Dryer venting question
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Dryer venting question
We will be replacing the exterior siding on my sons home. The current dryer vent travels from the bottom of the dryer at about a 45 degree angle, up about 2feet then out thru the wall to the exterior.
My question is:
Thinking that a straight horizontal vent pipe out the wall creates the least resisatnce and travel, it would place this outside vent approximately maybe 5 to 6 inches off of the patio slab/ground.
Is there anything wrong with this vent being this low?
My question is:
Thinking that a straight horizontal vent pipe out the wall creates the least resisatnce and travel, it would place this outside vent approximately maybe 5 to 6 inches off of the patio slab/ground.
Is there anything wrong with this vent being this low?
#3
Member
Thread Starter
No snow. My concern is the heat that is generated by the dryer. We are currently using one of those oblong adjustable boxes made of aluminum, I assume. It gets really hot, I guess I could insulate it?
Was thinking the straight out would remove the hot air better. The height would be equivelant to the height of the discharger on tha back of the dryer.
Was thinking the straight out would remove the hot air better. The height would be equivelant to the height of the discharger on tha back of the dryer.
Last edited by digitalshooter; 07-08-12 at 06:54 AM. Reason: spelling
#4
Heat should not be a problem, straight is best but what you have should work just fine. Heat at back of dryer vent is about 160.
#6
Have seen many at that height. be sure to keep area free of junk and flap in vent working. Very nasty to take a dead animal out of blower motor.
#7
Group Moderator
Your description does not describe a situation I would be likely to put any effort into changing, the vent sounds fine the way it is now.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Mitch17,
Thanks and I understand why you would say that. But we are going to have all of the external wall off and also insulating the walls. This is a 1960's home. So moving in to go straight out the wall will be no issue of labor.
Thanks
Thanks and I understand why you would say that. But we are going to have all of the external wall off and also insulating the walls. This is a 1960's home. So moving in to go straight out the wall will be no issue of labor.
Thanks
#9
Member
I would be concerned with critters as others have mentioned.
If they get a nest in there, or even start working on one, this could create a fire hazard.
Personally I would keep it higher up. Less chance of problems with little furry monsters, and less chance of hitting it with something and breaking the vent.
If they get a nest in there, or even start working on one, this could create a fire hazard.
Personally I would keep it higher up. Less chance of problems with little furry monsters, and less chance of hitting it with something and breaking the vent.
#10
Group Moderator
Didn't occur to me the first time around but I have to clean the end of the vent out at my house a couple times a year and it's nice to have the thing located at about waist height so I don't have to stoop or kneel or anything to do so.
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Final question: When I insulate the wall, what should I do around the pipe thru the wall?
Box in with 5/8 sheetrock?
Box in with 5/8 sheetrock?
#13
Group Moderator
I had to move my vent and I cut a hole in the fiberglass bat that was on the wall where it was going. Once I was done, I sprayed foam insulation around the duct to fill the gaps I had created.
#14
No need to do anything special around it. As Pugsl said...temp is only about 160 at exhaust of dryer.
Treat it just like you would a plumbing penetration. Insulate around it and seal the outside plate/cover with caulk. You could use caulk between the sheetrock and the pipe if you wanted. Most aren't sealed on the interior that I have seen.
If there's an area that insulation can't easily be placed, use a low expansion spray foam.
Treat it just like you would a plumbing penetration. Insulate around it and seal the outside plate/cover with caulk. You could use caulk between the sheetrock and the pipe if you wanted. Most aren't sealed on the interior that I have seen.
If there's an area that insulation can't easily be placed, use a low expansion spray foam.
#15
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You are lucky. Mine is on the roof and the jack, made by Famco, does not disassemble for cleaning. I have to pull roofing tacks out, pry up the edge of the jack, carefully reach inside avoiding the razor sharp barbs the contractor conviently left and pull out the lint. Why is it that designers never have to actually use and work on their own designs? Twits!