Whirlpool fridge start device relay

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  #1  
Old 03-09-09, 02:55 PM
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Whirlpool fridge start device relay

I have a Kirkland side-by-side fridge made by whirlpool. The start device relay (2212194) fried itself so I went to my local parts store and bought a replacement (8201786). Problem I have now is the instructions say to use part 2187145 for the EGY80 and the 2154697 for the EGY90. I have the EGY90 so I looked for the 2154697 but it wasn't part of the kit. There are two relays in the kit and they are 2188829 and 2188830, which the instructions say to use for a different style.

These new relays are similar to my old one but the connections are way different, and the only way that I could ever connect them would be to cut off the old connectors on the wires and install completely different ones. The new relays appear that they would install onto the compressor OK, it's the wires that come from the different plugs and components that would plug onto the front side of the relay that are different.

When I called the place that sold the kit to me they said that that was the correct kit that was called for for the part number that I gave them. Plus, there are several other components in the kit. One small black part that I have no idea where it would go, and these two other white and black parts that appear the same as what's already part of the relay. What am I supposed to do with these? It's almost like there are supposed to be four different relays in the kit...according to the instructions.

Am I supposed to reterminate the wiring in order to make this new relay fit?

Anybody have any idea what I am talking about? Man I hope so cause I really need to get this thing fixed.


Thanks...Randy
 
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  #2  
Old 03-10-09, 01:05 AM
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OK, I finally figured it out, and I am going to post here what I have learned so that it will hopefully help out someone else in the future.

For anyone doing this for the first time, remember this. The compressor has three small, round, steel prongs sticking out of it for the start device connector. The ptc relay and the overload protector makeup the start device. The ptc relay is the device that mounts to the top two prongs and the overload protector mounts to the bottom single prong. I don't know if this is standard for all compressors but I know it is for the EGY80 and EGY90 compressors. I think I did read somewhere during my research of this that they all are standard, but I can't swear to that.

Turns out the kit I was sold was the correct kit after all. (it's a good thing I only cussed out the salesman under my breath) The problem is there are six different parts in the kit, but only three of them were used for my configuration, and the instructions are not written very well. That's because I think that whoever wrote them didn't expect the average DIY'er to be doing this job. There are two large white ptc relays in the kit. Each one has an overload protector already installed. These were extra, I guess intended for other type applications. Plus, there is one overload protector, by itself, that is left over. There were two of these but I had to use one for my install.

This is what was confusing. The instructions mention that there are parts for two different styles but they aren't very explicit about which are for what application. In my case, I removed a large white ptc relay that had the overload protector installed inside. After reading the instructions over and over I finally realized that the small black thingy that was in the kit was actually my new ptc relay, and I had to separately install one of the new overload protectors from the kit along with this relay. Completely different setup from what I removed.

The overload protectors are fairly well marked and referenced to in the instructions, and the two large white ptc relays in the kit are marked with part numbers as well, and they are referenced to in the instructions also. But that tiny, black thingy, which I now know is a ptc relay was not referenced to at all. It had some markings on it but nothing similar to the other parts, so I figured it was for some other obscure application that was not related to mine. It was shown in a picture, but I ignored it for the same reason as above.

I kept trying to figure out how to install one of the larger white ptc relays, like what I had removed. Each one would have mounted to the compressor just fine, as that part is the same for all of them, but then none of my wires would have connected to it as that part was completely different.

Once I got it all sorted out I hooked up the existing wires with no problems and now it's running and making cold air.

This was a very simple job to do and now that I know about it I could do it again in thirty minutes, start to finish. I know it had to have saved me a couple hundred dollars for a service call, but actually more than that, as the wife and I were ready to just go out and buy a new fridge cause I thought the compressor was fried.

Hope this helps someone else.Beer 4U2
 
  #3  
Old 03-10-09, 02:37 AM
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Need the model # to help. You obviously did not get the factory service part, but a "universal" replacement which probably will not adequately protect your compressor during power surges.
Also, did you wire in the run capacitor if it had one?
 
  #4  
Old 03-11-09, 02:02 PM
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Yes, I wired in the run capacitor. It is the black rectangular device that sits behind the compressor.

The model of the fridge is SS25AFXKQ00
SN-SL4545961

During my extensive research of this issue I did come across a couple messages stating that some of the replacement ptc relays could damage the compressor over a period of time. Most were related to the 3N1 or the Kick Start relays. I did a lot of searching for the correct part for this device and everywhere always led me right back to this kit. I could not find the exact, same part as I removed. The guy at the appliance store where I bought the kit told me that this kit was produced by whirlpool to replace my device.

Thanks for your interest and concern.
 
  #5  
Old 03-12-09, 04:17 PM
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Same problem in Orlando

My fridge starting smoking today -- same problem as yours; old relay is completely different from new relay. I didn't get any instructions with mine. What's the wiring configuration?
 
  #6  
Old 03-12-09, 05:53 PM
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nevermind, I figured it out with a Google search. Didn't expect a bunch of extra parts left over.
 
  #7  
Old 03-12-09, 11:54 PM
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I should have included this in my first post but here's a copy of the instructions that were with my kit...

http://www.servicematters.com/docs/p...t/8201792B.pdf
 
  #8  
Old 04-28-09, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rcash54 View Post
OK, I finally figured it out, and I am going to post here what I have learned so that it will hopefully help out someone else in the future.

For anyone doing this for the first time, remember this. The compressor has three small, round, steel prongs sticking out of it for the start device connector. The ptc relay and the overload protector makeup the start device. The ptc relay is the device that mounts to the top two prongs and the overload protector mounts to the bottom single prong. I don't know if this is standard for all compressors but I know it is for the EGY80 and EGY90 compressors. I think I did read somewhere during my research of this that they all are standard, but I can't swear to that.

Turns out the kit I was sold was the correct kit after all. (it's a good thing I only cussed out the salesman under my breath) The problem is there are six different parts in the kit, but only three of them were used for my configuration, and the instructions are not written very well. That's because I think that whoever wrote them didn't expect the average DIY'er to be doing this job. There are two large white ptc relays in the kit. Each one has an overload protector already installed. These were extra, I guess intended for other type applications. Plus, there is one overload protector, by itself, that is left over. There were two of these but I had to use one for my install.

This is what was confusing. The instructions mention that there are parts for two different styles but they aren't very explicit about which are for what application. In my case, I removed a large white ptc relay that had the overload protector installed inside. After reading the instructions over and over I finally realized that the small black thingy that was in the kit was actually my new ptc relay, and I had to separately install one of the new overload protectors from the kit along with this relay. Completely different setup from what I removed.

The overload protectors are fairly well marked and referenced to in the instructions, and the two large white ptc relays in the kit are marked with part numbers as well, and they are referenced to in the instructions also. But that tiny, black thingy, which I now know is a ptc relay was not referenced to at all. It had some markings on it but nothing similar to the other parts, so I figured it was for some other obscure application that was not related to mine. It was shown in a picture, but I ignored it for the same reason as above.

I kept trying to figure out how to install one of the larger white ptc relays, like what I had removed. Each one would have mounted to the compressor just fine, as that part is the same for all of them, but then none of my wires would have connected to it as that part was completely different.

Once I got it all sorted out I hooked up the existing wires with no problems and now it's running and making cold air.

This was a very simple job to do and now that I know about it I could do it again in thirty minutes, start to finish. I know it had to have saved me a couple hundred dollars for a service call, but actually more than that, as the wife and I were ready to just go out and buy a new fridge cause I thought the compressor was fried.

Hope this helps someone else.Beer 4U2
rcash54,

Thank you very much for the info. It was very very useful. I read it and fixed my Kenmore side by side with the same kit # 8201786. I got it from Sears the dealer for Kenmore. The part is made by Whirlpool. This is a replacement part and does not look like the original at all.

When I opened the box I was lost. As you said the manual did not explain what part to use in various options and I had no clue how to fix it. Then I googled and found your post. I had exactly the same problem as you did but you had explained it very nicely and I fixed it exactly as you mentioned.

Only thing that was different in my case is after fixing the part, when I powered it the fridge would not start. I was very disappointed that it did not work. Left it connected overnight and in the morning to my surprise it had already started working during the night and had reached the regular coolness.

I don't know why it did not start immediately and started few hours later. Does any body has any idea why it did that? That info would help.

I specially joined DIY to let you know that it was very useful.

Thanks rcash54 once again.
 
  #9  
Old 04-30-09, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by nng28 View Post
I don't know why it did not start immediately and started few hours later. Does any body has any idea why it did that? That info would help.
Cold control or defrost timer stuck perhaps. If say it did not start at first, but started within a half hour, I'd say the defrost timer just happened to be on start of the defrost cycle. But if it took hours to finally start, then I can only think of the two things I listed, off hand, anyway.

If you have a newer style fridge with a control board in it, I'm not really up on all the nuances these may add to complicate matters, possible relays, reset times, or whatever.
 
  #10  
Old 04-30-09, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
Cold control or defrost timer stuck perhaps. If say it did not start at first, but started within a half hour, I'd say the defrost timer just happened to be on start of the defrost cycle. But if it took hours to finally start, then I can only think of the two things I listed, off hand, anyway.

If you have a newer style fridge with a control board in it, I'm not really up on all the nuances these may add to complicate matters, possible relays, reset times, or whatever.
Let me add - The fridge was not working for atleast last 24+ hours. It was at room temperature so that rules out defrost cycle issue.
 
  #11  
Old 05-01-09, 04:10 PM
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But what if the defrost timer clock simply stopped ticking for a while, while it was already in the defrost mode, but then started ticking again? That was what I had in mind.

But who knows. Has it been working fine since?

And how old or new of a fridge is this? And is it a digitally controlled one, or no?
 
  #12  
Old 05-04-09, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
But what if the defrost timer clock simply stopped ticking for a while, while it was already in the defrost mode, but then started ticking again? That was what I had in mind.

But who knows. Has it been working fine since?

And how old or new of a fridge is this? And is it a digitally controlled one, or no?
It is about 7 years old. Never had any problems so far. It works fine since then. Its analog controlled.
Thanks for the interest.
 
  #13  
Old 05-05-09, 06:26 AM
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Adn thank you for the feedback.
 
  #14  
Old 06-05-09, 03:49 PM
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compressor male plug side

there's some good info in this post ... and the instructions w/ the relay(s) are a little spars in a few areas.

My current issue is when the relay fried it's self, it left a small bit of metal on the compressor (EGY90) plug which is the male side. A fine file doesn't seem to do the trick nor does trying to pry the extra metal off w/ a screwdriver. Any ideas?
 
  #15  
Old 06-05-09, 04:14 PM
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Probably you are not seeing any headway with the fine file, even though it may be working? Maybe you need to go courser. Or, a Dremel or like-type tool might work also. But you'd have to work it like a surgeon or dentist. Some of the attachments have diamond impregnated in them.

How high does the gob stick out? This might determine what method one chooses to use to expedite matters. For example if say a gob stuck way out and any grinding or filing was taking too long, maybe you could buy/use the right size die and knock it down to something manageable and then file, sand or grind the rest. Or if one part of the gob stuck out enough, a very fine hacksaw could be used to cut it down to something manageable.

But you do not want to use any course tool that is going to create too much jarring on that pin. That is why a high speed Dremel- or like tool might be best. Then maybe emory cloth it at the very end.
 
  #16  
Old 06-05-09, 04:31 PM
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I would be very cautious about using any kind of grinding tool in there. If you cut into the Fusite you'll ruin the compressor. I think the suggestion to use a coarser file is good.
 
  #17  
Old 06-05-09, 07:26 PM
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Thank you guys. Ended up buying a dremel tool and grind down the glob of metal. The file was just not doing it and later realized the dremel w/ a wheel bit got better angles on the plug. Got the new relay in and referig is working.

When the relay burnt out it charged the capacitor. So I didn't put it in. The instructions said the capacitor was optional so it's not in. Tomorrow I was going to go to the part store and ask but if one of you know how important the capacitor is... let me know.
 
  #18  
Old 06-06-09, 10:28 AM
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fyi ...The parts guy said the capacitor was only needed for start up.

and thanks all for your help and this post
 
  #19  
Old 06-06-09, 11:47 AM
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Let us know how it all comes out in the end.

..........................................

Sorry, just reread/noticed this:

Got the new relay in and referig is working.
 
  #20  
Old 07-07-09, 04:46 PM
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please helpi did as you said but if you put the ptc relay in 2 prongs on top how do you get the overload intoprong wont fit do you have a picture with the way it goes pleadse help
 
  #21  
Old 07-07-09, 09:00 PM
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are you using the right parts?

http://www.servicematters.com/docs/p...t/8201792B.pdf
 
  #22  
Old 07-08-09, 12:52 AM
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Yes im using pct relay on top 2 prongs and overlay on bottom 1 prong but the overload wont fit its to big the over load use to fit just on three prongs itself but if relay has to go on top the overload wont fit in prong
 
  #23  
Old 07-08-09, 12:54 AM
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they told me the ptc relay is the black piece with to medal things on each side for wires
is that rite also theres no where to put 3rd wire
 
  #24  
Old 07-08-09, 05:29 AM
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there are 2 relays and 2 overloads in the kit . are you using the right parts? did you try some of the other combinations? I don't think you have the right parts. What do the instructions with the parts say? What is the part # of the parts you have? What is the model # of your fridge?
 
  #25  
Old 07-08-09, 10:35 AM
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nd from compairing to yours mine is same set up as yours i have the 90 commpreser also
also I have went to whirlpool appliance place and they show me to fix it is same parts I have and they said there wasnt no other parts I had rite ones so thenI called they sent me picture and its the same i have but they told me that black thing with metal things on it was the relay Please help
 
  #26  
Old 07-08-09, 10:41 AM
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I have a whirlpool the 90 commpresser 2 over loads 2 white plastick things on each side with black on bottom a wire thing with a l shaped plastick thing on top the a black thing with 2 metal things on side and a cover
 
  #27  
Old 07-08-09, 10:43 AM
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sorry model number Gs6shaxkb02
 
  #28  
Old 07-08-09, 11:29 AM
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  #29  
Old 07-08-09, 02:31 PM
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style 1 or style 2?

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
 
  #30  
Old 07-08-09, 02:37 PM
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Im talking about what it says in manual
 
  #31  
Old 07-08-09, 08:38 PM
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so am I- do you have style 1 or style 2?
 
  #32  
Old 07-09-09, 02:11 AM
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I had style 2 but the parts is for style 1 and they said that will work
 
  #33  
Old 07-09-09, 04:10 PM
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ok ill put it this way my old part to my whirlpool was 221294 i belive but the new part inchanges with the style 1 in manual ok could you show me the picture of the relay that goes on to the top 2 prongs and then the picture of overload that goes on bottom 1 prong and then the other piece that goes next please because im not understanding and I appriciate anyones help I am disabled and i dont have the money for appliance repair and have no food at this time do to i lost it all because of refridgerater not working so i need help imidiately thanks
 
  #34  
Old 07-09-09, 04:13 PM
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ok ill put it this way my old part to my whirlpool was 221294 i belive but the new part inchanges with the style 1 in manual ok could you show me the picture of the relay that goes on to the top 2 prongs and then the picture of overload that goes on bottom 1 prong and then the other piece that goes next please because im not understanding and I appriciate anyones help I am disabled and i dont have the money for appliance repair and have no food at this time do to i lost it all because of refridgerater not working so i need help imidiately thanks
 
  #35  
Old 07-09-09, 05:13 PM
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What's the deal that you just can't get the right parts and see where they go, at an appliance parts/service store. Sounds like you bought something different than what was on there. How come? Why go through such a hassle? One of the connectors is not even the right size, it sounds like? I'd be afraid to put something like this in, in case it is rated for some other unit. If it was for your unit, why wouldn't the connector be right?

But I see now you are caught between a rock and a hard place. You are poor and you already spent money on parts you cannot take back. I tried tried to bring up that picture you posted but it says "this page cannot be found".

I am not knowledgeable enough to help with retrofiting a part that you simply aren't replacing of the same type. And of the 3 compressor pins, how would one be guaranteed to know which pin was supposed to have what part on it, for sure.

Where did you get the parts? Why is it they knew enough to sell you those specific ones, yet they do not know how it should go? Have you asked them? Are they universal parts?
 
  #36  
Old 07-09-09, 06:16 PM
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they are whirlpool parts I asked them how to put on and they said the instructions are in with part but there not real explanatory so i have went 2 difrent places whirlpool lows . ive called 4 difrent places sears whirlpool easy appliance best buy to see if i have rite part and every one of them traced it down and said I have rite parts but I asked for help they told me to follow instructions in manual but its not explanatory
 
  #37  
Old 07-09-09, 06:34 PM
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ok what I can do is give you my email address and you can email me so i can email these pics of parts to you i got if thats ok letme know and if ok ill give email
 
  #38  
Old 07-10-09, 01:55 AM
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part # 2154697 is not in the kit? What is the model # of your fridge?
 
  #39  
Old 07-10-09, 02:35 AM
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whirlpool gs6shaxkb02 thats my model number
the old part was number 2212194 you can see the kit that i have at https://www.repairclinic.com

it will show you picture of what I have could you please help ok what i did that black thing wich is ptc relay i put on top 2 prongs ok but wich part is the overload that goes on bottom is it the big box or is it one of the 2 littel white pieces ok and where does the jumper wire go and where does the red wire blue wire and white wire go and what do they mean by the harness wire im sorry to be so miss understanding and a headach to ya allty for help
 

Last edited by sweets; 07-10-09 at 03:55 AM.
  #40  
Old 07-10-09, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by daddyjohn View Post
part # 2154697 is not in the kit? What is the model # of your fridge?
whirlpool gs6shaxkb02 thats my model number
the old part was number 2212194 you can see the kit that i have at EasyApplianceParts.com!
 
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