Crosley Washer (CAWB427JQO) Will Leak Only In Spin Cycle

I put the machine on some milk cartons and now see where the leak is coming from but I don't know what to replace. It is just about dead on in the middle, part that it looks like the leak is coming from has a metal washer looking thing on one end and a spring on the other, it looks like it goes around in circles. I also has a loose belt that goes around it. I think that the water comes from behind that disk looking thing.

I took pictures from digital camera just don't know how to upload them.

 

Where is this medal thing in the center, side, under the tub ?????

 

i think you are talking about the basket drive

your center tub seal may be leaking

 

yes, it is right under the tub, would this explain a grinding noise that I am also now hearing? I also twisted the agitator as if it was moving and the machine does not leak but if I turn the basket it will begin to leak, not huge amounts just drops, by the end of the wash it is a good size puddle.

 

Here is a link to your machine, look basket and part 16 is the seal, whirlpool type machine not to hard to do, Plan 2 hours.
CROSLEY | Model #CAWB427JQ0 | WASHER | SearsPartsDirect.com

 

Thank you for the response

Is there anywhere that I can find directions on how to do this?

Will this also solve the grinding noise?

Is the part called a "Gasket, centerpost, switch "
or a "Main Outer Tub Seal"? Don't know what to call it.

 

Tub seal, grinding is most likely the drive coupler.
Here is a link to what I think your problem is
Whirpool Drive-Coupling Replacement
The only thing I do different is not to take cabinet off, I pull the machine out from wall far enough to lean it back on hoses(far enough to lean back by it's self) and work under machine. Water pump can stay on hoses and push to the left and fold hoses to stay out of way. when you reinstall motor be sure to take extra care on the way the pins line up to the holes in the rubber piece. Lots of practice takes me about 15 minutes but know every tool I will need. Give about a hour for job.
After cabinet off you will have to take off the agitator, top tub ring . remove the screws that hold spring brackets on, disconnect hose to tub (care full will be water there.) lift tub off shaft. Some of the instructions are for the drive coupler. On this don't lean machine back.

 

you will need a spanner nut wrench to get the basket out. this is job only for a serious do it yourselfer.

 

Thank You once again for you help

I feel ready to take on both projects can they both be done one after another or would it be best to do one, run the machine then jump to the next one?

I see a belt that is near where I will be working. Is it normal for it just to be there because it is not connected to anything. It just goes around in circles when the machine goes on rinse. What I did notice is that on each exact opposite end the belt looks twisted. I cannot seem to understand if that is how it is supposed to be or it also needs to be replaced. It does not look worn out

Once Again Thank You for Your Patience And Help.
Without your help I would have a huge repair bill.

 

that is not a belt, its a silencer band to keep the brake shoes from squealing. dont worry about it

 

As far as the Center Tub Seal When I do get there does it slide up or down? Do I need to lube the new one to slide in?
Any other tips you pros may have that could make things run easier?

Thank You, Again

 

Forgot to put the part about taking basket out, Tub seal is in the center of the tub and will come out with the tub. A small amount of lube will help it slide down the shaft after you install it in the tub.

 

As far as the lube, anything special ?

I read someone even used dish soap, is that okay?

As far as the coupling, when they come together does any grease go in there, or is it dry?

 

Liquid laundry soap would work well. Coupler goes in dry. Good luck. Keep us posted on repair.

 

Okay guys, just finished both jobs took about 1 1/2 hours to do. The only problem is that it is leaking from the middle (same spot) but now even in the wash cycle. I think I am going to take it apart and start again from zero, my only guess is that maybe the spanner nut is not tight enough. I am going to look at the seal if for some reason it is worn out, with that test wash, I just did, I will have to go to Sears tomorrow morning and get anther seal. Any thought's? I am going outside to give it another try. Hope I find the problem

 

Spanner nut would not have anything to do with leak, Look for a crack or hole in plastic tub. Did have one recently where the brak tube leaked. Only one in 10 years I have found that leaked.

 

Just took everything apart
All the Base that is under the tub is dry. It even has dust on it.
CROSLEY | Model #CAWB427JQ0 | WASHER | MACHINE BASE | SearsPartsDirect.com
So I ran the machine and the leak is no where near the Seal
It is coming from the brake and transmission area
The center post has a seal right under where the drive block goes and it is really worn out.
My guess is that the water is going in through that seal going in the center post and leaking where the brake is.
(That would explain why the base is dry)

Looked around and I think it may be number 3 or 4 not sure.
CROSLEY | Model #CAWB427JQ0 | WASHER | BRAKE AND DRIVE TUBE | SearsPartsDirect.com

If this is the problem, how do I do it rip it off and just slide the new one down?

Thank you so much for the quick response.

I think I am becoming a pro at this takes about 15 minutes to take it apart

 

The brake assy will slide out after you remove spanner nut and drive block. Make sure it is not the seal on part 4 in this link
CROSLEY | Model #CAWB427JQ0 | WASHER | MACHINE BASE | SearsPartsDirect.com
That is the seal I recently found leaking. # 23 is bearing and seal you can replace them. I don't think the brake will leak but could be wrong.

 

I am almost sure that is the part that is leaking because it is worn out.
Lets go one step back, how do I remove drive block?
I see that #4 has those three long screws do those come off?
Then does it slide out?
CROSLEY | Model #CAWB427JQ0 | WASHER | MACHINE BASE | SearsPartsDirect.com

At this point I have the tub removed what is my next step
Can you please help me step by step
I think I am a little more confused

 

CROSLEY | Model #CAWB427JQ0 | WASHER | SearsPartsDirect.com
Look under Agitator, basket part 15 is the drive block, If you have the tub out I think the drive block should be off. If not after the basket is out tap the drive block off the shaft. You have to take the gearcase out (3 bolts ) the gearcase will drop out. You have to lean machine back to clear shaft. Release brake and it will pull out from bottom. go to base and parts 24 are the seals.

 

#24 is the same as 13,14,23 just all together, right?
#24 is $36.17 and 13,14,23 is $20.63 should that be right?

So I just slide it out and replace everything else in the same order that it came out right?

No grease, nothing right?

Sorry for asking so many questions

 

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ponents%20list

#1 is being a pain in the behind

Just took off spring from brake but does not slide out.
Tried hitting it from the top, I am down about half ways.
It is really hard worried I might damage something.
Have not so far. Used a piece of wood and hit it over the top.
I am waiting to see If you could suggest some other way.

I think I should have put some soap to help it slide down.

Now my worry Is when it does come out, It is going to be really hard to put it back in

Help Please

 

it usually comes down easily as you turn the brake release cam.

it could be seized to the bearings i suppose. i dont know another way other than the block of wood and hammer method.

 

Soap build up on shaft work it up and down several times, will finally come out. replacing seals anyway so don't worry about them.

 

First of all thank you for all of your help

I went in to the Sears parts store near by and a gentleman helped me. He went to the back and tried to get it out, but could not. After I told him to forget about it he still tried, for the heck of it to see if it would come out, but no go.He said if I wanted to fix it I would have to buy the whole thing, Plus seals.
Since the machine is about 12 years old, I think something bigger is soon to fail such as the motor or transmission (there is nothing else anyways). He said that the rod was rusty, and probably if there was water there, there may be some in the transmission. It is just a big risk. I would rather replace the machine with another new one.

But once again thank you for all of your helpBeer 4U2

 

Buy a Whrilpool based machine, will look different but the same machine as you have. The basic parts will change over (gearcase, clutch possible motor. even with your troubles still the best machines out there. Whrilpool, Kenmore Roper are some of the names.