Kenmore Fridge/Freezer too cold

I have a 5 year old Kenmore side by side fridge/freezer. The compressor and freezer fan never shut off. The Freezer temp is about -20f and the fridge is near zero. The water line to the ice maker and water dispenser is frozen. I have defrosted the freezer and fridge, cleaned the coils underneath and behind. I also replaced the thermostat in the freezer compartment and have just replaced the controller board in the fridge compartment all with no difference in operation. The temp adjustments for the fridge and freezer seem to have no effect. There is an air vent coming from the freezer into the fridge controlled by a motorized louver and it seems to be working. Need to know what makes the compressor turn off. Any ideas? Help would be most appreciated!

 

The temperature control [usually called the cold control] turns the compressor on/off, it sounds like it's stuck in the closed position. Can you post the model # of your fridge? When you say you replaced the freezer thermostat- do you mean a device that's clipped onto the frezzer refrigeration coil?

 

Thanks for the reply daddyjohn! Yes I did replace the device that clips on to the freezer coils, came with a small wiring harness. Is that the Thermostat? Part number on that is 2220150.
my Kenmore fridge model is 106-53270301

 

I figured that would be your response. The device that clips onto the freezer coil is the defrost thermostat. Its function is to shut off the defrost heater when the freezer coil warms up during the defrost cycle. It does not control the box temperature. I think I may have figured out the problem. At Sears parts website I noticed that your fridge uses a control board and a thermistor. A thermistor is a resistor that varies its resistance as the ambient temperature around it changes. You need to look behind the grille at the bottom and locate the tech sheet [look inside the grille as well]. It will give you troubleshooting/diagnostic procedures and should also have a temp verus resistance chart for the thermistor. I think you're going to find that the thermistor is either bad or way out of calibration. Sears shows it as part # 2188819, it's about $7. Let us know what you find. Does the box have a touch pad for setting the temperature?

 

I checked behind the grill and could not find any paper or instructions. Were is the thermistor located? Is it located in the freezer? or is it by the vent coming from the freezer into the fridge part? There is a black device with 2 wires coming out of it in the vent the plugs in to a connector and then goes into the control board. The fridge has a touch pad for the temp control.

 

The device with the two wires is the thermistor. Take the temp at the thermistor with a thermometer and then read the resistance of the thermistor with a digital volt ohmeter.

 

I tested the thermistor, at 40f in the fridge it was 6.3K ohms

 

I found some service instructions for Kitchenaid side by side fridges with electronic control. Since both your fridge and KA's are made by Whirlpool, the instructions should apply. I learned something new, there are TWO thermistors! To download the instructions go to Service Matters Online click on technical reference, then next pge click on I accept, next page click on technical library [left sidebar], next page click on job aids [left sidebar], next page click on search job aids [upper middle of the page], next page type in refrigerator then click on search, next page click on KA side by side electronic control [KAR-10], next page click on the pdf symbol, then print out the document. See if that helps. I'm still convinced you will find a bad thermistor but it will be the freezer thermistor. I'm surprised there's no tech sheet with your fridge. Maybe some technician "borrowed" it. The diagnostic mode will tell you the thermistor resistances. Let us know what you find. Thanks.

 

Ok I downloaded the controls manual thanks to your detailed instructions! I picked up a thermistor last night and replaced it on the fridge side but did not solve the problem. Took the freezer apart tonight and found the second thermistor! It enters through the baffle motor from the fridge side and is hidden behind a panel in the freezer. Actually goes down into the shelf rails. I have just replaced it and I ran the diagnostics and it shows everything working. Will leave for a few hours and see what happens! Will let you know.

 

Sounds good. The thermistor in the fridge controls the baffle door. The resistance reading you got was close to the chart so it's probably ok. The thermistor in the freezer controls the compressor. Hopefully it's fixed. Let us know; the feedback helps others. Thanks.

 

I am having the same problem with my Kenmore. Both Freezer and Refrigerator are too cold. I downloaded the Job Aid KAR-10 as you suggested and ran the diagnostic test. For Step 01 Freezer Thermistor the displayed result was "1" (note my filter indicator window shows numbers rather than green/red lights). For Step 02 Refrigerator Thermistor the displayed result was "1" My question is what does the "1" mean? The Job Aid does not explain this result.

 

Try taking the cable for the freezer thermistor off nad read the resistance of the thermistor. Check it againt the temp in the freezer. Let us know what you find. Thanks.

 

I reviewed the parts list and diagrams for my Kenmore Side by Side Model # 106.52603100. In the Freezer Unit Parts List it shows Part# 2196155 B-Metal, Defrost. Is this the thermistor you are referring to in the freezer? (the "thermistor" terminology is not specifically listed in this section of the parts list).
There is a thermistor (RC) listed (Part #2216113) listed in the Refrigerator Liner Parts List. It looks like it is located near the Air Diffuser.
Should I be testing this thermistor first or the Bi-Metal defrost unit above?

 

Hi daddyjohn. Great news! It's fixed! It was the thermistor in the freezer. Thanks so much for your help would never have found that hidden part if not for you.
I see desertdwellr is having similiar problem. I do not have a numeric read out either. So when in diagnostics I noticed that the freezer temp setting moved forward each time I went to the next level. So I think the #1 on freezer temp is step one on diagnostic. I did not try diagnostics before replacing the Thermistor so do not know if it would show error.
Anyway thanks again for help. I will watch this post in case I can offer anyone else some info on this problem.
Cheers! Dave

 

dpa- That's great. The problem just had to be whatever monitors/controls the box temp. I learned something as well. Thanks for the feedback.

dw- niether one. The defrost bimetal shuts off the defrost heater when the coil warms up during defrost. The thermistor in the liner controls the air baffle. The chill section temp is controled by the air flow from the freezer section to the chill section. Read thru these posts and you'll see what dpa did to fix theirs. You need to locate the freezer thermistor, then read its resistance vs the temp in the freezer section[using the chart]. If the reisistance is ok, then the board is probabaly bad. The parts diagram confused me as well because it didn't show the freezer thermistor. Let us know what you find. Thanks.

 

Hi dpav11,

Can you describe what the freezer thermistor you replaced looks like?

As you can tell from my previous post, i may be confusing the thermistor with another part called Part# 2196155 Bi-Metal, Defrost which is probably Defrost Thermostat.

THX
desertdwellr

 

Hey DJ,

Thank you for answering my questions. I will follow your direction and search out the freezer thermistor.

desertdwellr

 

You'll probably find that both thermistors have the same part #. Let us know how you make out.

 

The fridge and freezer Thermistor are identical.
Is Black and about 12 " long with small white 2 prong connector at one end and just a black bullet shaped thermistor at the other end, The termistor is not as big as a shelled peanut. I made the same mistake and changed the thermistat thinking it was the thermistor. Was only thanks to daddyjohn that I found the hidden thermistor. The Sears part # for the thermistor is 2188819. It cost me $10. Good luck!

 

Thanks to everyone on this forum for helping with the temperature problem in my fridge. Without ever having even attempted to service a fridge, I followed your advice and ordered a replacement thermistor from sears. The fix is easy and took about 10 minutes. I discovered that both thermistors (refrigerator and freezer sections) are both connected on the refrigerator side, with the freezer one poking thru a hole to the freezer side. Other than figuring this part out, a few screws and all was done.

I previously had my freezer running constantly and measured -25+ degrees. It was also freezing over my drain and creating alot of ice at the bottom of the freezer. Now the freezer runs at a steady -4 degrees without the ice problem.

This saved me $1800 since I actually ordered a new refrigerator, and since this post, I canceled the order.

Thanks again to all!

-TexasAgent

 

I have been having a very similar problem. So similar that I assumed my thermistor was bad too. I changed the freezer thermistor, with no effect, and then swapped the fridge thermistor also, again with no effect. I then saw the bit about the diagnostic test on the controller, and everything seems to check out fine. However, the freezer still never shuts off! We have been just turning it off and on to regulate the temp, but would sure like to fix it. Could it be the electronic control board itself? (looks to be about $150 for the part). Any help is appreciated!

 

Ran the diagnostics for both the FC thermistor, and the RC thermistor, both tests show good thermistors. So, is it the control board???

The user FC temp control seems to have no effect on FC temperature.

Anyone???

 

This information saved me a service call. The thermistor in the Freezer Compartment (FC)was bad and I was able to replace it with your information. Thanks for your help.
NOTE: Some here have said that the readouts were different. My tech sheet was tucked into a front clip ( Part of the front grill ) held there, neatly folded with two other Data Sheets.
Also FYI from my data sheet -
To enter the diagnostic routine for control board #2313177
* Press Control "ON" button and the “C” button simultaneously for 2 seconds.
* Diagnostics begins at step 1
* The freezer cpmpartment (FC) temperature display will show “1” to indicatethe control is in step no. 1 of the diagnostics routine.
* Press the FC Temp up button to move through to the next step in sequence.
* The FC display advances each time the FC Temp Up Button is pressed. (Indicating the completion of the previous step.)
* The diagnostis mode ends automatically.

If the control does NOT respond it may be necessary to remove power from the entire appliance for a few seconds. Re-apply power and perform the service diagnostics routine.

Step no. component tested Result

1 FC Thermister 1= PASS 2=FAIL
2 RC Thermister 1= PASS 2=FAIL
3 Evaporator Fan Motor 120VAC between red & white wires at motor
4 Compressor and Condensor 120VAC at compressor red & white wires.
5. Air Baffle Motor 120VAC at baffle red & white wires.
6. Defrost Heater/Bi-metal 120VAC between line and neutral at heater. NOTE: If bi-metal is OPEN it must be bypassed for heater to receive voltage. If bi-metal is bypassed do NOT overheat the evaporator coils.
Hope this helps someone.

 

I have the same problem with a 253.53322302 model, and it seems to be the thermostat control. I measured with an ohmeter, and it's not working on the fridge side. So, I bought another thermostat, but was surpised when it came with an extra long metal wire. I see where the connectors connect to the prongs, but I can't tell where the long metal wire connects to. Do, I have to take off the damper to access the connection?? I couldn't see an easy way to do this. If anyone can help, I sure would appreciate it! I'm here with my fridge apart, wondering how to connect this! Thanks so much in advance!

 

I suspected that there was a thermister or two in my Kenmore. It runs constantly and freezes everything. Just started to do this a few days ago.
I have a part number for the thermister and was even e-mailed a pdf supposedly representing it's location. Drawing does not really look like mine too much as I have an ice maker in the way.
I would love to get this done in ten minutes as another poster had indicated but it looks like I will be unscrewing all kinds of panels. I hope not!!
The Sears Whirlpool side by side model is 106.55394400

Any hints to the exact location and what has to be removed to get at it would be greatly appreciated.

Great advise and instruction you had given to the other users in this thread.

Thanks!

RadioRon
MT Pleasant WI

 

Service Matters Online link posted by daddyjohn no longer works for this model of 106.54602300 kenmore fridge service manual. Could someone please send me or point me to where I can get this online. I am having the issue where the fridge side is running very cold so I assume the damper is not closing properly because a thermistor needs replacing. Thanks..

 

The link works fine. It's no longer a free service to the public.
Did you check for the tech sheets usually clipped behind the removable front grille ?

I'll look for them also.

Your assumption on a defective thermistor is most likely true.

 

I have not looked at the grill. It's my daughter's home fridge so next time I go there I'll check. To remove grill I need to open both doors and just pull out he grill or is there some procedure?

 

You may not even have to open the doors. The grille snaps straight out.

 

eiser to reinstall with doors open.

 

I have a similar problem. Kenmore Elite side by side model 106.53606202. Ice is building up in the bottom of both compartments every few days. I have already cleaned out the freezer defrost drain several times and replaced the defrost thermostat. Freezer is extremely cold -20 and refrigerator temp is normal except on bottom where ice builds up.