GE Refrigerator model GSS25JFMC WW Problem with freezer

Hi, My refrigerator isn't working properly. The ice maker isn't working and the upper part of the freezer is warm. I put two half glasses of water in the freezer. The water in the glass on the top shelf didn't freeze, but the water in the glass on the bottom of the freezer did turn to ice. The fan is working.

I noticed that the same thing is happening in the refrigerator too. The food on the upper shelves is warm while the food on the bottom is colder.

Can anyone offer an explanation. Thank you.

The refrigerator is about 10 years old.

 

Can you locate or see the cooling coils on the inside of the freezer? Are they frosted up? If so air won't pass by them and the cool air will only fall in the bottom of the freezer, but won't really be that cold. If this is the case, you may have 1) a bad defrost timer 2) bad heating coil or 3) dirty coils under the fridge.

 

chadler, thank you very much for replying.

I don't know where to look for the cooling coils. I removed the tray that holds the ice cubes to look for them, and all I saw was one wire. I doubt anything would be frosted up on the top of the freezer because it is warm. However, the lower part of the freezer is cold. The glass of water iI put there is ice now.

Are the cooling coils on top or bottom. Do I have to remove any panel to locate them?

I removed the lower panel and found that the vents on the side of the fan were clogged with dust.Yesterday I vaccumed the dust so that the vents are now clean to breathe.

I will look for the cooling coils as you suggested to find out their condition. I do know that a while ago, my wife contacted a refrigerator repair man who suggested a part that was to be replaced on the inside of the refrigerator (not sure which side but I think it was the freezer).

I'm not much of a handy man myself, but is a defrost timer or bad heating coils hard to replace? Again, thanks for your help.

 

The repair person was suggesting the replacement of the defrost timer, which is located in the roof of the refrigerator (usually). It is usually the culprit. The cooling coils are usually in the lower part of the freezer, and yes, you will most likely have to remove a panel to access them. Look down there for screws on the perimeter and vent holes for the air to move. Let us know what you find.
While you're at it, post the make and model number. We can pull up the schematic and see what's up and where it's at.

 

Chandler, thanks again for responding.

First off, the model number is GSS25JFMC WW (It's 10 or 11 years old).
The serial number is TA245922.

I need to get the proper wrench to take off the back panel on the inside of the freezer. I did however observe some frost on the lower part of the panel, while the upper part of the panel is warm and without frost. I will get the small wrench I need to remove the panel and let you know what I see.

Again, thank you. Your help is greatly appreciated.

 

I found an excellent video that shows and explains the installation of a "defrost timer." But I have one question I would appreciate answered.

My ice maker isn't working (I presume because the upper portion of the freezer isn't cold enough to freeze water). Do you think by installing a new defrost timer the ice maker would work? Could a faulty defrost timer prevent an ice maker from working properly?

Thank you.

 

Yes, you have to equalize the temperature in the freezer for the ice maker to make ice. It won't even dispense water until the proper temperature is achieved. Let us know how it goes.

 

Yesterday, my wife and I changed the thermostat. When I removed the back panel from the freezer, I noticed that the coils were a bit frosted. Anyway, thank you for your help. It's a bit too early to tell whether the refrigerator will be saved. I will let you know if the cold air is circulating equally and if the ice maker is working.

This is the part we changed:

Partselect.com - Parts And All Brands of Appliance Parts

Thanks.

 

After putting in a new thermostat, the refrigerator is still the same. Both the refrigerator and freezer are cold on the bottom while warm on the top, and the ice maker isn't working.

Is there any other part I should be aware of that might be causing this problem. So far, besides changing the thermostat, we have also cleaned the clogged vents on the side of the fan to allow ventillation. But no luck.

The repair man where I bought the thermostat mentioned a board (?) that costs about $200, but without any guarantee I'm afraid to invest the money (might be tossing it away).

Any suggestions? Thank you.

At this moment, I'm about to buy some plastic ice cube trays to make ice because the bottom of the freezer is still cold enough to freeze water. But, I'd really like to fix the problem if I can.

Thanks again.

 

When tenants complaint about their fridge not working, we clean the coils

If that doesn't do it, we call the guy at the appliance store we use and get them a new one

 

Thank you for your input mitch17, but I'm not complaining. I was just asking for a few suggestions.

Recently I priced some refrigerators and they were quite costly. If I can get a few more years use from mine, I'd be happy. It is in good condition, and I believe it might be worth trying to fix.

Thank you.

 

You changed the defrost thermostat and not the timer. You watched the video, right? Have you checked the defrost heating element for continuity? Timer should run less than $100.

 

GE GSS25JFMCWW Parts List

chandler, Is there a defrost timer in this model? I believe the GE parts man told me there wasnt when I bought the thermostat. How would I check the defrost heater for continuity?

Thanks, again.

 

I didn't say you were complaining, just explaining our point of view about fixing versus replacing

 

After reviewing the parts list, I see it is probably controlled by a mother board instead. The heating element will have two wires plugged into a circuit or a single two pronged receiver. You would unplug it and check it for continuity. If it is open then it needs replacing. If it gives you a value (not sure what the value would be in your case) it is probably still viable. If you are experiencing frosting, and you have replaced the thermostat, and if the mother board is telling it to go through a defrost cycle, then the element is most likely burned out. Let us know what is going on. Element will probably run $25.

 

Partselect.com - Parts And All Brands of Appliance Parts

Chandler, is that the heating element?

Thanks again.

You would unplug it and check it for continuity. If it is open then it needs replacing. If it gives you a value (not sure what the value would be in your case) it is probably still viable.

How do I check for a value? I don't think I have the proper tool. Suppose I take the heater to the GE part's store and let the man check its value. Would he be able to tell whether the part was any good?

Thanks.