Kenmore Series 80 Washer Drips and Spin Cycle Sometimes Has Low Torque

Kenmore Series 80 washer 11027802690

I've replaced the pump (3363394), coupler (285753A), clutch (285785, including the mating white plastic piece that clips to the bottom of the drive basket), top seal in gear case (3349985), oil in gear case. There are two problems which existed before I changed those parts out:

(1) Spin cycle doesn't always engage with torque and/or stop quickly when I open the lid (it just spins freely and gradually slows down). The spin cycle works every time I've looked at it.

(2) Water drips from center of washer seemingly when the loads are full, towards the end of the wash cycle and into the spin cycle. The water appears to have some small black particles in it. The black can not be runoff from the top of the gear case since I cleaned the exterior, and it's not the coupler since I changed it and the black is not coming from under the coupler.

The housing interior previously had a ring of gunk about 6" from the bottom, that's why I changed out the top seal in the gear case and put in new oil, replaced the clutch including that white plastic piece. I inspected the gear case, I didn't see any chipped or broken parts inside.

When I had the agitator out, I didn't see any items underneath potentially blocking drainage.

The lid switch works and the timer starts every cycle appropriately as the knob turns.

Please help!

 

When it slows down in spin is there a knocking sound, Your problem is caused by a bad drive block, Have to take the basket out and replace block. The dripping is cause by a bad fill valve.
In spin the water will drain out than the motor stops, pause then restart and basket will spin than.

 

Ok, so the valve is 285805, and the drive block is 389140.

I haven't noticed any strange noises during the spin cycle - if it's not the drive block then what's the next thing to consider?

Additionally if I do replace the drive block, is there any gasket or seal or any other part I should inspect or replace, as long as I have the basket out?

 

If it's not the drive block then it's the transmission.
No real gaskets to replace with this repair.

From what I've read above you appear to be handy and that's a good thing.
You've probably had the machine completely apart but I've left you a video link to the replacement of the block. A fairly easy job....especially once you've seen it done.



Washer Drive Block (part #389140) - How To Replace - YouTube

 

Thanks, I'll dig into it this weekend and report back on my status.

 

One step forward, two steps back.

Drive block: I watched the video. I don't own the spanner wrench and couldn't buy one on Sunday, so I have to buy one during the week.

Fill valve: Replaced it with no problem. I ran the washer, and water was still dripping from the center of the washer. And the first time I ran the washer with the new fill valve in it, I smelled an electrical odor. It seemed to be weaker the second time I ran it, but I didn't run it again to see if the odor continued to decrease.

So where could the drips be coming from?

And could the electrical smell be the valves breaking in? Or is that an immediate problem?

 

Was the water dripping from where it would normally fill from ?
When the machine is turned off.....does the water still drip out ?

Electrical smell......Hmmmmm........the valves don't require a break in. They should not give off any odor.
You may to scout around for the source of the smell. Try the drive motor area first.

 

Water drips when the water level is high in the tub. It starts mid-way through the wash cycle and goes into the spin cycle. When the washer is off or the water level is lower, I haven't noticed any dripping. When I replaced the fill valve, I didn't see any water marks on it that would indicate it was the source of this drip. I figured the most likely source would be along the drive mechanism going into the tub.

While I was testing the washer after replacing the fill valve, the spin cycle failed to engage twice. Both times there was a loud, quickly repeating metal-on-metal banging noise. When I opened the lid and then shut it, the spin cycle engaged properly.

Is there a seal near the drive block that could have been damaged if the drive block itself is broken? Or maybe there's something else...?

 

You have a simple fill system on your washer. Either fill valve is not closing all the way or pressure switch is telling valve it needs more water (have never seen one do this), Unplug fill valve when dripping to see if water stops.
Drive block is pot medal and very soft. It sits in two tabs on shaft. Usually when one wares out it will keep spinning and make a knocking sound. Have never seen one so worn out that it does that when starting to spin.

 

I took apart the washer again and replaced the drive block 389140 and the tub seal 383727. Replacing the drive block has eliminated the low torque issue in the spin cycle. The tub now spins fast and brakes fast as well.

But as I got to the tub seal I knew that wasn't the cause of the drip. Any water leaking past the tub seal would drip along the support 280184 and away from the center of the washer. Plus, the new clutch and the top of the gear case had new water stains since last time I was in there.

I pulled out the drive tube 64208 from the support and saw that the outside of the drive tube had some very rough areas, and that the centerpost bearings and seals 285203 looked damaged. The inside of the support shaft was gunked up, however the inside of the drive tube was clean.

I now believe that water is dripping past the centerpost bearings and seals, which makes sense because water deposits would land on the clutch and drip down onto the gear case and ultimately exactly where I see the water dripping onto the floor.

I am wondering if this type of damage over the years indicates a larger problem and if it's worth it at this point to replace the drive tube and the centerpost bearings and seals?

If yes, what can I use to punch out the old centerpost bearings and seals, considering there may be a lot of gunk in there keeping them in the centerpost?

And can I use multi-purpose grease like Lucas Oil Red N Tacky, or do I have to use something special?

THANKS

 

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...od=11027802690
#1 is the Drive tube, Have never seen one leak through tube. Top should be out of water most times but I guess it could leak with a full tub, Usually replaced because drive block tabs are bent.