Kenmore Washer - Model #110.16862502: Good coupler, good clutch, no spin
#1
04-10-12, 10:24 AM
Kenmore Washer - Model #110.16862502: Good coupler, good clutch, no spin
Recently noticed clothes were still soaking wet at the end of a wash cycle. After further investigation I found that the tub was not spinning (but it does agitate normally). If I open the lid and give the tub a little help, it spins as expected. Here's what I've done up to this point:
- Removed the coupler, all parts are intact and I'm able to spin the motor manually.
- Made the mistake of prying open the pump to check for foreign objects--I've replaced the pump.
- Confirmed that the lid switch is working properly.
- Leaned the machine back and observed the underside during the spin cycle. The clutch spins every time, but the drive basket (I think that's what it's called) doesn't (which corresponds with the tub not spinning).
Sometimes, after manually giving the tub a "spin boost" and opening and closing the lid, there's a loud clang and when that happens, the tub starts spinning.
My guess is that it's a worn drive block, but before I order a new one (and spanner wrench to get to said worn drive block), I'd like to get some feedback.
- Removed the coupler, all parts are intact and I'm able to spin the motor manually.
- Made the mistake of prying open the pump to check for foreign objects--I've replaced the pump.
- Confirmed that the lid switch is working properly.
- Leaned the machine back and observed the underside during the spin cycle. The clutch spins every time, but the drive basket (I think that's what it's called) doesn't (which corresponds with the tub not spinning).
Sometimes, after manually giving the tub a "spin boost" and opening and closing the lid, there's a loud clang and when that happens, the tub starts spinning.
My guess is that it's a worn drive block, but before I order a new one (and spanner wrench to get to said worn drive block), I'd like to get some feedback.
#2
04-10-12, 03:30 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Look inside cabinet about 6 inches from floor you you may see a streak of oil. If there you need a gearcase top seal, clutch and drive coupler. lean washer back against wall to look under it.
#3
04-12-12, 04:50 PM
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Drive block
you do not need a special tool to remove the drive block spanner nut. I have removed at least 1000 with a hammer and a cresent wrench. You hold the cressent in your hand worm gear and jaw in the palm of your hand. use the flat of the handle to lock into one of the four slots. Then wack it with the hammer.It will be loud but it will come loose. But before you do that you can look at the took of the drive block with the agitator removed. You will see two ears that should be locked into the drive block if they are the block is probably good.
#4
12-15-12, 12:27 PM
Don Can You Help Thanks
kenmore model 110 246 42300
Symptom was washer did not do anything after filling with water.
Checked the lid switch, the two plastic housings were separated and not making contact.
Wired switch wires together and the washer filled agitated rinsed spin and stopped in small load and also again in large load. Put the washer back into the house ran another load smelled a burning plastic type of heat smell and washer will not run. Now let it cool down washer will fill and agitate but heats up and stops on the rinse cycle. I have done this many times and it seams the wires going to the timer are very warm to the touch. It will agitate for the full cycle and as soon as the timer gets to the rinse cycle it will click a couple times buzz and then the timer completely shuts down with the same smell like something is heating up.
Don is off for the day
It's pretty strange that the lid switch went bad and the spin issue at the same time.
For now you've got the lid switch bypassed. Ok for now but it would be a good idea to replace it.
You say heats up and stops on rinse cycle ?
What heats up ?
Or are you just guessing something is heating up ?
There isn't much to heat up unless it's the drive motor. You have a direct drive machine so no belt to slip.
Check the motor and see how hot it is. It is thermally protected and can shut down on over-heat.
Below is the parts link to your machine if needed.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...od=11024642300
Ok for now but it would be a good idea to replace it
I have a lid switch on order should be in around the 18th.
You say heats up and stops on rinse cycle ? as soon after the agitation cycle it will click and then the timer will shut down with a burning odor.
What heats up ? At the panel where all of the switch's are mounted the wiring to the timer are the hottest then the wires to the temp switch are warm.
Or are you just guessing something is heating up ? No it is definitely a hot plastic smell.
Check the motor and see how hot it is. It is thermally protected and can shut down on over-heat. I will pull the cabinet off and run it and fill if the motor is heating up. But why will it still agitate if motor might be bad? Later this week end.
Below is the parts link to your machine if needed. Thanks
That's a fancy reply.
So you are saying it's the timer that is making the burning smell ?
as soon after the agitation cycle it will click and then the timer will shut down with a burning odor.
I'm just a little confused. Timer shuts down or the agitation cycle stops ?
hat's a fancy reply. Thanks
So you are saying it's the timer that is making the burning smell It is more like the wires are getting warm.
I'm just a little confused. Timer shuts down or the agitation cycle stops ?as soon after the agitation cycle ends the timer will click and continue to move in the rinse cycle at the timer dial and then the timer will click like it wanted to start the rinse cycle, after 30 sec or so then the timer shuts down completely like some one pulled the plug with a burning odor.
That sounds like the motor is stalled.Could be a transmission problem.
Wires getting warm don't really smell. A stalled motor gone out on thermal overload will smell hot. Like a hot varnish smell.
I'm trying to figure out.....how do you know the timer shuts down?
Can you hear the timer motor running and then stop ?
O K cabinet is off
the clicking sound is from the timer
the buzzing is from the motor and it is warm to hot to the touch
tested the voltage to the motor from the red and green wires in the harness and tested 120 volts
when moving the timer around from one cycle to the other cycle voltages did vary from 13 to 27to 41 and 120 volts.
tested 120 v in the spin cycle unplugged the machine leaving the timer in the position where I tested 120v then putting back the harness to the motor and plugging the machine back in. motor just buzzed.
next I removed the pump from the motor still receiving 120v at the motor, plugged the motor in still buzzing. With the 120v off I can move the shaft of the motor where the pump was mounted with ease. After about 6 hour I guess the motor cools down enough so when I put the timer in the wash cycle it will agitate for its allotted time and then quit. Why does the motor start working in the wash cycle for a while and not start in the spin cycle, even after I cool it down it will not start from the rinse or spin, motor will just buzz and then trip?
Answered this in your other post will try to merge them
kenmore model 110 246 42300
Symptom was washer did not do anything after filling with water.
Checked the lid switch, the two plastic housings were separated and not making contact.
Wired switch wires together and the washer filled agitated rinsed spin and stopped in small load and also again in large load. Put the washer back into the house ran another load smelled a burning plastic type of heat smell and washer will not run. Now let it cool down washer will fill and agitate but heats up and stops on the rinse cycle. I have done this many times and it seams the wires going to the timer are very warm to the touch. It will agitate for the full cycle and as soon as the timer gets to the rinse cycle it will click a couple times buzz and then the timer completely shuts down with the same smell like something is heating up.
Don is off for the day
It's pretty strange that the lid switch went bad and the spin issue at the same time.
For now you've got the lid switch bypassed. Ok for now but it would be a good idea to replace it.
You say heats up and stops on rinse cycle ?
What heats up ?
Or are you just guessing something is heating up ?
There isn't much to heat up unless it's the drive motor. You have a direct drive machine so no belt to slip.
Check the motor and see how hot it is. It is thermally protected and can shut down on over-heat.
Below is the parts link to your machine if needed.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...od=11024642300
Ok for now but it would be a good idea to replace it
I have a lid switch on order should be in around the 18th.
You say heats up and stops on rinse cycle ? as soon after the agitation cycle it will click and then the timer will shut down with a burning odor.
What heats up ? At the panel where all of the switch's are mounted the wiring to the timer are the hottest then the wires to the temp switch are warm.
Or are you just guessing something is heating up ? No it is definitely a hot plastic smell.
Check the motor and see how hot it is. It is thermally protected and can shut down on over-heat. I will pull the cabinet off and run it and fill if the motor is heating up. But why will it still agitate if motor might be bad? Later this week end.
Below is the parts link to your machine if needed. Thanks
That's a fancy reply.
So you are saying it's the timer that is making the burning smell ?
as soon after the agitation cycle it will click and then the timer will shut down with a burning odor.
I'm just a little confused. Timer shuts down or the agitation cycle stops ?
hat's a fancy reply. Thanks
So you are saying it's the timer that is making the burning smell It is more like the wires are getting warm.
I'm just a little confused. Timer shuts down or the agitation cycle stops ?as soon after the agitation cycle ends the timer will click and continue to move in the rinse cycle at the timer dial and then the timer will click like it wanted to start the rinse cycle, after 30 sec or so then the timer shuts down completely like some one pulled the plug with a burning odor.
That sounds like the motor is stalled.Could be a transmission problem.
Wires getting warm don't really smell. A stalled motor gone out on thermal overload will smell hot. Like a hot varnish smell.
I'm trying to figure out.....how do you know the timer shuts down?
Can you hear the timer motor running and then stop ?
O K cabinet is off
the clicking sound is from the timer
the buzzing is from the motor and it is warm to hot to the touch
tested the voltage to the motor from the red and green wires in the harness and tested 120 volts
when moving the timer around from one cycle to the other cycle voltages did vary from 13 to 27to 41 and 120 volts.
tested 120 v in the spin cycle unplugged the machine leaving the timer in the position where I tested 120v then putting back the harness to the motor and plugging the machine back in. motor just buzzed.
next I removed the pump from the motor still receiving 120v at the motor, plugged the motor in still buzzing. With the 120v off I can move the shaft of the motor where the pump was mounted with ease. After about 6 hour I guess the motor cools down enough so when I put the timer in the wash cycle it will agitate for its allotted time and then quit. Why does the motor start working in the wash cycle for a while and not start in the spin cycle, even after I cool it down it will not start from the rinse or spin, motor will just buzz and then trip?
Answered this in your other post will try to merge them
Last edited by pugsl; 12-15-12 at 03:19 PM.
#5
12-15-12, 02:10 PM
I'm trying to figure out.....how do you know the timer shuts down? It will stop its light buzzing and its mechanical clicking, and at that time I push the knob in and there is no change in sound.
Can you hear the timer motor running and then stop ? Yes
I think its probable time for me to pull the cabinet off and check the temperature of the motor while its running. Time line would be before 6 pm today or Monday morning.
Going to start now thanks bob
Can you hear the timer motor running and then stop ? Yes
I think its probable time for me to pull the cabinet off and check the temperature of the motor while its running. Time line would be before 6 pm today or Monday morning.
Going to start now thanks bob
#6
12-15-12, 03:23 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
It seems that you already have the lid switch jumped. TAKE CABINET OFF AND UNCLIP WATER PUMP FROM MOTOR,(LEAVE HOSES ON) Dam cap lock key. Make sure pump is off motor and try washer in spin. If it works you have something stuck in water pump. Slight chance of getting out but I would bet you need a water pump.
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...#ixzz2FALZ7l3P
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...#ixzz2FALZ7l3P
