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11-24-12, 04:35 PM

Kelly Abernathy

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no spin

Whirlpool washer enters the rinse cycle then stops....won't drain or spin out. Have checked the clutch and the lid switch and both are fine...Any other ideas???

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11-24-12, 06:15 PM

pugsl

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Post model # is it a top loader or front loader???

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>Electric< Large Kitchen and Home Appliances
Any one know GPM on Dishwasher pumps?

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Pickerguy on Nov 24, 2012

the metal bin at my work had a pull out dishwasher on wheels. I snaged the pump for a project blower or maybe bilge pump. The inlet and outlet on the pump is 2 inches Inside Diameter. Ive never seen any this big but ive only seen a few. Some small 1 inch with brushless motors. The brushed motor on this is a monster with a colling fan. it has no plug and is wet so ive yet to hook it up and plug it in. Just looking for an estimated guess.Read More
>Electric< Large Kitchen and Home Appliances
Maytag F1, F3 Fault Codes & Parts

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schatham on Feb 08, 2005

Last Saturday, I cleaned our Maytag range, model MER5550AAH, and set it for the 3 hr clean cycle. About 5 minutes before the end of the cycle, it gave me a bunch of beeps - that sounded like it was shorted or something (i.e. the beeps were a real stuttered tone, and not any sort of measured pattern or regularity or tone as compared to the beeps the unit usually gives you). I hit cancel, and waited for the oven to cool down so the door would unlock. Once the door unlocked, I tried to use it, by just hitting the bake button and trying to heat the oven to 350. Immediately, the preheat light lit up, then went off, and then I got an F1 code in the display, along with a beep. I would hit cancel and it'd revert to the beep and F1 code until I was able to successfully cancel it off. I read somewhere that powering off the unit for a certain amount of time might reset it. I did this, and it came back to me with an F3 code this morning, and then went to the F1 code again. The oven doesn't work, but the cooktop functions as it should. Any subsequent attempt to use the oven part of it, whether it's a clean cycle, broil, bake or whatever always gives the F1 code. The F3 code has shown up only once. I called Maytag's service, they could only recommend a service technician in the area (who naturally hasn't returned my phone call). I called Sears, and the person I spoke with said it was most likely the clock (according to them, it's a single unit). My guess, after looking yesterday & seeing the error codes for the unit, is that it is most likely the clock, but could also be the Oven Temp sensor. Sears service said the F1 code was almost always the clock on this unit. As someone who is competent enough to build & work on computers, I feel sure that I can replace the clock in this unit - at worst, it's reconnecting ribbon cables and working with circuit boards, which I know requires grounding myself before touching the boards, etc. What I don't know though, is within what amount of certainty could it be the clock versus some other component. I'd like to chat with someone who's actually diagnosed & replaced one of these things, to get a feel for what I'm in for. The other part of it is the cost of the part. I called Sears, and their part - #74003636 - is $198.99 + about $14.00 shipping. I stopped at a local Lowes yesterday - investigating prices on replacing the range - and they have a Parts Hotline, 800-476-8160 saying they have parts available for all makes & models of appliances. They are selling this item (they gave me Maytag Replacement Part # 12001626), for $124.60 + $6.99 shipping. Being a complete tightwad, I like the chance of making a $130 mistake only slightly less than a $215 one. Just wondering why the vast difference in the cost? Anyone else have a good source for appliance parts that may be more reliable than one of these two? a $75 difference between the only two local major appliance dealers on a single part has me concerned as to whether either price is correct. Any help/advice appreciated.Read More

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