Refrigerator woes

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Old 11-20-09, 10:22 AM
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Refrigerator woes

Okay, I'm going to refrain from identifying the brand by name because I'm liable to say something that will make me have to ban myself.

Four month old refrigerator. Last Friday stopped cooling in the fridge compartment. The company could not get a tech out until Tuesday. When he arrived he had a loaner service truck that had about 3 spare parts on it, naturally nothing to fix our unit. Said he'd have to order the part and would be back Friday (actually he said Thursday, but we were booked with other things, so he said fine see you Friday). Part delivered by UPS yesterday (I was a little surprised at that, but okay). Waited around until 11:00 this morning and then called the 800 number to see what was keeping the tech. They say we are scheduled from 1-5:00 tomorrow. Tow Guy has a melt down on the phone including ripped the supervisor a new one and told them I was going to install the part myself. I check the part that was delivered and look up it's location; easy R&R I figure (it's the evaporator/circulation fan motor behind the back wall of the freezer compartment. I pop off the panel replace the motor and give it a test turn-on; fan doesn't run. Hmmm, okay, went ahead and buttoned everything up and turned it back on to wait and see if the fan will eventually come on. It's now 20 minutes later and the compressor is running, the freezer compartment is reading about 25 (been dropping steadily) and the fridge section reading about 45. The fan is not running.

SO, question; am I missing something here or shouldn't that fan have kicked right on? Looking like my Saturday afternoon is going to be shot and sure as heck the tech will show up without whatever part it may still need to fix it.
 
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Old 11-20-09, 12:58 PM
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Yes it should have. It should run with the compressor.

On older fridges, some had feezer door buttons that would shut off the fan when door was opened. Does yours? If not, since you have newer fridge, you have a circuit board in yours? Often wierd mystery problems that make no sense in any other way are due to a faulty board. Obviously you could have a wiring problem somewhere, but where. I've never experienced such an outage, personally. You'd have to look at schematic and trace evap fan wiring back to source and inspect. Also double check in freezer compartment to make sure some connection did not pull apart due to previous icing. Often mfg. gives only enough wire to reach, and does not allow for stretch from ice build up at coil.
 
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Old 11-20-09, 01:48 PM
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Thanks, ec; I figured it was going to be over my head as soon as I plugged the new fan in and it didn't run. Going to be stuck waiting on the tech tomorrow; just how I planned on spending my Saturday. Hopefully he can read a schematic (and maybe have some spare parts on the truck this time), but I'm not optimistic.
 
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Old 11-20-09, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by the_tow_guy View Post
Okay, I'm going to refrain from identifying the brand by name because I'm liable to say something that will make me have to ban myself.
I have read plenty of posts on this forum, including by mods, who have bad-mouthed products. That would be an odd one though to ban ones-self. Althouuuugh......politicians give themselves their own salary and raises and bennies, sooooo.....

..............................................................................
I'm sorry I can't help you DIY it better than what I have explained. You'd think that you having mechanical skills, would just start tearing into and checking it out.

Believe it or not, much of this stuff is not THAT much rocket science. Sure, the actual theories of operation and specs pertaining to refrigeration takes some schooling (or your own research) and may be intimidating. But running down outages is sort of basic whether it be for cars, dryers, water heaters,.... or fridges.

The same general procedures need to be followed, such as needing a voltmeter, having a few basic tools, an understanding of electrical wiring to a basic degree, maybe an ability to read a wiring diagram (some are easier than others), etc.

Let us know how it comes out.
 
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Old 11-20-09, 05:18 PM
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the_tow_guy,

Some Amana built refrigerators will not run the evaporator fan motor unless the defrost thermostat is closed. There is the possibility you have a bad defrost thermostat. Since this is a newer refrigerator, the fan could be controlled by a circuit board as ecman51 mentioned.
 
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Old 11-21-09, 07:26 AM
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Thanks, it's not an Amana, but the defrost angle would make sense. Will post back what the tech comes up with today. I have every expectation that he'll have neither a defrost thermostat or a circuit board on the truck and the fridge will out of commission for another 3 or 4 days.
 
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Old 11-21-09, 01:44 PM
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Okay, just slap me - the doors have to be closed (top AND bottom) for the fan to run. The tech gets here, opens the door while I explain what I had done in his absence, scratches his head for a minute and then puts his thumb on the door switch - fan comes on. DOH! Sort of begs the question though of, well was the original blower motor bad or also, obviously, simply not running because the door was open.

Beer 4U2
 
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Old 11-22-09, 11:15 AM
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Oh my! You could not hear it run, through the door, eh? This ranks up there with calling the tv guy out who points out the plug got unplugged perhaps by the cat. Unless........

Do you actually have push button type switches? Or are they flatter rocker type switches that need to brush the top of each liner to activate? With the latter ones, if a fridge gets caddywhompus so that it turns into a parallelogram, and the door top sinks lower, the rocker switch may not get contacted. This scenario is not all that uncommon and can even leave the lightbulb on inside.

With a door jamb pushbutton type switch the door would either have to be ajar, and you'd think rather considerably - and/or the switch worn to the point it has to be pushed in farther than normal to click.
 
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Old 11-22-09, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by the_tow_guy View Post
Okay, just slap me - the doors have to be closed (top AND bottom) for the fan to run. The tech gets here, opens the door while I explain what I had done in his absence, scratches his head for a minute and then puts his thumb on the door switch - fan comes on. DOH! Sort of begs the question though of, well was the original blower motor bad or also, obviously, simply not running because the door was open.

Beer 4U2
well, you did say you had a problem. The tech came out and diagnosed it and ordered parts so I would say the original one was bad...


that is as long as the thing is working properly now.


btw: consider yourself lucky. A lot of places will void warranties if a tech other than certified and approved warranty repairmen touch the thing.
 
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Old 11-22-09, 01:08 PM
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TG, now it's time to check the light bulb to make sure it is going out when you close the door. Could be a bad switch.....never know.
 
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Old 11-22-09, 06:25 PM
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Checked and checked. No problems with the switches. They stick out of the frame between the top and bottom doors and are activated by little nubs that stick our from the doors. You only have to push them about half way in actuate.

And, yes, the call-taker warned me about the warranty, but what the hey, only got 8 months left on it anyway and the tech signed off on the repair.
 
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Old 11-23-09, 08:20 AM
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Well, we have learned at the beginning that your fridge was not cooling. Then a new fan was put in. Then you called back that you heard no fan running? But I can't recall you said anything about the fridge not cooling that second time. So is the fridge fixed now since the fan was put in? Have you made sure the nubs line up with the buttons?
 
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Old 11-23-09, 09:37 AM
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Ya, in other words:

is the beer cold yet? We're on our way.
 
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Old 11-23-09, 10:34 AM
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Well, the beer was cold; sorry, but it's all gone now. Beer 4U2
 
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