Ice In Maytag Freezer
#1
09-25-09, 06:19 PM
Ice In Maytag Freezer
I have a Maytag fridge that ices up in the top front corner of the compartment. I think it is because the magnetic strip does not seal properly. When I close the top freezer door it seems to make a good seal, but when I close the bottom freezer door I think it some how pushes air into the freezer compartment opening the freezer door about 1/8 of an inch. The freezer door tries to close but does not seal properly. Would there be some kind of air vent some place to let the air from the lower compartment escape when the door is closed? I’m thinking if there is it might be plugged. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#2
09-26-09, 03:19 PM
When you grab the upper freezer door handle and try to open it, do you feel any resistance in doing so? The magnetic seal should be sticking pretty good. If not, that would have to be rectified.
Not knowing your unit and it's age and history and who owned it first, I have no idea if your magnet strip inside the rubber may have fell out in the past and got thrown away, got weak, or if not enough metal surface area is contacting the magnetic stipping to make it effective enough because the height of the door has to be adjusted, or the door is out of plane and not closing squarely. You can test the latter by slowly closing the door to see that within 1/8th -1/4 inch of closing, that it looks like it is closing evenly along the vertical gasket section.
If it looks racked, then you have to rerack the door, either by grabbing it and racking it, or more correct and effective is to loosen the gasket/liner screws hiding under the lip of the gasket and then while you hold the door in the perfectly racked position, which will now be easy with the screws loose, hold it in plane, and then tighten the screws. It will then remain in perfect plane! And all the magnetic gasket will hit squarely at once to help glue the door shut better.
If the magnetic door gasket is gathered and crumpled in one corner (often the hinge side) now is the time to pull the gasket evenly before retightening those screws. As this could be contributory to your symptom. I've done this a lot and fixed what appeared to be junk gaskets.
I've never heard of a blocked vent causing this, nor have I ever gotten a call for anything like this at any rentals. But I have seen doors that just do not 'glue' closed very well, for various reasons like I mentioned.
Not knowing your unit and it's age and history and who owned it first, I have no idea if your magnet strip inside the rubber may have fell out in the past and got thrown away, got weak, or if not enough metal surface area is contacting the magnetic stipping to make it effective enough because the height of the door has to be adjusted, or the door is out of plane and not closing squarely. You can test the latter by slowly closing the door to see that within 1/8th -1/4 inch of closing, that it looks like it is closing evenly along the vertical gasket section.
If it looks racked, then you have to rerack the door, either by grabbing it and racking it, or more correct and effective is to loosen the gasket/liner screws hiding under the lip of the gasket and then while you hold the door in the perfectly racked position, which will now be easy with the screws loose, hold it in plane, and then tighten the screws. It will then remain in perfect plane! And all the magnetic gasket will hit squarely at once to help glue the door shut better.
If the magnetic door gasket is gathered and crumpled in one corner (often the hinge side) now is the time to pull the gasket evenly before retightening those screws. As this could be contributory to your symptom. I've done this a lot and fixed what appeared to be junk gaskets.
I've never heard of a blocked vent causing this, nor have I ever gotten a call for anything like this at any rentals. But I have seen doors that just do not 'glue' closed very well, for various reasons like I mentioned.
Last edited by ecman51; 09-26-09 at 03:33 PM. Reason: added more
#3
10-05-09, 04:41 AM
Originally Posted by ecman51`
When you grab the upper freezer door handle and try to open it, do you feel any resistance in doing so? The magnetic seal should be sticking pretty good. If not, that would have to be rectified.
Not knowing your unit and it's age and history and who owned it first, I have no idea if your magnet strip inside the rubber may have fell out in the past and got thrown away, got weak, or if not enough metal surface area is contacting the magnetic stipping to make it effective enough because the height of the door has to be adjusted, or the door is out of plane and not closing squarely. You can test the latter by slowly closing the door to see that within 1/8th -1/4 inch of closing, that it looks like it is closing evenly along the vertical gasket section.
If it looks racked, then you have to rerack the door, either by grabbing it and racking it, or more correct and effective is to loosen the gasket/liner screws hiding under the lip of the gasket and then while you hold the door in the perfectly racked position, which will now be easy with the screws loose, hold it in plane, and then tighten the screws. It will then remain in perfect plane! And all the magnetic gasket will hit squarely at once to help glue the door shut better.
If the magnetic door gasket is gathered and crumpled in one corner (often the hinge side) now is the time to pull the gasket evenly before retightening those screws. As this could be contributory to your symptom. I've done this a lot and fixed what appeared to be junk gaskets.
I've never heard of a blocked vent causing this, nor have I ever gotten a call for anything like this at any rentals. But I have seen doors that just do not 'glue' closed very well, for various reasons like I mentioned.
Not knowing your unit and it's age and history and who owned it first, I have no idea if your magnet strip inside the rubber may have fell out in the past and got thrown away, got weak, or if not enough metal surface area is contacting the magnetic stipping to make it effective enough because the height of the door has to be adjusted, or the door is out of plane and not closing squarely. You can test the latter by slowly closing the door to see that within 1/8th -1/4 inch of closing, that it looks like it is closing evenly along the vertical gasket section.
If it looks racked, then you have to rerack the door, either by grabbing it and racking it, or more correct and effective is to loosen the gasket/liner screws hiding under the lip of the gasket and then while you hold the door in the perfectly racked position, which will now be easy with the screws loose, hold it in plane, and then tighten the screws. It will then remain in perfect plane! And all the magnetic gasket will hit squarely at once to help glue the door shut better.
If the magnetic door gasket is gathered and crumpled in one corner (often the hinge side) now is the time to pull the gasket evenly before retightening those screws. As this could be contributory to your symptom. I've done this a lot and fixed what appeared to be junk gaskets.
I've never heard of a blocked vent causing this, nor have I ever gotten a call for anything like this at any rentals. But I have seen doors that just do not 'glue' closed very well, for various reasons like I mentioned.
It was a gasket alinement problem. The fridge is a newer one, just out of warrenty. I actually paid an extra $75 to have the the doors changed from left-hand open to right-hand open when the fridge was delivered. The guy did a poor job. After reading your post I looked closely and yea it was way out. I should have seen it before. I loosened the hinges and lined it up and all is good. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
Zip
#4
10-05-09, 04:30 PM
Thanks for the update.
But always remember that if a door gets out of rack, that the liner can be loosened by all those gazillions of hexhead screws and laid flat, with handle removed, to bring it back in perfect plane. And that in theory, should cause the door to close true and even.
I have a hunch not too many people know about how the liner plays a role in a racked door!
But always remember that if a door gets out of rack, that the liner can be loosened by all those gazillions of hexhead screws and laid flat, with handle removed, to bring it back in perfect plane. And that in theory, should cause the door to close true and even.
I have a hunch not too many people know about how the liner plays a role in a racked door!
