GE Frig Evap Fan Not Running

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Old 02-22-13, 05:05 PM
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GE Frig Evap Fan Not Running

[size=3][/size]gota ge top-freezer frig last month (manufactured in 2004). Evap fan wasn'tcomingon very often. Continuity test was normal for control temp (part 300) &control defrost (defrost timer, part 648) in the refrigerator section.

iunplugged evap fan in back of freezer & after i plugged it back in& movedwire it a bit, i saw a flash, like a wire shorted where it plugs in. evap fan doesn't run now.

whatnext? Assume i need to test the evap fan motor (part 610) & defrost thermostat(part 620)? Is a continuity test useful diagnosis on the evap fan motor if iunplug frig & take evap fan motor out of the freezer?
[size=3][/size]anyway to eyeball the defrost thermostat to see if it is good or not withoutcutting the wire, removing it & doing a continuity test on it?
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what'sthe likelihood that only the evaporator fan motor needs replacing on this frig?

thanks!

sample temperatures at temp setting 2 (9 is coldest setting): Freezer -31 &frig 38 about 6.5 hrs from last defrost cycle; freezer 9 & frig 36 whiledefrost cycle was finishing; freezer -13 & frig 37 just after defrost cyclefinished

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Old 02-22-13, 08:28 PM
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GE Evaporator fan now running; 2 questions

[size=3][/size]update: I removed evaporator fan fromfreezer. Continuity test doesnít workwith the evaporator fan motor (got 1 or infinity when i tested motor). When iput it back together the evaporator fan came on when it was supposed to. Looks like one of the rubber bumpers wasmissing to center the fan, & the fan blade may have been pushed too fardown on the shaft.
[size=3][/size]the top of the defrost thermostat is uniformlyblue in color----just curious if can you tell if thatís a good thermostat by appearancewithout cutting the wires & testing it?
[size=3][/size]i noticed 7 small holeson the front of the evaporator fan motor---arethose supposed to be oiled? If yes, whatkind of oil? thanks

 
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Old 02-23-13, 02:24 PM
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On this site.....DIY.....it's important to type your post directly. Importing from other devices yields posts that are very hard to read.

You should check your evaporator motor with an ohm meter set on Rx1 or rx10 scale. You should see the meter moves considerably. I'm guessing anywhere around 100 ohms would be ok.

The evaporator motor is not designed to be lubricated.....you can try it but it wasn't designed for service. Any good light machine oil like 3 in 1 would work. Try putting a drop on each bearing. (where the shaft enters the motor) Sprays like WD-40 are not effective.

You can not tell the status/condition of a thermostat by looking at it. It must be tested with a meter. The defrost thermostat shuts off the defrost coil when in defrost mode so that the evaporator assembly doesn't get too hot. Are you having a defrost issue ?
 
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Old 02-23-13, 05:46 PM
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Evap fan now running; has a growling sound at times when running

PJMax: thank you for your response. have no problem with defrosting; the defrost timer runs very regularly. Here's the weird part about the evaporator fan---i tested a 2ns evap fan from same model frig & the motor just got hot in the back but fan did not run. i removed it & put my 1st evap fan in & it ran but i noticed it was not seated correctly (rubber washer on backside had pushed thru) so i reinstalled it & fan did not run. then i unplugged frig without turning it off & plugged it back in about a minute later & the 1st evap fan was running. the 1st evap fan motor did not get hot on the backside when it was not running. evap fan running now has a growling sound at times---is this from how fan is seated or is it the motor?

i know how to test for continuity with multitester but not sure how to test for ohms---is the fridg plugged in for this test?
 
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Old 02-24-13, 02:45 AM
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If the fan is running then the motor winding is ok.
You use an ohm meter to check the fan motor's winding to see if it's open. If the motor gets warm or runs then the winding is good. When checking for continuity in a circuit.....device is not connected and there must not be any voltage on the circuit.

Growling noise sounds like a lubrication problem.
 
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Old 02-25-13, 08:25 PM
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On 2/23 I took evap fan out, put it back in & it ran when compressor was running (it growled at times & then the growling stopped after a short while & evap fan still worked). since 2/24 evap fan not running when compressor is on. assume no harm if i take out evap motor & put 3 in 1 oil in 7 small holes in front side of fan motor in case that is related to growling noise?

I took evap fan out again tonight, 2/25, & tested ohms (my cen-tech digital meter doesn't have Rx1 or Rx10 scale so i set it on lowest setting for ohms at 200), i touched both meter leads together to get reading down near 0, then touched each lead inside each of 2 evap fan motor wires in socket & it tested 1 ohm. did same thing at 200k ohms & still got 1 reading. since the reading did not fluctuate or change can i assume that the evap fan motor is shot or is it something else that caused the fan motor to stop working?

just trying to figure out why the evap fan runs for awhile when i hook it back up & then stops running when the compressor is running.
I did see a brief flash the first time i plugged evap fan back in near where the fan plug connects to other plug----how can i check if something shorted here?

freezer is very cold at -21 to -29 degrees & frig is 38 degrees. assume freezer is too cold because evap fan is not working to move cool air efficiently around the freezer & down into frig.

does this 14.9 cu ft ge frig model GTS 15BCRFRWW have a main control board? if so where is it located (nothing to open up on top back of frig)? i assume this is a simple one & not an electronic frig?

thank you!
 
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Old 02-25-13, 09:59 PM
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I put one drop of 3 in 1 oil in each of 7 smallholes in front face of evap fan. With evapfan removed I tested ohms of 2 wires inside the wire harness that connects toevap fan which never changed from 1. I testedwire harness on other end (ie where evap fan wire harness plugs in) & ittested 4.3 to 4.5 ohms. I put the fanback in the freezer & evap fan is running & no longer makes growlingsound. Is this fan on itís last legswith the ohm test results I got because I took it out 2 days ago, put it back in& it ran for about Ĺ day then stopped running. OR is it some other problem that is causing the fan motor not to work?

one other question: on this GE refrigerator is the evaporator fan ALWAYS supposed to be running when the compressor is running (14.9 cu ft, made in 2004, model GTS15BCRFRWW)? thanks!
 
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Old 02-25-13, 10:00 PM
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freezer is very cold at -21 to -29 degrees & frig is 38 degrees. assume freezer is too cold because evap fan is not working to move cool air efficiently around the freezer & down into frig.
That is correct.

Your fridge does not have an electronic control board.

Those motors can sometimes try your patience. The cold can affect them.
If you connect your ohm meter AND the meter moves......then the motor winding is ok.

When you plugged it in you saw a spark......that's pretty normal as the plug is translucent allowing the spark to be seen. You can check at this plug for 120 vac.

Those fans can be wired in one of two ways.......the fan will run as long as unit is turned on.
OR
The fan only runs when the compressor is running.
Most run all the time.

I used to take those fans apart. Clean the bearings with lighter fluid. Reassemble them with a drop of 3 in 1 at both ends. They might run for another year or not.
Now I just replace them.

The link is the parts listing for your fridge. Under the pic..... click on "view full size." The pic will open in a new page. Click on that pic and it will be full screen. Use your cursor and arrow buttons to navigate. The fan is pictorial # 650. Actual part # WR60X10168
Google that part number for many places that sell it.....as well as Amazon and ebay.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...d=GTS15BCRFRWW
 
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Old 02-26-13, 07:56 AM
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Frig Evap Fan running last night; not running this morning

this morning the evaporative fan is not running & freezer temp is too low (-22 degrees) because the cool air is not circulating around freezer & frig (frig is 34.5 degrees at 5 setting).

when i connected multimeter to wires in evap fan wire harness, it did not move. but when i connected meter to wires in other end that connects to evap fan it did move to 4.3 to 4.5 ohms. is this a clear indication that the problem is the evap fan only?

would like to check evap fan wiring harness plug, as suggested, for 120 vac---how do i do it? thanks!
 
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Old 02-26-13, 08:53 AM
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When you have the meter in ohms......the circuit you are checking can NOT be live.

So to check the motor for continuity.....unplug it from the fridge....with your meter on ohms setting connect to the fan plug - if you see movement of the meter the motor windings are good. A reading of 4-5 ohms is ok. If the motor windings are good and the motor wont spin then the bearings are getting bound up in the cold.

To check for AC from fridge.....put your meter in the next AC scale over 120 volts. Place your probes carefully in the plug where the fan was plugged in. Try measuring the voltage with thermostat on and off.....this way you'll know if fan is supposed to run all the time.
 
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Old 02-26-13, 01:12 PM
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question for PJmax

Thank you, PJ. That reading of 4.3 to 4.5 ohms was with frig unplugged & testing wires that are not part of the evap fan; they are the wires that the evap fan harness plugs into. the evap fan wires don't test anything other than 1 with the ohm reading---so does this mean the fan needs replacing? anything else the likely culprit?

When you mention i can check evap fan at this plug for 120 vac, & to check for AC from fridge.....put your meter in the next AC scale over 120 volts. Place your probes carefully in the plug where the fan was plugged in. Try measuring the voltage with thermostat on and off.....this way you'll know if fan is supposed to run all the time.-
--couple quick questions: this centech meter has ohms, DCV ACV, DCA, etc.; do i change the setting to DCV 20 or 200 to run this test?
---is the frig plugged into electrical outlet or not?
---assume i plug meter probes into the plug that goes into refrig wall after i unplug the evap meter, & not the plug to the evap meter; & then switch the temperature control in the frig on to measure & then off to measure w/ meter?


Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ne...#ixzz2M2OocgVE-


---I'm not understanding if the frig is unplugged or plugged in


Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ne...#ixzz2M2OMFYUg
 
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Old 02-26-13, 06:35 PM
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GE Frig Evap Fan now running---for how long?

Tested the ge frig (model GTS15BCRFRWW) evaporative fan motor with a piece of electric cord plugged into AC outlet & other end touching evap fan plug wires, & the evap fan ran with no problems. i put evap fan back in frig & it started right up same time the compressor started up. waiting to see if evap fan runs longer than 1 day...

Also tested a different evap fan motor (used; same make & model) & it also did not test anything other than 1 on ohm setting---could it be that there is a capacitor or something in this evap fan motor that prevents an ohm reading that does not change, & stays at 1? (the other end that plugs into the evap fan from the frig tests 4.3 to 4.5 ohms).

now to test for 120 vac, i want to ask if this is how i do it:
  • set centech meter at 200 ACV
  • unplug evap fan
  • with frig still plugged into AC outlet, put red & black meter probes into 2 wires in plug that is connected to the frig (ie not into evap fan plug but into other end of plug that is live with electricity)
  • check if reading is close to 110 ac, if it is lower than 110 then evap fan is not getting enough power to run properly

thank you!
 
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Old 02-26-13, 09:20 PM
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Does this GE Frig have a control board?

PJmax: does this GE frig (model GTS15BCRFRWW, 14.9 cu foot, made in 2004) have a control board? If so, do you know where it is? See attached schematic that was stuck on back of frig. Trying to figure out what else could be going on with frig when i wake up tom. morning & find the evap fan again not running.

Please see my other questions in previous post. Thank you very much!!!!!!!
 
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Old 02-26-13, 10:22 PM
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now to test for 120 vac, i want to ask if this is how i do it:
  • set centech meter at 200 ACV
  • unplug evap fan
  • with frig still plugged into AC outlet, put red & black meter probes into 2 wires in plug that is connected to the frig (ie not into evap fan plug but into other end of plug that is live with electricity)
  • check if reading is close to 110 ac, if it is lower than 110 then evap fan is not getting enough power to run properly
Yes.......that is correct.

Based on the pictures/schematic you left me:
1) There is no control board hiding in that fridge. It uses a basic thermostat and a basic defrost timer
2) The evaporator fan only runs when the compressor is running.

When you put the motor in......it's warm and it runs fine. The fridge gets to temp and the compressor and the evap, motor stop running. The evap motor gets cold and the bearings freeze up. When the compressor comes back on the fan won't.....as it is frozen.

At this point......change the motor.

When you are checking the continuity of an item....it's basically a measure of resistance.
When the meter is on Rx1 it means the resistance you measure is actual resistance.
Rx10 is ten times actual resistance. Rx100 and so on.

It's a little trickier on an auto ranging ohmmeter. You have to watch for the decimal point on the screen.

When checking a motor like you are......the actual resistance or ohms reading isn't really important. When you touch your meter leads together.....the reading should be very close to 0 since it's a dead short. When you now connect those leads to your motor......you should get a similar reading since the motor is technically a coil of wire and can be considered a dead short to the meter. You may see 1 ohm or 10 ohms or 45 ohms......as long as you get a reading when connected the motor's winding is ok.

Don't bother checking with ohms at the plug into the fridge.....the one where the fan plugs in. That reading is meaningless.
 
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Old 02-27-13, 09:54 PM
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Thank you, PJmax! It's working now

Thanks so much for all your help, PJmax!! Frig is running as should be now. Regards
 
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Old 02-27-13, 10:14 PM
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Excellent news ....... good job


Now back to the Excellence.
 
 

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