Kenmore Elite Fridge Won't Run Properly


  #1  
Old 06-28-09, 06:53 PM
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Kenmore Elite Fridge Won't Run Properly

I've looked through the various threads on this forum and could not find anything that was similar enough to my problem that would be any help so I thought I would start my own.

My dad tried to fix the ice machine the other day so he unplugged it and fixed the water inlet valve screw. When he plugged it in, the lights would come on and it had the normal hum it usually had, but it won't cool now. The fans on the inside of the fridge and freezer both pump out warm air. There is no clicking noise of any sort, just no cool air.

The model number is 50209992 and next to kenmore elite it says ultrafresh on the outside and coldspot on the inside next to the Kenmore Elite title.

Is there any advice before we call in some help?
 

Last edited by charlie1515; 06-28-09 at 08:53 PM.
  #2  
Old 06-28-09, 08:47 PM
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slide the fridge out, take off the back cover and see if the compressor and the fan underneath are running. There is a small 3 digit number ahead of those numbers you posted [at the left] It will be 106, 253, 363, like that.
 
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Old 06-29-09, 11:20 AM
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I took the cover off, but the only numbers or information I could find was on the compressor, I took a picture:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...5/P1010156.jpg
 
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Old 06-29-09, 02:30 PM
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so are the fan and compressor running? Are the coils underneath real dirty? Is the compressor hot or cool to the touch? Any chance the temp control was turned off?

update

I tried 106.50209992 at Parts & Accessories | Shop & Find Lawn & Garden, Appliance Parts at Sears PartsDirect | SearsPartsDirect.com
and bingo. Your fridge was built by Whrlpool.
 

Last edited by daddyjohn; 06-29-09 at 02:34 PM. Reason: update
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Old 06-29-09, 07:23 PM
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The fan is running and the compressor feels very warm, but not burning hot or anything. The coils have a little dust, but nothing too bad. The only temp control that was changed was the one inside the fridge doors, but that was turned back on and it at normal recommended temps.

I think that the fridge just isn't sensing it needs to kick on and it might be some circuit board or temp control problem.
 

Last edited by charlie1515; 06-29-09 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 06-30-09, 04:30 AM
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look at the cooling coil in the freezer. frosted up? cool and sweaty but no frost? frost at just a small section and the rest of the coil is cool? light coating of frost on the entire coil?
 
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Old 06-30-09, 07:08 AM
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Charlie,

Your first post and last are at odds with each other.

You said in your OP that the fridge has the normal hum and does not click, which gave us the impression the compressor was running, as that is part of the entire sound a fridge makes when it runs. But in your last post, you make it sound like at least the compressor must be running at least for a while, since it is warm, but yet the fridge is not cool - and you suspect it might be temp control or board related. Btu for it to be these problems, then that must mean the compressor must not be running - at least full term.

In order for a fridge to cool, from starting out warm/unplugged, the compressor and fans must work continously to bring down the temp. The only interuption will be when it goes in defrost mode. At first, when a fridge is unplugged and warm, the temp in the freezer cannot put out super cold air because what is happening is - the hot air in the freezer is being pulled through the cooling coils, so it mixes and the freezer air being blown by the fan up there will be on the colder side, but not real cold. But as time goes on and the compressor keeps running and the temp drops, then the freezer temp further drops because colder and colder air is being pulled through the cooling coils.

If the compressor does not stay running, except for defrost cycle shut downs in between (that are many hours apart), THEN it likely be something wrong electrical/sensor related, including the 2 things you mentioned.

But if the compressor HAS been running for the bulk of the time, and it still does not get cold, then it may be that during the repair, a copper line was inadvertantly damaged. Hopefully that is not your case.
 
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Old 06-30-09, 02:16 PM
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If you read in between the lines this started out as a malfunctioning icemaker. The freezer section has to be below 20 degrees [some as low as 15] in order for the icemaker to work. The box was probably not cooling properly before the icemaker was worked on.
 
 

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