think i need a discontinued thermostat?


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Old 01-12-11, 07:48 PM
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think i need a discontinued thermostat?

My amana fridge has had ice building up in the freezer. I researched it, removed and tested the defrost thermostat with a multimeter, and as far as i can tell it's bad. When the thermostat is cold, the meter reads infinity - when it warms up, it goes to 0. I looked around online, and it looks like the part ( 63001816 ) is discontinued, and not replaced. Is there ANYTHING i can do short of buying a new refrigerator?? Seems crazy for a $20 part, the fridge is only around 5 years old. Any way to fix the thermostat/use a different part/"hack" it somehow to work/anything??? Thanks a LOT!!
 
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Old 01-13-11, 03:46 AM
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What is the refrigerator model number?
 
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Old 01-13-11, 06:02 AM
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sorry, thought i included it. ATB1504ARB

Thanks again
 
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Old 01-13-11, 06:23 AM
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You can use a generic defrost timer. Remove your current timer and take to supply house and have it matched up. Mounting may be slightly different, but they usually come with mounting kit.
 
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Old 01-13-11, 06:27 AM
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It may be either the defrost timer Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Timer, defrost, part number: AP4071797 or the actual heating element under the freezer coils. I note it is out of stock with this company, but not discontinued.
 
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Old 01-13-11, 07:40 AM
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thanks a lot for the replies - admittedly this is the first fridge i have attempted to repair, but i believe it is the thermostat only because according to what i have read, the multimeter is telling me it is bad. I am pretty sure the thermostat is discontinued, it says so on sears parts website and i called another random part website who said the same thing.

hvacchip- is the timer/thermostat the same thing? pretty sure i need the thermostat, i thought i saw a picture of the timer and it was different.
 
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Old 01-13-11, 10:33 AM
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The timer tells the heating element to heat slightly to defrost the frost forming on the cooling fins. Is this a side by side or top freezer or bottom freezer? Have you inspected the coils to verify they are frosted up? If they are, then it is the defrost timer, not a thermostat. Face it, if it is getting cold enough to frost up, it is cold enough to freeze food. Unless it defrosts regularly, cold air can't pass by the coils.
 
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Old 01-13-11, 12:47 PM
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the timer tells the heating element to heat slightly, so what does the defrost thermostat do? I thought the thermostat tells the defroster to turn on and off depending on if it is too cold/too hot etc. It is top freezer. Not sure where the coils are, but pretty much the entire back wall and everything behind it has ice all over it.


Freezer compartment replacement parts for AMANA ATB1504ARB REF - TOP MOUNT | AppliancePartsPros.com

The part that i believe is bad (according to multimeter) is #18, the defrost thermostat. I don't see a defrost timer anywhere?
 
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Old 01-13-11, 03:49 PM
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The defrost timer is in the "controls" section and installs in the refrigerator. The defrost thermostat clips onto the tubing and sends a signal to the unit to turn on or off the refrigeration. If you are getting frost, the thermostat is asking for it. The timer is not working and telling the defrost heater (#13) to come on. Either that, or as in my case the heater was bad (after I changed out the timer anyway). I checked the continuity on it, and it failed. Have had zero problems with it icing up after that.
 
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Old 01-14-11, 04:27 AM
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A typical defrost thermostat is is sometimes called a defrost limit control.
The timer initiates a defrost by energizing the heating element but in series with the defrost thermostat.

When the freezer is in use the defrost thermostat will be closed, allowing current to pass through the element when the defrost timer clicks in defrosting the fridge coil.
If the coil does not have a very large frost accumulation it will clear before the 20-30 minute defrost cycle of the timer.
The coil temperature will rise quickly once the frost is gone and the defrost thermostat will open at around 50 degF, preventing the contents of the freezer from overheating.

This control also acts as a safety, preventing the freezer from catching fire should the timer stick on a defrost cycle.
So, to test you would have an open circuit at room temperature and it would close or be at zero resistance when at freezer temperature.
I haven't done fridge repair in a while but have seen a few burnt fridges from taking a shortcut by bypassing the defrost control.........A dangerous move!

If your defrost thermostat looks ok, put it back and replace the coil cover but don't screw it on yet.
Plug in the fridge and wait several hours for the freezer to get cold.
Find the timer and very slowly turn the knob with a screwdriver till it clicks and the compressor stops.
This should energize the heating element.
You can carefully remove the cover to check it out.
If the element is not heating the timer could be bad or the element burnt out.
If the heater operates then the timer is likely not rotating because of a stripped gear or bad motor........Replace the timer.
 
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Old 01-14-11, 05:52 AM
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thanks a million for all your replies - gregh, i did test the defrost thermostat with a multimeter, and it read infinity when it was frozen, and once it warmed up it went to 0 which according to what you're saying means it's bad correct? It is possible i am not doing it/reading it right, haven't used a multimeter in years and even then just barely. I turned the dial manually and i did hear it turn off, and 20 minutes or so later it turned back on, so i assume that means the gears are ok - could be the electric in the timer as well i guess, or as chandler mentioned maybe the heater. need to figure out how to get the timer out, i broke half the clips in the freezer taking the back wall out don't want to do the same in the fridge. Thanks again for everyones help
 
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Old 01-14-11, 02:52 PM
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Something is wrong.
Are you measuring the resistance while the thermostat is disconnected from the cct?
The readings you are seeing is opposite to what they should be.
The switch action you are describing is what you would expect for the fridge temperature thermostat.

Is this what you are talking about? :

Image courtesy of parwizard.com

The defrost thermostat shown above should be open cct or infinite resistance when warm and closed cct or 0 ohms when cold.
I have never seen one fail by showing reverse operation.

As far as checking the timer, if you turn the control to start the defrost cycle it is common for a bad timer to complete a manually started cycle.
It puts more force on the mechanism to push open the contacts than to run and end the cycle.
If you verify 100% that the element and limit are ok, just replace the timer.
 
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Old 01-17-11, 08:30 AM
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well i removed the defrost timer, tested it, and it looks like it is bad. Touch one probe to the "3" terminal, and the other probe to each of the other terminals, and the multimeter doesn't move. I touch them both to 3, and the multimeter goes to infinity, which at least tells me the meter/battery works. I manually moved the timer until the click, tested it again, same thing - no continuity at all on any of them. So i can only assume i made a mistake testing the defrost thermostat (hopefully).

Next question, can i run the fridge without the timer in it? So i can bring the timer to a store and not have to leave the fridge off the whole time? Also any idea where i can get one in nyc? home depot? *EDIT* i found it on searspartsdirect so i just ordered it from there

Thanks a billion for all the advice, you all may have saved me from buying a new fridge.
 

Last edited by james428; 01-17-11 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 01-19-11, 05:18 PM
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ok i am a moron - apparently the left side of my (analog) multimeter is infinity, and the right side is 0. So, i was reading it backwards, and i guess that means the thermostat was fine. I just replaced the timer, but i tested it before i put it in and it's giving me the same exact readings the old one did, so i'm starting to think its the heating element. Reading around trying to figure out how to test that now, may be ordering one on ebay soon as it's discontinued as well
 
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Old 01-19-11, 07:25 PM
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That's exactly what happened to my Maytag Wide by side. I changed the timer not realizing the last service person I had out did the same thing. Timers were OK. It was the heating element. Mine just plugged in. Unplugged it, tested for continuity, bad, replaced and had worked great ever since. Been nearly a year I believe.
 
 

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