Kenmore refrigerator ice maker problem?

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Old 08-10-13, 04:37 PM
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Question Kenmore refrigerator ice maker problem?

I have Kenmore refrigerator. I just bought the new ice maker sine it is broken. I installed it and it did not work until 2 weeks later, it started making some ices although it stopped mading it. Is the fan broken too?
 
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Old 08-11-13, 07:58 PM
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When it produced ice did the cubes look normal sized ?

Make sure water supply valve is turned on all the way.
Make sure freezer temperature is below 10 degrees. Preferably between 5 and 0.

I'm not sure which fan you are referring to..... possibly the one in the freezer that moves cold air to the fridge ?

I need a model number for specific troubleshooting information.
 
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Old 09-05-13, 10:32 AM
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I have a similar problem. I just replaced the optic sensors in my Kenmore freezer because my icemaker would not stop making ice. I turned the water off as I waited for the parts to arrive. I replaced the boards and turned the water back on. the ice maker will not fill with water. I put water in the tray, the ice maker made the cubes and harvested them but the tray did not fill with water??
 
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Old 09-06-13, 12:55 AM
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Welcome to the forums.


I put water in the tray, the ice maker made the cubes and harvested them but the tray did not fill with water??
Good thinking. That tells you that the timer motor in the ice maker is ok.

It may take over 24 hours to purge the air out of the water line.
 
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Old 09-25-13, 12:53 PM
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I just registered so please tell me if I'm doing this wrong. My Ice maker quit also. Kenmore model 106.56536400. Using YouTube videos I troubleshot and when I checked points L-N I found 32vac. The black and white pins on the connector cable also read 32vac when I disconnected Icemaker. All sources I found said 120 or 0 vac, does this 32vac mean anything? Thanks
 
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Old 09-25-13, 06:32 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

You should have 120vac on those connections. Some icemakers do not work when the freezer door is open. If you have a freezer that has a light in it......hold the button in and measure the voltage again on L and N.

If still no power.... check from the frame of the fridge (ground) to L first and then N.
What do you measure ?
 
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Old 09-25-13, 08:01 PM
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If you are using a digital meter, especially an inexpensive one, you may be seeing a phantom voltage reading.
 
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Old 09-27-13, 05:59 AM
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Thanks for the replys.
I "shut" the door, got out my old analog meter and used Frame. 0 on all points L, N, Black, White
I did notice though, that the Optics red light goes out when door is "shut". Otherwise it works just as everyone says it should.
 
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Old 09-27-13, 11:56 AM
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The ice maker gets its power from the receiver board. The receiver board gets its power thru the door/light switch. So the lights on when door closes means you have power to that point. You will need to check black/white wire on pin 4 of the receive board.

When the receiver board doesn't detect the beam from the transmit (emitter) board it keeps power off to the ice maker. So in essence it would assume the beam is blocked by ice. When you block the beam with your hand.... is there a visual signal that it's blocked ?



tech sheet W10142159a
 
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Old 09-27-13, 12:54 PM
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Yes, when the flapper or anything else blocks the beam the light blinks twice and pauses. When there is no blockage the Red Light is on solid. When the door switch is pressed (door shut) the Red light goes out at the same time as the internal light bulb
 
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Old 09-27-13, 08:47 PM
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In the link below is some diagnostic information. The LED is attached to the control board so it's easy to find. If you want to check further I left you the voltages you should see on the board. You should check the black/white for 120vac. That's the wire that feeds the ice maker. Don't forget....the door needs to be "closed" when checking board and you'll have to aim that board at the emitter board so that it doesn't think the bin is full.

4389102 - Ice Level Optics Board Diagnostics & Replacement


voltages found on optics contro board
1) orange/black - to emitter board (don't test)
2) brown/white - to emitter board (don't test)
3) black - 120vac in (power to board)
4) black/white - 120vac out (to ice maker)
6) yellow - 120vac switched in (from door switch) 120vac when door is open
8) white - neutral
 
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Old 09-29-13, 04:12 PM
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insured signal complete [red light always on]
pin 3 =120vac
pin 4 = 0

I took this to mean I needed Optics Boards so ordered them

Also noticed that either it was, or in my fumbling, the pin for the white gear [ice remover] got broken so ordered a complete ice maker since I was there.

Will update you when new installed.

Thanks for all your help.
 
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Old 09-29-13, 06:22 PM
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You are welcome. Please stop back and let us know the outcome.
 
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Old 10-08-13, 06:24 AM
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Received both parts on Saturday, installed them very easily. Manually filled ice tray (not full) with water, had ice in 45 minutes, second batch of ice in 90 minutes. Took me untill Monday afternoon for the icebox to fill (amazing how much ice you use when you have it) so we could truely test auto shutoff. 100% operation.

Again Thanks a Lot for your Guidance.
 
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Old 10-08-13, 11:47 PM
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Great news and good job ! Thanks for stopping back and updating us.
 
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Old 10-19-13, 03:59 PM
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I also have zero volts to L-N.

Zero volts on L-N. Zero volts on the connector leading to the ice maker. Could I have been on a wild goose chase? Does the light on/ flapper out state cause the zero volts? It did not occur to me to check that while I had the I/M out.

Oh, and my I/M mounts horizontally (left/right, not front/back) so I can not access the test points without removing the I/M and, probably, warming it up in the process.

History: All was fine (we think) until we emptied the bin to fill a cooler. I assume the bin was full so not sure when the ice maker last cycled. Could have been weeks. Later that day I heard the ice maker clicking. I work from home and was deeply involved with crisis so did not take the time to check it. Then the clicking stopped. 'Good' I thought.

The ice maker had ejected one load of ice and then no more. But the tray was full of ice. I removed the I/M, allowed it to thaw and reinstalled it. It filled with water which froze but never ejected.


Now: Flapper out, LED goes flash-flash-pause. Flapper in, LED on. Light off, LED off.

In another thread I saw mention of the fact that if the ejector arm is not in the correct position the whole cycle won't start. Mine are at about 10:00 looking back at the motor down the shaft of the ejector. Is that correct? I am wondering if I have multiple problems.
 
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Old 10-19-13, 04:18 PM
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If you don't have the same exact Kenmore fridge then diagnostics may not be the same. The complete diagnostics for the original fridge are listed above. If the door is open you won't get any power to the ice maker. The LED for the ice bin needs to be on steady for power to the I/M.

If your fridge is different please post the model number and this may become a new thread.
 
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Old 10-27-13, 06:11 AM
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Model 106.56826602

Serial ST2644702.

Terribly sorry for not replying sooner. I thought I would see an email if anyone responded. I will do better. I checked the Subscription box this time.
 
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Old 02-11-14, 05:46 PM
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Kick-start the thread

Finally getting back to fixing my ice maker. Hoping I can restart this discussion.

I pulled the IM and applied power to the motor on the bench and the motor runs. So I figured it is not the IM itself.

I replaced both optics boards even though the diagnostics steps indicate they are working and then bypassed the bimetal to start a harvest and nothing moved. Not surprising since I still have no line voltage on L-N.

Last August I found a site that described the fact that the IM must be in a 'home' position for anything to start. I can not tell from looking where home is. I am thinking somewhere between 9:00 and 10:00 o'clock.

Suggestions graciously accepted.

********************************************************************
One hour later.... What's this? Water running into the not-in-the-right-place IM and all over the floor? That's different!

Not sure what is going on... Certainly not confidant it is 'fixed'. But this is a promising sign.

I am thinking one of two things. Either the Optics Boards fixed the problem. Or when I powered the IM on the bench I stopped the motor with the harvester at about 9:30 which I think is somewhere near 'home'. That kicked the cycle off and, maybe, the optics boards had nothing to do with it. In either case, the IM then needed to get cold to start the water flowing.

Could it be that the IM just needed to get cold enough? Will report back tomorrow
 

Last edited by kayakor; 02-11-14 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 02-11-14, 06:07 PM
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Of course you can restart this discussion. It may take me a little time to get back up to speed with you.

In post 11 I discuss testing the optic board and there is a link there.

Does your optics board match up and do your voltages match the ones I have listed ?
 
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Old 02-11-14, 06:28 PM
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(See the edit I added to my last post.)

I had the problem of the 'floating' voltage at the IM. It continued to float after replacing the Optics boards. So I am not at all confidant the optics boards were the problem.

To answer your question
3) black - 120vac in (power to board) YES
4) black/white - 120vac out (to ice maker) FLOAT
6) yellow - 120vac switched in (from door switch) 120vac when door is open YES
8) white - neutral
 
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Old 08-15-14, 09:51 AM
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Six months past and all is well. I am pretty certain the 'only' problem was that the IM was not at 'home'.
 
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Old 08-15-14, 11:43 PM
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Thanks for the update
 
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