Kenmore washer, sounds fine but wont spin.

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Old 01-04-09, 10:17 PM
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Kenmore washer, sounds fine but wont spin.

Model 11020922.

Motor sounds fine but basket and agitator wont spin, when it starts the agitator does start to move but just a 1/4" then stops like something is blocking it. I wouldn't have noticed anything was wrong except my cloths are wetter than usual and the smell of hot plastic or ozone.

The basket wont move at all, even manually. The agitator will start to move then nothing. Again the motor sounds perfectly normal.

Also I dismantled the agitator everything looks fine except I found these iron filings in the grease on the lower agitator. Nothing looks worn so I don't know where these filings are coming from.

From what I read it could be the coupler but I want to make sure before buying everything under the sun.

Thanks in advanced.
 
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Old 01-04-09, 11:29 PM
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No need to buy anything yet. Does the machine drain? Take off the cabinet, then drop motor down, set it on the base abd try running it. When you take down the motor, you'll be able to tell right away what shape the drive coupling is in. There is a heavy duty coupling available # 285852A or #285753A. Let us know what you find.
 
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Old 01-05-09, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by daddyjohn View Post
No need to buy anything yet. Does the machine drain? Take off the cabinet, then drop motor down, set it on the base abd try running it. When you take down the motor, you'll be able to tell right away what shape the drive coupling is in. There is a heavy duty coupling available # 285852A or #285753A. Let us know what you find.
Thanks DJ,

Sorry I am new to the washing machine repair business...what do you mean "Drop the motor"?, I opened up the machine and the motor is now off the coupler...it look ok but then I am not sure what it should look like anyway.

The coupler is still on the under-side of the washing machine, should I remove it to determine if it's broken and would that already be apearent.
Also there is a rubber grommit at the top of the transmission, what is that for?

Thanks,
 
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Old 01-05-09, 07:50 AM
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Also I dismantled the agitator everything looks fine except I found these iron filings in the grease on the lower agitator.
your drive block is stripped out. you need a new drive block. often times you dont have to replace the basket drive, just take some pliers and bend the tabs back straight.

you will need to get a whirlpool spanner nut wrench for the nut
 
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Old 01-05-09, 02:49 PM
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Coupler is at the end of motor between motor and gearcase. If you can take it off either shaft be hand you need a new one (center hole is rounded out) Rubber piece with 6 holes in it is insulator between drive lugs of coupler. Thin rubber piece near top is a noise insulator, Don't worry about it if it is loose.
 
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Old 01-05-09, 11:34 PM
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If figure I will replace the coupler either way since the original is being declared defective internetwise...

What's the difference between a 285852A and a #285753A?

Should the basket rotate freely now that the engine is good the coupler? The agitator does rotate freely at the moment.

Thanks all, you have all been wonderful gurus!
 
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Old 01-06-09, 04:47 AM
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285753A is the new replacement from Whrilpool, Don't know the other #
 
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Old 01-06-09, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by David_Thompson View Post
your drive block is stripped out. you need a new drive block. often times you dont have to replace the basket drive, just take some pliers and bend the tabs back straight.

you will need to get a whirlpool spanner nut wrench for the nut
Could someone give me the part numbers?

Also can someone tell me if the basket should spin manually, I am trying to figure out if something is jammed in there or if all I need is the Coupler and a Drive Block.

Also what is the part number for a Spanner Wrench, just want everything I need before that "oh I need one more thing" moment during a repair...

Thanks all!
 
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Old 01-07-09, 03:43 AM
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Pull the agitator and check the splines on the tranny shaft, they are probably worn off. If so, you will need a new tranny.
 
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Old 01-07-09, 08:10 PM
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Spines appear fine and still lock into the agitator.

Thanks again all, I appreciate all those that took the time to reply!
 
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Old 01-08-09, 03:06 AM
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Pull off the pump and with an adjustable wrench, turn the motor shaft clockwise and see if the spin basket starts to spin.
If not, you need a new coupler.
 
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Old 01-09-09, 11:19 PM
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Yep, not turning, thanks again!
 
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Old 01-13-09, 06:27 PM
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What's the part number for the drive block.
 
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Old 01-13-09, 08:25 PM
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389140- Sears has it for $13.
 
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Old 01-14-09, 10:13 AM
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Thanks DJ,

Ya my local Sears repair center has them for that...just needed the part number.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 01-15-09, 07:59 PM
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Ok all, I am still not getting this washer working...

I am starting to think it isn't the coupler...I opened up the washer, removed the pump, then motor. I can see the coupler and it looks fine, I removed the gasket and the 3 teeth are there on both ends of the coupler assembly and it doesn't want to come off the axels they're on. Also if I try to move the coupler on the washer side, the agitator on top of the transmission starts to move though I can only move it slightly.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!
 
  #17  
Old 01-15-09, 08:52 PM
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Time to rewind. With the motor down down off of the gearcase, put in some water, then move the timer to the wash cycle. Does the motor run? Move the timer further to the spin cycle, does the motor run in the oppisite direction [the lid needs to be down or the lid switch bypassed if you have the cabinet off.]?
 
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Old 01-15-09, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by daddyjohn View Post
Time to rewind. With the motor down down off of the gearcase, put in some water, then move the timer to the wash cycle. Does the motor run? Move the timer further to the spin cycle, does the motor run in the oppisite direction [the lid needs to be down or the lid switch bypassed if you have the cabinet off.]?
I put the washer back together, I am not sure how to bypass the switch.

If I put the washer in spin mode, I can hear the engine kick off and sounds normal. If I manually spin the agitator it moves for a sec then stops.

The pump does work,
 
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Old 01-16-09, 04:38 AM
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did you replace the drive block yet?
 
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Old 01-16-09, 07:08 AM
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Remove the transmission and turn the tranny coupler clockwise. Will the clutch and spindle now turn??
 
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Old 01-16-09, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by David_Thompson View Post
did you replace the drive block yet?
No, but I did buy one...would a stripped drive block prevent the basket from spinning too?

Both the agitator and basket move slightly then stop when the motor is running.
 
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Old 01-16-09, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by szm200 View Post
Remove the transmission and turn the tranny coupler clockwise. Will the clutch and spindle now turn??
Did this and yes, it does seem to move...
 
  #23  
Old 01-16-09, 10:21 AM
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I know this is probably a dumb question, I have the agitator all pulled apart and can see the metal agitator rod, grease and metal shavings. Do I have to remove the cabinet again?

How do I get down to the drive block to remove it, also what grease should I use to replace the stuff I am removing?

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-16-09, 03:59 PM
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would a stripped drive block prevent the basket from spinning too?
yes

dont worry about replacing the grease. you need a whirlpool spanner nut wrench to get the nut off so you can replace the drive block
 
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Old 01-17-09, 12:35 AM
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Do I have to remove the chassis to get to the block...just asking before doing so...
 
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Old 01-17-09, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by greybard View Post
Do I have to remove the chassis to get to the block...just asking before doing so...
you only need to remove the cabinet, tub cover(top ring) and then the basket
 
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Old 01-17-09, 07:44 AM
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Hey guys, I know I saw an illustration of the agitator assembly that I will need to get all these parts back in the right order.

I can't seem to find it with google now, anyone know where I might find one?

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-17-09, 12:14 PM
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here is a link to Sears put model # in and there will be a break down of your machine.
 
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Old 01-17-09, 12:28 PM
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Must be in invisible ink!

Where's the link?
 
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Old 01-17-09, 11:00 PM
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  #31  
Old 01-17-09, 11:51 PM
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Thanks daddy forgot to paste link.
 
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Old 01-21-09, 09:19 PM
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Ok, the spanner finally came in and beating it with a rubber mallet finally got the spanner nut off...

So now I should be able to pull up the basket up off the shaft but it doesn't seem to want to come.

I am a little worried about the the grinding I am perceiving coming from below as I pull up on the basket hard.

Just making sure this is the next step because I am afraid of forcing and breaking something.

Thanks all!
 
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Old 01-21-09, 09:37 PM
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Ok, sorry about this becoming and epic...

Finally got the inner basket off...YAY Me!

Problem: The Drive block came off with the basket and is still in the shaft of the inner basket.

I tried to get it to come out but it is catching on the filter on the bottom of the basket (I believe that's the lint trap).

Does the lint trap come off?

Should I be able to remove the drive block around this filter without damaging it.

Is it normal for the basket to look all couroded on the bottom?

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-22-09, 04:12 AM
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The block should drop out the bottom of basket. A lot of times there is a build up of old soap and softner. Get the block straight in hole and push out the bottom. Light rust on bottom of basket should not hurt anything.
 
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Old 01-22-09, 04:28 AM
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I am trying to get it out the bottom but it is hanging up on the four tabs that hold the filter to the bottom of inner basket.

Any ideas?
 
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Old 01-22-09, 05:18 AM
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Any ideas?
push harder, they have always come out for me
 
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Old 01-22-09, 08:52 PM
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I've pushed as hard as I could, it isn't getting past those Nylon tabs that hold the filter to the inner-basket.

Do I need to take the thing off before the drive block can come out or should it be able to slide past somehow.

I have even tried hammering and now one of the tabs is bent a little.
 
  #38  
Old 01-22-09, 11:43 PM
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Well, got tired of this washing machine repair going into extra innings so I removed the filter by pushing in the 4 tabs and out it popped and so did the drive block...

So in answer to my question: Yes, you do have to remove the filter to get the old drive block off.

Also gives me a chance to clean the filter plate now that it's off.

The "ears" on the tube are a little warn but still are bent straight and engage the block tightly. The old block literally has its entire ring of the groves worn off! It is just a smooth ring on top. Seems the "ears part is iron the the drive block is aluminum.

Thanks for all the help all!
 
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Old 01-23-09, 05:04 AM
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The tabs engage the inside of the block Look inside block and see if slots are rounded or gone.
 
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Old 01-23-09, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by pugsl View Post
The tabs engage the inside of the block Look inside block and see if slots are rounded or gone.
Ya, like I said...the whole ring of the block is gone...definitely a new one is needed!
 
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