Dryer that won't stop drying

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Old 07-15-09, 12:59 PM
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Dryer that won't stop drying

I have a Magic Chef YE20HN3 Dryer which, when set on "auto dry" never stops running, although the clothes are dried OK. It works properly on a "timed" dry. I know there are Thermostats, Capacitors, Control units, and Sensors...but I need to know which might be the culprit for this model. I'd appreciate some advice from you experts out there. Thanks
 
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Old 07-15-09, 01:27 PM
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Look inside consul should be a tech sheet or wiring diagram there. Not up to speed on your dryer,
 
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Old 07-15-09, 05:47 PM
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Look on the back of the timer, you should see a small rectangular resistor. Take it off and test it's resistance; it's probably open. In timed dry, the timer motor is connected directly to 120 volts and runs full time. In auto dry, the timer motor is connected to 240 volts thru the resistor and only runs when the cycling thermostat is open. Since the timer motor is 120 volts, the resistor is necessary to drop the voltage at the timer motor to 120 volts. If the resistor is open, the timer motor will never advance. Let us know what you find.
 
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Old 07-20-09, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by daddyjohn View Post
Look on the back of the timer, you should see a small rectangular resistor. Take it off and test it's resistance; it's probably open. In timed dry, the timer motor is connected directly to 120 volts and runs full time. In auto dry, the timer motor is connected to 240 volts thru the resistor and only runs when the cycling thermostat is open. Since the timer motor is 120 volts, the resistor is necessary to drop the voltage at the timer motor to 120 volts. If the resistor is open, the timer motor will never advance. Let us know what you find.
DaddyJohn, You're a magician. It took a few days to get to it, but when I removed the top panel in the back of the machine to expose the timer, I found one of the gray resistor wires broken and disconnected from its bayonet connector. I removed the resistor and it's bayonets, soldered the bayonet back on to the resistor lead, and re-installed it. But....when I removed the bayonets, I didn't note which bayonet pin the lower lead goes to. The upper one I'm sure of. The lower lead I now have two choices. In the picture which follows, you can see the two "empty" bayonet pins. PLEASE...can you give me a clue as to which pin the lower bayonet goes onto? I Hope you can see the image I've built and am referring to. Thanks....Gordon

 
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Old 07-20-09, 12:53 PM
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oops- the second empty bayonet pin below the circles you show in the sketch does not have a wire color associated with it. Is that something you missed or is it in fact an empty pin with no attached wire? If it truely is empty, my best guess would be to use the other empty pin with the blk/red wire. Is there a wiring diagram anywhere on the dryer?
 
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Old 07-22-09, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by daddyjohn View Post
oops- the second empty bayonet pin below the circles you show in the sketch does not have a wire color associated with it. Is that something you missed or is it in fact an empty pin with no attached wire? If it truely is empty, my best guess would be to use the other empty pin with the blk/red wire. Is there a wiring diagram anywhere on the dryer?
Daddyjohn...OK....I don't have a wiring diagram. So...the upper empty bayonet pin was at an angle because there are already two wires on that section. The lower empty one was sticking straight out. I remember pulling the bayonet off the lower one "straight out", so I hooked the resistor to that one (the all alone empty one), said a short prayer, and told my wife it was fixed. She did a load and it worked!!!! It shut off when dry. I cannot thank you enough for your help. Have a good life....Gordon
 
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Old 07-22-09, 01:38 PM
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You're welcome. Maybe that lower bayonet goes straight to an internal switch. We're glad you're back in business. Thanks for the feedback.
 
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