How to test responder on GE sensi-temp
#1
How to test responder on GE sensi-temp
I have an old GE stove/oven with a bad sensi-temp burner. I've tested the transformer and the sensor and they both check out, which leaves me with the responder. Has anyone ever worked with one of these? If so, how do I test this?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#3
Welcome to the forums.
Normally I'd make this a new thread but since the original post was never answered we'll make this a combo thread.
Don't see many GE sensi-temp's still working correctly.
You will need a volt/ohmmeter to check the transformer and sensor.
1) Unplug the range or turn the breaker off !
2) Follow the leads from the sensor to the responder switch and disconnect one of the wires.
3) Using your ohmmeter set on the Rx1 scale you should measure between 15-20 ohms on the two leads going to the sensor. If you read 0 ohms the sensor is shorted and is bad. If you don't read anything.....the sensor is open and bad.
4) Locate the transformer behind an access panel on the back of the range. Locate the two wires going to the responder switch. Remove one wire from the switch. Using your meter still set on Rx1 check between the two leads that go to the transformer. Basically any reading means the secondary is good. No reading means the transformer secondary is open and the transformer is bad. If the secondary checks ok we'll move on to the primary.
5) Locate the two wires that connect the primary side of the transformer to line voltage. Remove one wire from the line connection. Perform same test as in step 4.
There are three parts to the circuit. The transformer, the responder switch and the sensor.
The responder is hard to actually check so if you have a good sensor and a good transformer......replace the responder.
Normally I'd make this a new thread but since the original post was never answered we'll make this a combo thread.
Don't see many GE sensi-temp's still working correctly.

You will need a volt/ohmmeter to check the transformer and sensor.
1) Unplug the range or turn the breaker off !
2) Follow the leads from the sensor to the responder switch and disconnect one of the wires.
3) Using your ohmmeter set on the Rx1 scale you should measure between 15-20 ohms on the two leads going to the sensor. If you read 0 ohms the sensor is shorted and is bad. If you don't read anything.....the sensor is open and bad.
4) Locate the transformer behind an access panel on the back of the range. Locate the two wires going to the responder switch. Remove one wire from the switch. Using your meter still set on Rx1 check between the two leads that go to the transformer. Basically any reading means the secondary is good. No reading means the transformer secondary is open and the transformer is bad. If the secondary checks ok we'll move on to the primary.
5) Locate the two wires that connect the primary side of the transformer to line voltage. Remove one wire from the line connection. Perform same test as in step 4.
There are three parts to the circuit. The transformer, the responder switch and the sensor.
The responder is hard to actually check so if you have a good sensor and a good transformer......replace the responder.
#4
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I don't know if the participants are still in this forum, but I found this in my search to fix my stove as well. I had a bad sensor and took it out. I tied the two leads to the sensor together and now I just have a burner that goes on high and can't be adjusted. Its great for boiling water and nothing else. I haven't been able to find a sensor on the internet or eBay.
Have any of you found the sensor for sale anywhere?
Is there a way to convert the burner so it doesn't need to use the sensor and just adjust temperature like the other standard burners?
Thanks for your help!
Have any of you found the sensor for sale anywhere?
Is there a way to convert the burner so it doesn't need to use the sensor and just adjust temperature like the other standard burners?
Thanks for your help!
#5
I wound up replacing the responder with an infinite switch. Now it basically works like the other large burner on the stove. I was able to keep the 'Power Saver - Coil size selector' feature because I'm still using the original sense-temp burner.
Thanks for the info above on how to test the old transponder - I didn't know I'd ever gotten a reply until today.
Thanks for the info above on how to test the old transponder - I didn't know I'd ever gotten a reply until today.
#6
L.... your original post was before my time.
Interesting repair idea.
There may be sensors around. If you leave me your model number I could check for you.
Interesting repair idea.

There may be sensors around. If you leave me your model number I could check for you.
#7
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Additional
I had a similar issue and used the techniques discussed in this thread. It was very useful but what really helped was finding the schematic in a envelope taped on the inside of the back panel. Using the schematic to find the sensor, tranformer, surface unit responder and 3N1 burner element wiring led me to not only test but check connections to all mentioned. After tracing down each wire, I found that a wire going to the transformer was being pinched between the chassis and a cover plate exposing the wire. I taped the wire with E-tape and tried the unit,,, works great! If you do not have the schematic, I would be happy to send you a copy of mine.
#8
Welcome to the forums.
You were lucky it was just a pinched wire as these repair parts are almost impossible to find now.
You were lucky it was just a pinched wire as these repair parts are almost impossible to find now.