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No Power to or from in door water dispenser switch so inlet solenoid not working

No Power to or from in door water dispenser switch so inlet solenoid not working

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  #1  
Old 01-06-13, 07:22 AM
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No Power to or from in door water dispenser switch so inlet solenoid not working

Model Number: GD25FFCHT00
Brand: Whirlpool
Age: 6-10 years


Have Whirlpool Refrigerator with ice and water dispenser in door. Ice maker works and can dispense through door. Water does not dispense.
Checked:

  • Continuity of door activator switch - good
  • Continuity of Freezer door open switch - good
  • Continuity between purple wire on switch to solenoid – good
  • Continuity between tan jumper from ice dispenser switch and water dispenser switch - good
  • Continuity between Jumper from both water inlet valve solenoids – good
  • Replaced water inlet valve and confirmed operation through jumper which made water flow through coils and out of connection where coil connects to feed to door dispenser.
  • bypassed the whole filter with direct line to inlet valve works for ice still no door water.
  • Replaced control board original appeared to have a small burned spot between solder connectors under the 6 prong plug on board.
Problem appears to be that the solenoid on the water inlet valve is not getting power to or from the door switch. I am stumped where to go next. Don’t have a wiring diagram so don’t know what controls what. Possible a fusible link in system???
 
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  #2  
Old 01-06-13, 02:19 PM
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No.....not a fusible link. I'll try to locate a wiring diagram and we'll continue.
 
  #3  
Old 01-06-13, 05:34 PM
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Here's the wiring Diagram. Link can be clicked on and downloaded for full size

GD25FFCHT00 photo

 
  #4  
Old 01-06-13, 05:39 PM
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Wow.....awesome pic. THANK YOU
 
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Old 01-06-13, 05:58 PM
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My brother has the same fridge so he suggested that he could scan it and send you a link. Glad it worked. Appears you were right no fusible link. This problem really has me confused as no apparent easy reason that I can see as all Purple wires all the way from switch, to solenoid, to the control board have continuity. appreciate your thoughts
 
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Old 01-06-13, 08:14 PM
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Ok...wanted to get back earlier but duty called.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • Continuity between purple wire on switch to solenoid – good
  • Continuity between tan jumper from ice dispenser switch and water dispenser switch - good
  • Continuity between Jumper from both water inlet valve solenoids – good
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyway...in looking at your print....I see 3 switches.
Ice lever - Water lever - Display lock switch (optional)

I take it that these are the mechanical switches in the front of the door that a cup would hit....correct ?
Does the ice lever work ?
 
  #7  
Old 01-07-13, 05:55 AM
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Correct on all continuity tests. Ice lever does work. Checked continuity on all of the door mechanical switches mentioned in your post, those are also all good and operational. I am beginning now to suspect that I may have gotten a defective control board, as from diagram only thing I don't know how to test, so replaced it. I know switch continuity, switch bracket good, solenoid good and all pertinent wire has continuity. Board still under warranty (less than month old) so unless you can suggest how to test it will pull it and send it back.
 
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Old 01-07-13, 06:10 AM
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No way to get a better pic of that schematic? Cant zoom in on photobucket.....
 
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Old 01-07-13, 08:35 AM
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If you click on the link to the photobucket picture, you can select download from the options menu just above the photo. Once downloaded you can use your picture viewer program to zoom in on it.
 
  #10  
Old 01-07-13, 09:33 AM
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If you look at those two switches.......they are both fed from a common source.....probably 120v.
You confirmed that the ice lever works. The water lever is almost a mirror image circuit.
When you activate water lever power should leave there on purple wire. You confirmed purple wire good. Then it must be there. Have you also confirmed neutral at the valve ? It would be white.

I'm trying to determine what the control board has to do with the water dispenser.
It looks like there is two ways to activate water.......the actual mechanical switch and some kind of command from the module.

I'm out on a job now and won't be back until early this evening. We'll continue then if you can wait.
I don't feel it's a control board issue
 
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Old 01-07-13, 10:05 AM
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I was just thinking....I know what the control board is used for in this application. There is a signal sent to it when water switch is depressed so that it can track water used......hence.....it knows when to tell you to change the water filter. Does this sound correct ?

As I look at this problem it looks like it may be a broken wire in the door hinge area where all the wires pass thru. It's going to require some prodding to locate it.
 
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Old 01-07-13, 04:14 PM
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Just got home from work sorry took so long to respond. I agree that the function of the control board is to tell you when to change the water filter and probably has nothing to do with power to the switch. From diagram and physically looking at it the power comes from a grey wire which feeds both the ice dispenser switch and the water dispenser switch from the display lock switch on the door panel. These wires and switches all have continuity and the ice dispenser works. The neutral is white jumps from both ice maker solenoid (which does work) to water dispenser solenoid (which is new and works) and then jumps to the cooling fan which does work. All same circuit for neutral. Only difference between both door switches is the load side to the solenoids, with the purple going to the water dispenser solenoid directly to the switch. Since this wire has continuity unlikely to be broken at door. So to me this simply makes no electrical sense unless that jump to the control board preforms some other function that to me also makes no sense. As I stated in earlier post if I power the solenoid directly with a 110v jumper I get water so know that no other issues in system other than no power to switch.
 
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Old 01-07-13, 07:01 PM
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So when you put power on the purple wire at the water lever it doesn't appear at the water valve.
Is that correct ?

When you put power on the purple wire at the water lever.....does it appear at the control board ?
 
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Old 01-07-13, 08:22 PM
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PJmax Took your suggestion to examine the path of the wires again. First checked to see that there was power to the load side of switch (grey wire) there was. Then changed switches with the ice dispenser side since I was sure that switch worked and they were the same switch. Still no water. Followed the load side (purple wire) from switch with volt meter to the first connector still had power. At the next connector bottom of freezer door lost power. As you suggested if no power there must be a broken wire in loom inside the door. Did also confirm continuity between purple wire at solenoid and control board as good.

Looks like you solved the power mystery. My heartfelt thanks. Have no idea now how to replace that wire harness in the door. Any ideas there?? I sure appreciate your time and effort.
 
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Old 01-07-13, 08:33 PM
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You're welcome.

We'll figure this out. Usually the wiring breaks where it goes from the door thru the hinge to the main cabinet. It breaks right at the hinge point.....since that's where it flexes.

* Pete *
 
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Old 01-07-13, 08:44 PM
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Looks like the wiring harness is continous from water/ice dispenser area to bottom of freezer door.
Looks like there may be a plug(s) at base of freezer door by hinge point.
If you look at pic of harness it will show you if there are any plugs/connections to look for

Click on blow up of freezer door.

Whirlpool 2203170 - Wire Harness | PartSelect
 
  #17  
Old 01-07-13, 08:55 PM
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The one pictured is actually behind the panel that the switch is behind, that one tested good it is the next one that runs from this one pictured to the bottom of the door that is bad. Even if I had one don't have a clue how to replace it without tearing apart the door and not sure how to do that.
 
  #18  
Old 01-07-13, 09:02 PM
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Use the exploded view pic in the link above. There may be screws behind the door gasket.
If what you say is correct....then there is an intermediate cable that is not shown in parts listing.

Doesn't suprrise me. Could be a defective crimp at the plug.

I'm not due for a vacation yet so I can't help you down there
 
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Old 01-07-13, 09:09 PM
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I'll check the door gasket but bottled water is sounding better at this point. Sorry about no vacation you guys up there certainly deserve a break after the storm. From NY myself so know getting cold about now.
 
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Old 01-07-13, 09:15 PM
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Keep us posted on your progress and have a on me.
 
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