LG Dishwasher Dead - LDS5811ST
#1
04-30-13, 07:00 PM
Member
Thread Starter
LG Dishwasher Dead - LDS5811ST
Fatal or worth fixing. Have always had intermittent problems with this dishwasher. Has the ability to wash top only, bottom only or both. Switch kept failing so I modified the diverter so that whatever position it was in, both top and bottom worked. This is, however, another major issue.
Worked fine yesterday. Today, would not even turn on. Unit definitely getting power. It appears I have fried the main board - see pictures. Arrow point to the same area on both front and back of the main board. Melted plastic, etc..... My question is as follows. Given the area on the board, was this an isolated incident that the board failed, or did some other failure prompt the burnt motherboard. I don't want to replace an expensive part only to have it burn out again.
Also, there are 3 listed parts that correspond to the motherboard I am looking at. All three are designed to fit this model. Which one do I purchase or where do I verify the correct board.
Thanks to the crew as always.
Worked fine yesterday. Today, would not even turn on. Unit definitely getting power. It appears I have fried the main board - see pictures. Arrow point to the same area on both front and back of the main board. Melted plastic, etc..... My question is as follows. Given the area on the board, was this an isolated incident that the board failed, or did some other failure prompt the burnt motherboard. I don't want to replace an expensive part only to have it burn out again.
Also, there are 3 listed parts that correspond to the motherboard I am looking at. All three are designed to fit this model. Which one do I purchase or where do I verify the correct board.
Thanks to the crew as always.
#2
04-30-13, 11:33 PM
Group Moderator
There are four circuit boards listed for that line of dishwashers. There are also three different machines based on production runs.
LDS5811ST or LDS5811ST-01 or LDS5811ST-02
The circuit board should have a number on it like: 6871DDxxxxx
If not then you'll have to order the board by model and serial number. I don't have that cross reference info.
What actually burned on the board ? A component or just crappy solder around one of the high current connector plugs.
LDS5811ST or LDS5811ST-01 or LDS5811ST-02
The circuit board should have a number on it like: 6871DDxxxxx
If not then you'll have to order the board by model and serial number. I don't have that cross reference info.
What actually burned on the board ? A component or just crappy solder around one of the high current connector plugs.
#3
05-01-13, 03:52 AM
Member
Thread Starter
It looks like someone poured amber maple syrup in the area. Turned the green board brownish. I found a wiring diagram in an online service manual. My picture is orientated hanging upside down compared to the diagram. So it relates to the area marked - Noise filter. I also initially thought the wires on several harnesses were fried, but it turns out that is rubber from the steel carcass sound deadening that melted during the flash and stuck to the wires. Or it had been running hot for a while.
http://www.full-timers.com.ar/lg/LDF...ice_Manual.pdf
Where would I search on the board for the number?
http://www.full-timers.com.ar/lg/LDF...ice_Manual.pdf
Where would I search on the board for the number?
#4
05-01-13, 08:13 AM
Group Moderator
In some of the exploded pics I've looked at of the board it looks like a sticker on the board.
The noise filter may be a replacement part. It is on a number of LG products.
The noise filter may be a replacement part. It is on a number of LG products.
#5
05-01-13, 12:49 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Unfortunately, the board is melted in that area, won't be able to replace. Looks like I need to weigh the cost of havingthe happen again or bite the bullet and buy new. Thanks PJ appreciate the time.
#6
05-01-13, 01:34 PM
Group Moderator
The noise filter is just a coil of wire... like a choke.... to suppress incoming crap from getting into the control board. I've seen the filters and they seem to be of light duty.
Either it failed naturally or the solder connections weren't proper.
Tough call..... me - I'd fix it
Did the unit clean good when it was working ? If you replace the board will the machine clean as it should ?
When my machine got to 15 years old it just wasn't cleaning well so I replaced it. It didn't justify the cost of further repairs.
Either it failed naturally or the solder connections weren't proper.
Tough call..... me - I'd fix it
Did the unit clean good when it was working ? If you replace the board will the machine clean as it should ?
When my machine got to 15 years old it just wasn't cleaning well so I replaced it. It didn't justify the cost of further repairs.
#7
05-01-13, 05:41 PM
Member
Thread Starter
I'll check with my local appliance parts guy and see what the "risk" is to fix it with a new control board. On line looks like $170 + S&H. Hopefully, the local guy can get me a break as a contractor (I'll smile a lot
) but as I have found out, you don't get anything unless you ask for it.
The question I still have to ponder - do I spend 30% of the purchase price of new only to find out that I need to spend 100% to replace when the fix goes awry. So Spend 100% or 130% down the road to fix. Hmmmmm.
Thanks again
) but as I have found out, you don't get anything unless you ask for it.The question I still have to ponder - do I spend 30% of the purchase price of new only to find out that I need to spend 100% to replace when the fix goes awry. So Spend 100% or 130% down the road to fix. Hmmmmm.
Thanks again
