KitchenAid Stove Controller Board Jumper Settings


  #1  
Old 01-21-09, 12:49 PM
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KitchenAid Stove Controller Board Jumper Settings

I've got a KitchenAid Superba gas/electric range that's about 6 years old. Model # is KGST307HBS6, Serial # is IMM0761946.
The controller board (for all the advanced cooking features, etc) is rather sensitive to electrical surges and I've had to have it replaced twice over the life of the unit.
Recently, we had power surges that knocked it out once more. Having watched it be replaced twice, this time I decided to simply order the part and install it myself.
I got the part and got it installed without problems, but the directions say to "remember to remove the jumper P3 from the old control board and place it onto the new control (if applicable)".
My problem is that I already sent the old board back to the supplier (for a $35 credit) and there is no way to know whether I need to jumper the P3 pins (of which there are 4 on the block).
When plugged in, the board appears to be dead (no lights or anything). I know I have power since the top burner igniters operate.
Does anyone know which pins need to be jumpered?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
 
  #2  
Old 02-03-09, 07:11 AM
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Still hoping for a response...

I know this is a shot in the dark, but I'm hopeful that some one reading the forum will be able to supply the jumper settings for this board.
Right now, I've been without an oven for the last six weeks.

Help!
 
  #3  
Old 02-03-09, 06:36 PM
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I don't know the settings however 2 idea:

Can you call the supplier and see if they still have your old board and can look at it?

Can you call the guy who replaced it before? maybe he'll help you.
 
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Old 02-03-09, 09:53 PM
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Thanks! Those are both excellent ideas!

The supplier of the board (A.P. Wagner) has no technical support whatsoever - they just sell them. I contacted KitchenAid and was also disappointed to learn that they have no technical support available either. They suggested talking to a local service tech.

I arranged for a service tech to make a house call ($45). While he remembered that there was a jumper that needed to be moved from the old board to the new one, he couldn't remember which pins were jumped in the process. He promised to call me with this info the next time he replaced one, which could be next week or in a couple of months.

I didn't have the old board available for reference because I'd already sent it back to the supplier. Unfortunately, the board never arrived and has been lost in the postal system. I'm kicking myself for not having popped another couple of bucks for a tracking number (doh!).

At this point, I'm stuck with no way of knowing which way to get this supposedly good board working so that I can use my over again.
 
  #5  
Old 02-06-09, 10:26 PM
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I think I found it
go to www,servicematters.com, click on technical reference, next page accept, next page technical library [sidebar], next page tech sheets/wiring diagrams [sidebar], next page input your model number, next page download the tech sheets, the first tech sheet has a table [right under the warning ] that tells what to jumper depending on what kind of oven you have. Let us know how you make out. Thanks.
 
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Old 02-07-09, 07:30 AM
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Thanks! Almost there...

This looks like exactly what I'm looking for! Wow!

Just one question, though. The jumper settings differ on the oven configuration, as shown in the diagram: .

The three columns are "Free Standing", "Hidden Bake", and "Color".

My stove is a slide-in, so I guess it's not Free Standing. I don't understand what "Hidden Bake" indicates, since the oven is just a normal oven. The color choices of White, Red and Black are also confusing, since I don't think they're referring to the color of the oven. ;-) Wire color, maybe? But there are no wires, only pins.

Any ideas?
 
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Old 02-07-09, 07:44 AM
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I don't think my picture link posted. Here it is again:

Flickr: Please wait...

 
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Old 02-07-09, 09:59 PM
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HI Jeff:

The pictures didn't come thru. I'm sure that the "color" refers to wire color on a wire harness which probably left with the old board. I have no idea what hidden bake means. If you look at page four, there is some notation about hidden bake and exposed bake on convection units. I don't know what that means, maybe your owners manual discusses it? I'll try to find a service manual at WP's website, it will probably have an explanation. If you look at the table on page one, there are only 2 configurations. I suggest trying one of them with an alligator clip wire jumper and see what happens. Just be sure the connections are secure before you power up because you'll have to press buttons on the keyboard to get it to start. Let us know what happens.
 
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Old 02-09-09, 07:21 AM
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Right on target. The data on page four helped me to resolve the ambiguities, since I have a slide-in with a covered baking unit (at least there is a cover over the heating element at the bottom of the oven).

So, for my stove, I need to jumper pins 3 and 5, leaving pins 4 and 7 untouched.

That's the good news. The bad news is that even with the proper jumper settings, the board is still dead. The service tech told me that is another logic board on the side of the stove, which might be the problem, or it might just be that the replacement board was DOA.

Regardless, after seven weeks with no oven, I'm going to throw in the towel, return the defective board and call the local service techs and just have them fix the fracking stove...

Deep thanks for your help, which was absolutely spot-on the whole way!
 
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Old 02-09-09, 05:18 PM
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Well I wish we had resolved it. I'm curious to know how much the repair costs if you don't mind sharing. Thanks.
 
  #11  
Old 02-10-09, 01:42 PM
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The repair guy just left after replacing the other board on the side of the stove (he had one on his truck). He also soldered the proper pins on the jumper block with hi-temp wire for a permanent fix.

So, now my stove is working, and it only cost me $541.74.

Plus, $363. 54 for the correct replacement board, my total comes to $905.28. I'm electing not to count the $319.43 that I spent for the wrong board that went missing when I sent it back to the supplier.

Gee, and for only another hundred or so, I could have had a brand new stove...
Looks like I got spanked good on this one. :bad poster:
 
  #12  
Old 02-10-09, 04:21 PM
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Yeah that's the problem with the electronic controls. They're great when they work but $$$ when they go South. I'm glad you're up and running again. Thanks for the feedback.
 
 

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