Whirlpool Gas Dryer will not Spin or Heat

Hello,

I have a Whirlpool Gas Dryer (Model #: LGB6000KQ0). It about 2 years old, I think. About 2 Days ago, it stopped Spinning (drum) and it's not heating. Please help me....

 

Most likely is thermo fuse. Here is a link to part # 7
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...&prst=&shdMod=
Check with ohm meter should not be open
Clean vent to outside or you will have same problem later

 

Thermal Fuse... okay I'll get the part, and try to replace it and see what happens.

I should have said this before, but I can Hear the Dryer Run... and cool air comes out of the vent.... but It doesn't Heat or Spin anymore. Do you think, it's still the thermal fuse....??? Please let me know.

 

Sounds like you have 2 different problems (neither thermo fuse) Belt-is most likely broken, You need to ohm heater coil and thermostats. None should be open. here is a link to parts.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...200?pathTaken=

 

Hey pugsl,

Well you are right about few things... I installed a new fuse... and same issue, so I opened it up and Found to the Broken Belt....Thanks to you


now when you say "You need to ohm heater coil and thermostats. None should be open"

How do I do that, where are they located? and I am really familiar with ohm stuff? PLEASE SIR HELP ME

 

Sorry forgot was gas dryer, Still dose not heat? On gas assy there is a flame sensor and inginator (sp) Both should not be open. To check you need a ohm meter

 

They practically give volt-ohm meters, called mulitimeters, away, at our local big national chain tool store ($3). If you buy one, there is an ohms scale on it. Ohms is a measurement of electrical resistance.

If the resistance is high, the number on the meter will be high. If the number that is on there, usually one, does not even hiccup, then that = either no connection is being made, or the meter probe tips are not making good enough connection. But if you know you are making good connection, and the digital meter still says 1, without even a hiccup, then whatever you are testing is dead, and cannot pass current, and that is referred to as being "open".

When a circuit is "closed", it has no resistance, and the meter will go from the number one, and try to get to 0, and in trying to do so, the numbers start flashing/jumping around, and when it finally stabalizes, it might come down to some fraction like .6 or less. That means full current can pass, no resistance, and the circuit is making a "closed" connection.

If say you ever got some number like 13 - 50, or some such low numbers, that means you have SOME resistance, as can be expected through say a light bulb, heating element or motor - and those types of readings would indicate that component is likely good. If the meter never hiccuped off that number 1, then the connection, as previously stated, is dead.

If you get some number, say up over 150, chances are you are actually going through something actaully CALLED a resistor (often in the low thousands of ohms), or what you are testing (if it is not an actual called "resistor") has too much resitance, for the common type things I listed.

An HSI hot surface ignitor would classify as a form of a heating element - and these can range from about 25 -75 ohms, when new. You test with the meter between the two wires of the HSI. Caution, to prevent shock, or meter damage! -be sure you are testing the disconnected HSI wires, and not the wires that are power feeding to it!

A controlling thermostat or thermal, inside the dryer, should remain closed and be considered "NO", (or normally closed), unless it opens up, often due to overheating. Again, "closed" would mean full continuity, meaning there is no resistance, meaning your digital mulitmeter, when first turned on to lowest scale (like 200) ohms setting should first say the number one before you contact anything, and then jump around until a fractional number stabalizes, like .6 or less. The opposite of NO is "NC", which means normally closed, meaning it is set to be able to pass full current when the machine is off.

 

Hey ecman51`


THANK YOU. I finally understand what ohm and stuff is... you were very clear and highly understandable. As soon as I am awaiting for the belt, but while I wait I will buy a "multimeter" and play with the things pugsl mentioned above. You guys are the best here thank you.

 

What you just said makes me happy, and makes up a little for the car someone else was able to fix, rather than me.

 

Okay so I received the belt today and installed it. It worked great BUT when I turned it ON. The drum was running and I can the motor running, and air coming out of the vent... HOWEVER for some reason it was not heating. Turns out I had my gas shut off... stupid me.

BUT when I turned the gas on and tried to turn the dryer on it seems like it was trying to start because I heard a starting noise, but right away it would shut off. So I kept tried for several times, changed the fuse but still no luck. And now it won't even do anything when I hit On button what did I do, did I kill it? Please help

 

Is the new fuse in tight enough?

Do you have a voltmeter to make sure you have current at the outlet? (Actually you could just plug something into it to see.)

Have you tried to pull the plug, wait a number of seconds, and replug it back in and see if that helps?

 

It has sat for a couple of hours go back and try it again. May have a motor problem. When mnotor heats up if bad will start for A few minutes and than stop most times. Other times will make a groaning noise and than quit,

 

Okay I am back.... sorry I just got time to play with it today.

ecman51`(fuse tight enough?) YES. (Outlet have power ?) Yes and tested with meter and light bulb. (waited a few secs or mins) Yes


pugsl Yes it has been sat for a few days now , and I did go back and tried it, but no good. Now it won't even attempt to start, I don't hear anything what so ever.

Also, in the beginning when I turned the timer I was able to hear a little noise you know the typical timer noise "tik tik tik". Now since it won't start I don't even hear that. I tried to do a ohm test on the timer, but there is like 6 or 7 wires, some gave me a reading and some didn't. I am not sure if that's anything.

I also opened the gas and let it flow through while it was leaking a little bit from the coupling, because a friend of mine said maybe there is a gas sensor which could have closed a gas valve thus possibly causing it not to start (safety or air in system). But that didn't even work, I was afraid to try it with gas and electric but luckily my dryer is near back exit by door and several windows so wasn't a big issue.

I did mention that after the belt installed, I plugged it did ran for about 2 mins before I realized that my idiot self didn't have the gas turned on. So than I plugged it out, and plugged it back in and turned the gas on, than hit the start button, but it was staling like if the motor was trying to start, but couldn't. And now, when I push the button, I don't hear nothing not even the motor attempting to start.

P.S. Is there any way I can test the motor to make sure it's the motor that's bad, or the timer?

 

Start back at the basic. See if you have power to outlet, Recheck thermo fuse,

 

You said you replaced the fuse, back a number of posts ago. Was that a regular panel box fuse, or the thermal fuse inside the dryer?

Is the door closed good, and can you visually tell if the door switch looks like it should be engaging? Those can be tested with your meter also.

When you went to restart the dryer and now you hear nothing at all anymore, have you tried the timer dial in all kinds of positions?

Have you visually inspected for any burned or loose wires?

 

Hello, Sorry for delay.... been tight up w/ family issues.... Anyways Yes there is power to the outlet.... Thermo fuse is good.

 

It was a thermal fuse.... I am not even sure there is a panel box fuse

door is in good shape... it seems to worked when I first initially installed it... I did test it w/ meter thanks to you...

I did try the timer in various direction.... but still nothing......

I looked up & down, took the drum out and thoroughly checked each area wires, motor etc didn't look burned....

anything else i can try.... or should I just order the motor.....

$80 bucks for the motor...(if its definitely the motor) or $250+ for a new dryer....

P.S. on the drum belt... does the black side (rubber side) should be facing the drum... or is that plain side should be facing the drum....

 

grooved side of belt faces drum. Look at motor grooves on pulley and belt grooved line up.

 

okay so I have that one right thanks..... So you guys think, I should just go head and order the motor, or there anything else I can try ?

 

You push the start button and motor hums? yes you need a motor, mat need a blower wheel also as 75% chance of not coming off. If that is case take a screwdriver or chisel and cut blower off the shaft of motor.

 

Hello...... (One again sorry for delay)

Okay.... So I was able to bypass all none sense to see if motor was okay, it turns out the motor is good.

Than I tried the door switch, when I ohm it, it seem normal (than again I am not an expert).

Last was the Push-To-Start Switch button, I was able to bypass to see if anything would happen.... well it turns out... that the timer noise (typical timer sound) started again which means the timer is good (so I think).

Now what you guys think, could that switch be causing it for not to start anymore, should I go ahead and order that switch???? Please let me know....

Let me know if I did something wrong.... Please

 

please give a short summary of problem and what you have done, looked back and to many post to go through.

 

Okay..... Finally Got it
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My dryer stopped spinning and conducting heat.

Issue was: Belt --- ordered and place it.
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Started to spin but stopped working

after trying and trying.......... Thermal fuse was not the issue. checked with Ohm meter to best of my knowledge and all seemed good...

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finally when I was about to throw it out, it tried one thing since I was gona get rid of it..... bypassed the machine .... found that motor was GOOD.

Finally bypassed the door switched and...... BINGO.... it worked. So ordered a new door switch and its been working so FAR.

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I want to thank everyone in this forum for all your help, without your help and and a little faith..... and good pointers.... I would've never fixed it...

THANK YOU ALL