Maytag Neptune MDE9700AYW Blue wire melting at Thermal Fuse

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Old 07-02-11, 09:29 PM
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Maytag Neptune MDE9700AYW Blue wire melting at Thermal Fuse

The blue wire that connects to the Thermal Fuse is melting. I replaced the Thermal Fuse which was completely melted and put a new connector on. That lasted about 3 hours of drying and then the blue wire melted. The connection is tight. What should I check next?
 
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Old 07-03-11, 01:20 PM
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Have only seen that dryer once, Wires melt from heat usually caused by to much amperage going through wire. Check to see if your heater is grounded, Dryer will heat if grounded but will not get very hot but not too hot. Don't have wiring diagram So I can't how thermo fuse is wired.
 
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Old 07-03-11, 03:21 PM
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https://picasaweb.google.com/leadarr...54140098077666
Blue wire connects to 14...wire jumpers connect 14 to 15 to 24...red wire goes to other side of 24.
 
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Old 07-04-11, 04:56 AM
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Only got a picture of heater, did not help, Did you ohm out heater to heater box? should show a open.
 
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Old 07-04-11, 05:26 AM
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No I will try that next but I did look at the insulators closely and they look good. I will get back with the chm test results later. Thanks
 
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Old 07-04-11, 08:46 AM
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The coil is not grounded to the case. Now the blue wire going from 14 to 15 is fried. I am thinking bad ground.I am checking source ground now then I will check it at the plug connection to the machine and go from there. Any other thoughts you have would be appreciated. .
 
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Old 07-04-11, 10:11 AM
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Blue wire go's from Heater to control box on top. I here are a few pictures ... https://picasaweb.google.com/leadarr...CM_gucHuz7zcaA
 
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Old 07-04-11, 04:18 PM
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The part the blue wire is connected to is the hi limit thermostat. Is that the blue wire that burnt up? The other end goes to the heater relay. I can see no reason for the wire to burn. Do you have a amp meter?
Don't have wiring diagram so don't know about wire numbers.
 
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Old 07-04-11, 04:38 PM
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The blue wire originating at the circuit board and going to one side of the thermal fuse is the first wire to burn. The first thing to burn was the thermal fuse. Put new one in....blue wire burns off.( blue wire in last picture)...fix that ..black wire between thermal fuse and heat relay burns. Fixed that and putting it back together. It could be both wires ends were damaged when the thermal fuse burned and I missed it...we will see.
 
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Old 07-05-11, 08:14 PM
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New development. Now the new Thermal fuse is blown. Has to be a reason the wires melt and the thermal fuses blow.
 
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Old 07-06-11, 03:33 AM
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Clean the vent to the outside. Most common reason the dryer overheats and blows fuses, (not a reason for wires to melt, I think you found reason with loose connections) Air at back of dryer should be the same outside
 
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Old 07-06-11, 06:19 AM
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No blockage found in vent. It works fine. We had a issue with the main ground wire to the house a week or so ago. Neutral wire had broken on the poll near the transformer. The power company fixed it but could the dryer be damaged from that somehow and what would be damaged that could cause this. I am going to town now and get a new Thermal Fuse but I don't want to burn it up as well so I need to fix whatever this is....down to my last pair of jeans....lol
Thanks so much for trying to help.
 
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Old 07-06-11, 08:54 AM
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The voltage to the dryer reads 242. It should be 220. Could this be the problem and if so why would my house current be too high?
 
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Old 07-06-11, 03:20 PM
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240 is normal, line voltage is around 120 + - a couple of volts. Ask that in the electrical forum. Got some sharp guys there.
 
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Old 07-12-11, 06:54 PM
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Well I am at wits end with this. I bought a new heater box with new coil and new thermal fuse and heat sensor and I am back to square one. The blue wire melted again along with the thermal fuse. There has to be something I can do to find this problem. What should the amperage be at the heater wire? I will go buy an amp gauge and test that.
 
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Old 07-12-11, 07:19 PM
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Old 07-13-11, 12:45 AM
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You have a problem I have not run into. Trying to remember current draw for dryer. It should not be more than 25 amps I think. It should be on a 30 amp circuit. Most common reason wires burn is loose connections. I know you have checked that. Is there a tech sheet any place in dryer? it will have current draw on it.
 
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Old 07-13-11, 09:34 PM
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The black power wire comes from the plug and goes to this board..Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Assy Pcb Parts, part number: AP4045210
on the board the part the black wire goes to is T9AS1D22-12 Product Details - TE ...that is it in the first links picture ..black box lower left hand corner of board. Then the blue wire comes out of the black box and goes to the heating element where it burns off it's end. On the site page that shows the black box you will find a link to speck sheet on part. I will try to post image. Can you tell me how to test mine to see if it could be the problem?


 
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Old 07-14-11, 03:13 AM
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Your getting above my pay grade here. I don't know what you are checking? current draw? if current draw you need to clamp meter over one wire, I try to clamp over either black or red wire where it comes out of terminal block. Easier said than done. that weay you will read draw from whole dryer.
 
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Old 07-15-11, 12:35 PM
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I just need to know how to test the black box to see if it is working properly. I don't know how.
 
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Old 07-15-11, 02:17 PM
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Black box I think is heater relay. If heater works it is OK, To test with dryer and heater on,on volt meter across terminals should read 0 with heater off should read 240 volts.
Though of one thing else if you replaced blue wire with a wire to small it will overheat and burn wire, Should be at least a 12 gauge but I would use 10 gauge to be sure. just re looked at your heater picture, You have a Whirlpool made Maytag dryer. Now that I know the black box is heater relay. Work on these dryers every day and have never seen your problem.
Did you post in electrical about tour neutral problem?
 
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Old 07-17-11, 05:47 AM
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It's not the wire I have replaced them and did use #10 wire. I need to get the circuit board checked. A new one is $175.00 and before I do that I need to know for sure what's wrong. Power is too high...too low or staying on longer than it's designed too.... I don't know . Thanks for trying to help.
 
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Old 07-17-11, 10:26 AM
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To check temps put a thermometer in the exhaust air. The temps should be around 165 with the vent off. After checking that way check temps with vent connected. The temps should be within 10 degrees. If not around the same clean vent to outside.
 
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Old 07-17-11, 07:57 PM
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Vent is all new. I can't keep it going long enough to check vent temperature. It fries the thermal fuse and the wire every time I try it at $36.00 a pop. I need to find someone who can test the board.
 
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Old 07-18-11, 03:47 AM
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I don't know of any tests for board except to check voltages in and volts out. What volts are at wall. have you checked volts to neutral? Did you post your neutral problem in electrical? You should have 240 at wall 120 to each hot side to neutral. Bad neutral or ground can cause all sorts of problems with machines.
I think it's the black wire that goes from terminal block to board should have 120 there from black to ground. Very much dough the board is problem. Board is just a fancy switch.
 
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