Kitchenaid (Whirlpool) Washer Agitates, Drains, But Doesn't Spin

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Old 02-01-09, 02:40 PM
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Kitchenaid (Whirlpool) Washer Agitates, Drains, But Doesn't Spin

I have a Kitchenaid KAWE900S washer from 1987 that will fill, wash and agitate fine, but when it comes to the spin cycles, the machine makes a loud sort of "whooping" noise but doesn't actually spin. Meanwhile, it pumps out fine.

It's NOT the lid switch, because this operates normally (ie., if you open the lid during the spin cycle, the motor stops...then starts up again when you close the lid.)

Everything else seems normal. All the posts I see for "no spin" like this say that if it also doesn't agitate, you have a broken motor coupler. But I DO have agitation, and a good lid switch.

Any ideas appreciated!!

--Greg
 
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Old 02-01-09, 02:56 PM
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could be drive block under the agitator or basket drive.
 
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Old 02-02-09, 04:26 AM
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Tilt machine back to wall and look under it. If you see a streak of oil about 6 inches up or oil dripping off gearcase you need a clutch and gearcase. Would replace drive coupler at same time.
 
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Old 02-02-09, 09:38 PM
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Final diagnosis...

...I think! I tipped and tipped but no grease or oil leak. Also, no shavings, shreddings, particles of nylon or metal anywhere. The bottom of the machine, gearcase etc. are spotless (except for lots of dust!)

Okay, here's the info on what I've done, hopefully leading to a final diagnosis:

1) Confirmed correct operation of lid switch
2) Removed agitator; top of two 'tabs' from spin tube are perfectly even with top of drive block, so I assume drive block is a-ok
3) Jumpered lid switch and ran spin cycle while observing the shiny clutch drum. Clutch drum did not rotate at all. (Just dropped down a tad.) Transmission made screetchy sound throughout.
4) Removed pump and motor and inspected motor coupler. It's perfect. (Black circular piece closest to motor housing; matching round white piece with "pins" that fit into black piece. Doesn't look like the three-piece one that is sold for my machine at repairclinic.com!)

SO...the machine agitates and drains but doesn't spin. Drive block looks okay (without having removed basket). The lid switch is good. The motor coupler is fine.

Is the conclusion we have to replace the gearcase? If so, should I replace anything else at the same time? (All other components are in really nice shape considering the machine is 20 years old.)

Thoughts? Thanks!
 
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Old 02-02-09, 09:48 PM
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P.s.

Or is it possible I just need a Neutral Drain Kit, which I found in another post?

"2911" Parts from RepairClinic.com

Thanks,

Greg
 
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Old 02-03-09, 04:19 AM
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Have you looked under the basket? May have something stuck under there, If not sounds like a gearcase. I would take basket out and look.
 
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Old 02-03-09, 04:22 AM
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your gearcase is bad if the clutch doesnt spin with a good coupler.

may want to replace the coupler too since they break all the time
 
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Old 02-03-09, 11:06 AM
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Hey Pugsl

I did shine a strong light around the tub from both sides and I could see really well (with the cabinet off)...there is nothing between the tub and the basket.

So I'll replace the gearcase. The Whirlpool quick guide I have says to

1. Remove cabinet (done)
2. Remove pump and motor (done)
3. Gently lay washer on its back.
4. Remove the three bolts securing the gearcase assembly to the tub support.
5. Pull the gearcase straight out from the tube support assembly.

Is that all there is? Makes it sound like I don't have to remove anything else. Should I have to remove the basket? (I don't have a tub nut spanner tool and don't want to spend another $20 if I don't need to.)

Thanks for any tips on gearcase replacement.
 
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Old 02-03-09, 02:00 PM
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Don't ned to remove basket to replace gearcase. Take agitator off and and the white plastic peice and medal spring clip. Just lean machine back against the wall. Gearcase will come out that way. I don't take off the cabinet to do it.
 
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Old 02-08-09, 06:10 PM
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Gearcase Replaced, Works, but...Burning Smell

Just installed a brand new FSP transmission. It was pretty easy, except for reattaching the motor clamps, and reinstalling the cabinet.

Good news: On a test run, the washer agitated and spinned perfectly! Bad news: After a couple of minutes of agitating , I noticed a fairly strong burning smell. (After I cleared the air, I ran drain/spin to empty the tub, and this time no smell.) I am quite sure I reassembled everything correctly. I MAY have mixed up the motor's start capacitor lug connections...but they are both identical, connecting to a pair of identical red wires, so it would not appear to matter.

Possible problems...
Coupler -- The new transmission came with the "teardrop" style lugs on its coupler, while the motor still has the old round lugs. I reused the original black rubber coupling, which was in fine condition, and had to "stretch" it a bit to get the new teardrop shaped lugs into the round holes. But everything fit nice and snug.
Clutch -- No issues removing and reinstalling with all parts including thrust washer. Works fine.
Motor -- In removing dust bunnies etc. it's possible I pushed some dust into windings, or got a little grease into them. Could that make them smell?
Gearcase -- It was factory sealed (I did clear the pinhole on top as directed). I assume it comes preloaded with oil. Do these sometimes smell upon "break-in"?

Anyone have any ideas? I don't want to run it again if I'm going to risk messing something up.

Thanks

--Greg
 
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Old 02-09-09, 04:36 AM
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Rubber coupler has 6 holes 3 for motor and 3 for gearcase. Hardest part of job is lining them up. Spring clips on motor, after lining up lugs lean motor down and put lower clip on than put fingers between motor and tub and push clip on.
You may have to take cabinet off to see where smoke is coming from. Will have to jumper lid switch to get to spin.
 
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Old 02-09-09, 05:35 AM
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I reused the original black rubber coupling, which was in fine condition, and had to "stretch" it a bit to get the new teardrop shaped lugs into the round holes.
i suggest you buy a new coupler 285753a fsp brand so everything matches up correctly
 
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Old 02-19-09, 07:35 PM
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All Done

It was the coupler. Replaced it with the new type, and no more burning smell.

In the meantime, the clothes dryer broke! On to the next repair...
 
 

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