirty). Does the pump always leave a little water
in there after every wash ?

thanks!
 
  #65  
Old 04-24-09, 10:16 AM
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okay, replaced the coupler anyway,
since I had a new one, and there was some
black powder on the floor.
Then hardwired the "lid switch" and turned
on the washer.
Put it on spin cycle.
And -no- spin.
Lots of noise now, however..
Should I be going at it from the top of the washer ?
I removed the agitator cap..
and I guess what i need is something to let
me remove the agitator itself ?

thanks for your help!!

expenses so far:
running at 20$ (coupler)
socket wrench set ($20) for really small nuts
that hold the motor to the chassis
 
  #66  
Old 04-24-09, 11:23 AM
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Hey, sorry for the mass mails,
but one more thing I tried -
manually move the clutch-drum(? (the
upside down piece that holds a large spring
inside it), I turned it by pushing it with
a screwdirver. When I do that, the
inside drum (which I am trying to get to spin)
does turn.
So whatever connects that inside drum
to the clutch drum must be okay ?
So,
where is it going wrong ?
thanks in advance!
 
  #67  
Old 04-27-09, 06:29 PM
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disassembled everything from the drum out.
(lots of rust stains under the agitator on the inside
drum)
connected just the motor and the driveshaft
connected to the transmission rotates.
Now, couldnt fight the clutch/brake,
throwing in the towel and buying a new washer
 
  #68  
Old 04-28-09, 05:05 AM
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Sry for the problems Whrilpool built washer still the best out there.
 
  #69  
Old 05-12-09, 03:24 PM
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I'm having difficulty getting the new clutch to seat correctly. I cannot push the housing up high enought to bolt on. What am I doing wrong???
 
  #70  
Old 05-12-09, 04:52 PM
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you need to rotate the cam on the basket drive counter clockwise so the brake shoes will retract inwards so then the whole basket drive can move upward as you push it with your hand
 
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