Whirlpool Washer will not agitate

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Old 10-16-10, 04:21 PM
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Whirlpool Washer will not agitate

I have a Whirpool top loading washer (bought around 2005) that will not agitate properly... when it gets to the agitating point in the cycle, nothing will happen. I only hear the clicks from the timer. At the end of the entire wash cycle, a few inches of water remain in the basin as well. The washer spins and fills correctly.

My lid switch works fine, and I replaces the motor coupling a few months back when it cracked and would not spin. I took apart my agitator apart and the threads are in good shape. I believe the agitator dogs are doing their job too. (The dogs let the agitator spin one way, but block movement in the other direction. I am not sure, but it seems that is what they are in there for.)

Help please, I will give more info if needed.
 
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Old 10-16-10, 04:38 PM
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Does it sound like the motor is running? If not may need a timer. Wiring diagram under console look for wire to motor in agitation and ck voltage from that wire to white at motor. Also while there shake white wire at motor that is neutral and I have found many bad connections there.
 
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Old 10-16-10, 04:44 PM
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I havent taken apart the washer for this problem yet, but if the washer spins, wouldnt the motor be working? I dont remember there being a seperate motor for the agitator.
 
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Old 10-16-10, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by vjasonv View Post
......will not agitate properly... when it gets to the agitating point in the cycle, nothing will happen. I only hear the clicks from the timer. At the end of the entire wash cycle, a few inches of water remain in the basin as well. The washer spins and fills correctly.
But how does it get from just sitting there, ticking, to winding up at end of cycle with just a couple inches of water in it. Something doesn't add up. Didn't something run? What? And when did it restart?
 
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Old 10-16-10, 05:27 PM
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It will go through an entire load... just without agitating. The timer continues to run and it goes through all the settings. It fills, then sits there without agitating, then spins and empties... then at the end, there is an inch or two of water in the bottom... I do not know if it is related to the agitating problem, but it started happening at the same time.
 
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Old 10-16-10, 05:45 PM
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Then that means you need to do pugsl's post #2.
 
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Old 10-17-10, 05:05 AM
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Do not try to take off back to service washer
If it spins the water will have to drain out unless you have a blockage in drain line to pump or from pump to wall. Whirlpools always drain in spin unless you have a recirculating type (unusual) . Give model # please.
 
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Old 10-17-10, 10:19 AM
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Located some numbers on the top of Basin, just under the lid.

Whirlpool Mod GST9679PW1
SER CSN6N9494

I located the Wiring Diagram, and would need to locate the contacts to even begin to figure out where to check voltages in the agitate stage. I believe the numbers on the top of the chard are minutes.... it goes from 0-125
 
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Old 10-17-10, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by pugsl View Post
Do not try to take off back to service washer
Why not, just so everyone knows. The fact you printed it in red adds to the urgency of your message and heightens the curiousity. Like how the tag on the mattress says not to remove. People, for years, wanted to know why, if maybe the gov't/police might get them. Also, when you say the back, you mean back of console or below that, or both?
 
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Old 10-17-10, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by vjasonv View Post
Located some numbers on the top of Basin, just under the lid.

Whirlpool Mod GST9679PW1
SER CSN6N9494

I located the Wiring Diagram, and would need to locate the contacts to even begin to figure out where to check voltages in the agitate stage. I believe the numbers on the top of the chard are minutes.... it goes from 0-125
Any numbers on the timer, by each wire that comes out of it, that correspond to the wiring diagram numbers? And/or wire color codes?
 
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Old 10-17-10, 01:28 PM
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The number on the Timer that appears to be for the timer itself is 39557658,

It is plastic, with the wires coming into the side by half of the wires going into pre-made clips that stab into the timer that locks them into place. They seem to line up and match the wiring diagram correctly and in order (which is nice).

The wire code numbers and colors match up fairly well... small changes like Y-W is just yellow when I would think that meant a yellow wire with a white trace.

There are 14 different switches and I am having trouble determining which ones to check for voltage. Each switch has a NO and NC contact with a middle wire most likely being the power for that switch.

Any thought on what I should find when I investigate these swtiches:
15. Top is agitate, Bottom is Spin
13. Top is spin, Bottom is agitate
5. Top is Agitate Lo, Bottom is agitate medium
 
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Old 10-17-10, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by vjasonv View Post
The number on the Timer that appears to be for the timer itself is 39557658,

It is plastic, with the wires coming into the side by half of the wires going into pre-made clips that stab into the timer that locks them into place. They seem to line up and match the wiring diagram correctly and in order (which is nice).

The wire code numbers and colors match up fairly well... small changes like Y-W is just yellow when I would think that meant a yellow wire with a white trace.

There are 14 different switches and I am having trouble determining which ones to check for voltage. Each switch has a NO and NC contact with a middle wire most likely being the power for that switch.

Any thought on what I should find when I investigate these swtiches:
15. Top is agitate, Bottom is Spin
13. Top is spin, Bottom is agitate
5. Top is Agitate Lo, Bottom is agitate medium
When you test 3-wire switches that have NO, NC and C(common), that means when the machine is not running, you should have full continuity between NC and C. It does not necessarily mean it will be passing 120 volts yet, until the machine is on. But for ohms testing, it will show that it has no ressitance, and will be closed(ABLE to pass current). Thern when the machine runs, and something activates whatever it activates in the cycle to switch the power to the NC terminal, then you will get continuity from NO to C.

Can you word you very bottom paragraph some other way, as I'm not sure what you mean. Pretend I know nothing at all, and you are trying to explain it.

I think I got it. For # 15, is the top agitate NO or NC?, so I know the pattern.
 
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Old 10-17-10, 02:13 PM
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By top and bottom, I only mean the top and bottom blade of the connector as designated by the wiring diagram. The diagram shows that (for example) the #15 switch will agitate and spin at different times as the timer proceeds through the cycles. I only assumed that one is NO and NC, but may not be the case. In #15, and it's opposite #13, the top and bottom pair in each, shares the same wire, the only difference is the wire in the middle. I dont get continuity between any two terminals in these 2 switches except for top is the same on both, and bottom is the same on both.

Are you saying something should be normal closed here? I dont get continuity between the middle wires and the top or bottom of the terminal.
 
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Old 10-17-10, 03:17 PM
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When the timer is set to agitate, there is going to be a wire, coming from that particular timer switch, that will then "close", and send power to the motor so it knows which direction to turn the motor, so that it agitates rather than spins. By whatever means, color codes, let's say - you should be able to find and test between that hot wire and ground, to see if it is letting 120 volts pass through it, to get to the motor. To see if it is, as it should be then - or it isn't. The voltmeter test would be in parallel, which enables the power to both go to the motor and be picked up on the voltmeter at the same time. At that particular moment, the circuit should be closed, but can't say if that means NO or NC on the wiring diagram. Although I'd think in the case of a washing machine, it mean NC (normally closed). Just find the applicable coded wire and test it, when it should be agitating. Make sure the lid is closed! The lid, if left open, would likely open the circuit.
 
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Old 10-17-10, 04:34 PM
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I will try to post a picture of the wiring diagram.

The agitate cycle for switch # 13 & 15 do not ever seem to get 120v. The SIS Agitate Motor 1 & 2 do get power for about 20 seconds then turn off like the diagram says they should... I just dont understand why Switch 13 & 15 get power for the spin cycle but not for agitating.
 
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Old 10-17-10, 04:53 PM
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I cannot seem to figure out how to post the pic I scanned of the wiring diagram...
 
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Old 10-17-10, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by vjasonv View Post
I cannot seem to figure out how to post the pic I scanned of the wiring diagram...
I'll try to call out the cavalry in the chat forum.
 
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Old 10-17-10, 06:11 PM
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http://forum.doityourself.com/electr...your-post.html. Upload it to photobucket.com first.
 
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Old 10-17-10, 07:25 PM
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WasherWiring.jpg picture by vjasonv - Photobucket

Thanks. Here is the wiring diagram.
 
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Old 10-18-10, 06:02 PM
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Circuit 1 and circuit 7 are closed for intial agitation cycle. Cannot make out left legend words good enough!!!

Med.load uses yet another circuit for agitation.
 
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