Kenmore top-load clothes washer drum/tub is loose and banging

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  #1  
Old 02-01-10, 03:05 PM
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Kenmore top-load clothes washer drum/tub is loose and banging

Hi -

I have a Kenmore series 80 model 110 top load clothes washer that started getting really loud, banging, vibrating, at the end of the spin cycle. I noticed that the drum/tub/basket seems super loose like its off a track and is easily moved by hand.

I apologize if this has already been covered in the forum. I looked around and couldn't find anything.

Thanks for any help anyone can provide. This site rocks!

- Mochs
 
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  #2  
Old 02-01-10, 05:15 PM
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Tilt washer back against wall and look at the springs (4) 3 around tub and one in back from tub to base. Most likely back spring is broken or mount hole rusted through. If hole rusted through drill a new hole near where old hole was and install spring there.
 
  #3  
Old 02-01-10, 06:09 PM
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If the sound is noticed ONLY at the end of the spin cyle:

*Thump-Thump-Thump-Thump*

This will be a worn Agitator Drive Block.

This repair requires some level of skill to correct (and one specialty tool)

__________________________________

If the sounds occur DURING the spin cycle:

*Bang/Boom/Rattle/Etc*

This is most likely a tub assy that is not in it's proper position on the superstructure/frame and/or as Pugsl indicated---a missing suspension support spring.

To correct this--also requires a bit of previous experience being able to identifying whether or not the tub is out of position on the frame.
The rear spring however---if found hanging---is easy enough to correct with a drill unless the spring lacks a *hook* from corrosion.

Bottom line---this repair can be more than a DIYer wants to tackle. A competent servicer can resolve either fault rather quickly.
 
  #4  
Old 02-01-10, 07:44 PM
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All springs appear intact on the bottom. It happened at the end of the spin cycle.

So do you think its the Agitator Drive Block? Could it be something else as well?

Anybody know how to aquire directions for this fix and what tool is needed?

Thanks!
 
  #5  
Old 02-01-10, 08:47 PM
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Start with this...


Click the arrow on "Laundry Products"

Look for...

01-01-97--------L55


Technical Reference - Job Aids
 
  #6  
Old 02-02-10, 02:40 AM
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End of spin cycle drive block like john said. Spin cycle stops and durm slowly stops bouncing orve worn out slots in drive block. Need to know how to remove cabinet, Link will tell how
Whirpool Drive-Coupling Replacement
Also you need a spanner wrench. Most appliance repair stores will have one.
 
  #7  
Old 02-02-10, 04:35 AM
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if you replace the block, turn it upside down to use as a gauge so you can take big flat head to bend the tabs on the basket drive out so the block wont jump off again.
 
  #8  
Old 02-02-10, 05:22 AM
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CORRECTION--CORRECTION--CORRECTION

A faux pas (gaffe/indiscretion/blunder/mistake/howler/misstep/boob/clanger/blooper) in my post...

NOT *Agitator* Drive Block...

***Tub Drive Block***


FAUX PAS: French translation---*False Step*
 

Last edited by john63; 02-02-10 at 06:11 AM.
  #9  
Old 02-02-10, 05:41 AM
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Another faux pas---and we all seem to have a day when it comes in spades...

Pugsl showed a link to a *drive coupling* repair--which is incorrect.

Should be THIS one--and oddly enough--the link title itself has an error (agitator drive block):

Replacing Agitator Drive Block for Whirlpool Washing Machines - RepairAve.com
 
  #10  
Old 02-03-10, 02:43 AM
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Thanks for all your help on this guys!

Moch
 
  #11  
Old 02-03-10, 03:09 AM
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One more thought - would a worn drive block allow the basket to be so loose and easily moveable inside the washer?
 
  #12  
Old 02-03-10, 03:31 AM
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^yes............................................
 
  #13  
Old 02-03-10, 07:37 PM
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Once again thanks for the help. Going to get on it tomorrow if I can find the part locally. I'll post again when something inevitably goes sideways.
 
  #14  
Old 02-08-10, 10:30 AM
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OK, so I am attempting to tackle this fix today and have found the drive block locally here in Denver but am having some trouble finding a spanner wrench. What specifically is this wrench used for? One guy I talked said he had a "tub nut wrench" for a GE but I have no idea if this is the same wrench or if it will even fit my Kenmore. Please let me know if any of you guys have any ideas.

Thanks for all the help!
 
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Old 02-08-10, 02:31 PM
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Have you taken out the agitator yet? The nut you need the spanner wrench for is on center shaft and has 4 slots in it. Nut has to come off to remove basket to get to drive block. Some GE tub nut wrenches are 2 part one for Whrilpool and a adapter for GE nuts.
 
  #16  
Old 02-08-10, 03:45 PM
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I haven't gotten that far yet. Still haven't been able to find the wrench. Is is a manufacturer specific wrench or am I gonna be able to get this thing off some other way? I was just going to wait til I can't get any farther, see what I'm dealing with, and then go to Home Depot to see if I can find something I can use there.
 

Last edited by moch68; 02-08-10 at 06:24 PM.
  #17  
Old 02-08-10, 05:56 PM
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Might be able to use a pipe wrench on nut. You have to hammer on wrench to turn nut.
 
  #18  
Old 02-08-10, 07:41 PM
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OK, got the spanner nut off with pipe wrench and a little banging. THEN I hit the snag. I can't seem to remove the basket. Is the basket (which is the porcelain thing with all the holes, right?) supposed to come out by itself? Because it seems fused with the part it sits inside, the thick plastic outer basket. I can lift up on the whole thing, but the motor and all moves with it, and that doesn't seem right. I noticed some what look like clips around the top where the basket and inner basket join. Am I supposed to pop these somehow to get the basket out by itself?

Thank you gentlemen.
 
  #19  
Old 02-08-10, 07:44 PM
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Also, looking at the pics in the link, it looks like everything except the plastic outermost liner is supposed to come out, but its definitely attached. The directions didnt say anything about loosening anything up at the bottom of apparatus. Is is attached down low somewhere?

Thanks
 
  #20  
Old 02-08-10, 07:54 PM
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Disregard. Got it off.... It was gunked up and rusted on. Thanks.
 
  #21  
Old 02-09-10, 11:44 AM
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Well, everything seems to be working fine after a couple loads. Thanks to everyone who gave me their input and help! Could not have done it without you guys.

Moch
 
  #22  
Old 02-09-10, 04:10 PM
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Glad the job came out good
 
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