GE Refrigerator stopped cooling...

I bought a used side-by-side GE refrigerator 1 and half month ago from CL and it was working fine until day before yesterday.
Fan turns on when I turn the cold setting but it doesn't cool.
Is the compressor out or freon?
Thanks for suggestions

 

When you turn the thermostat to cold..... the evaporator fan inside the fridge should start as well as the condensor fan and compressor under the fridge. If both fans start up but not the compressor then it could be a problem with the start relay/overload on the compressor.

Usually, even if the system is out of freon you'll hear the compressor start.

If you leave me a model number I can leave you with some info on how to check the compressor.

 

Model: GSS25JEMC BB

It looks like refrigerator side is colder than the freezer.
Refrigerator is much colder than room temperature.
What's going on?
thanks

 

Yes.... what's going on. Mystery..... you're confusing me.

Your first post said it doesn't cool.
Now you're saying the fridge is colder than room temp but the freezer is warmer. So that would mean the freezer is at room temperature ?

It sounds like maybe the evaporator coils in the freezer are iced up possibly because of a non working defrost system.

You can remove the back access cover in the rear of the freezer to check the coil for ice or if you don't have much in there.... put the stuff on ice or in the garage and unplug the fridge, open the doors and let it sit for 24 hours to unthaw and then plug it back in.

The link below is the inside of your freezer. # 214 is the cover that must be removed if you decide to go that route. If you click on pic it will expand.

Sears parts direct png/PLDM/G0311085-00006.png

 

Yes, this afternoon, freezer was at room temperature but refrigerator was much colder.
I took the back cover off and there is no ice anywhere.
Then I turned the fridge on and watched.
When I turned the temperature knobs to coldest, fan kicked in but the black round compressor stayed silent.
May be it's POS now.

 

Didn't they give you any type of warranty ? You've only had it 45 days.
Sometimes they won't repair it but they'll replace it with another used unit.

Did you want to check into the compressor and try troubleshooting it ?
A meter would be a big help but you might see something visually.
If it's the starter/overload device it would definitely have to be ordered.

 

I bought it from a guy, not company so there is no warranty or guarantee other than that it worked at the time of purchase.
I'm not that handy with appliances so will have to check outlet stores.
Thanks

 

Ahhh... gotcha. When you said you bought it from CL.... I thought it was some type of used appliance store.

You don't have to be terribly handy. I left you a video link below that shows replacing the part in your compressor in case you'd like to give it a try. If the fridge is not working.... then you couldn't hurt anything by at least checking out the compressor. There are several videos there done by professionals that explain the compressor system and testing.

Even if you just watch the videos.... it's pretty interesting.
The starting relay runs about 10.00 for your unit.

A You Tube video link


Pete

 

Okay, if that's all it needs, I can do that.
But I do I know if it's the starter relay or something else?
Also, is the part available locally?
thanks

 

Until you remove the part you don't know if that's the problem. Your condensor fan under the fridge is running which means the compressor has power. It it's not the relay then the compressor is defective.

That part should be available from any appliance parts place.

 

Okay, this is what looks there...
It doesn't have a relay box to pull like Youtube video shows, just some wires directly on the prongs.
The connections look solid.
I took the brown thing out.
It has 3 prongs and 4th is short one.
Ohm meter has 1.8 ohms between 1 and 3 and 2 and 3.
Around 8 ohms between 1 and 2.

On the compressor prongs, it's around 6 ohms between 1 and 2 and around 10 ohms between 1 or 2 and the neutral on the top.
What could be bad?

 

Ahhh..... I see you have a voltmeter. Can you check for 120vac on the orange to black or white to black ?

 

Okay that's the problem.
There is no volt between black and orange neither between black and white.
Well it goes to .2 volts when I have the knobs to coldest for both freezer and fresh food but reads 0 otherwise.
I made sure the multi meter works as it reads 125.4 volts directly on the wall outlet.

I suppose orange and white are both positive so I should not test that.
So what's the diagnosis?
Motherboard?

 

Yes....a board problem.

In the link below....part 801 is the control board. If you can solder..... pull out the board and look for bad connections on the back. They should be black. You should be able to resolder them.


Sears parts direct/GE-Refrigerator-Parts/Model-GSS25JEMCBB

 

Pete,
Here is to you for your knowledge and time -->
Really appreciate the help.

I am very handy with a soldering iron as I repair/upgrade speaker crossovers and that's what I put to test here.
I took the board out and saw one connection that was slightly black and it was a cold solder.
I can see the solder around the leg has come loose.
That was a leg of the black box with DC / AC voltage on the front.

Here is a picture before:


and after I soldered that leg.


After I put the mother board back in, I checked voltage between black and orange and it was 124.5 and it was fluctuating from 60 to 35 volts between black and white.
Put the cables in and powered up.
Compressor kicked in.
It's been almost an hour and the freezer is pretty cold but the fresh food side is not much colder than room temperature.
May be the freezer side needs to get down to freezing before the fresh food side starts to cool down?
Will see how it goes.
Thanks again.

 

Wow... that is awesome. Nice job You said you weren't handy.

Since I rent pro audio equipment I know exactly what you do. If you have a problem in the future or if you feeling like being pro-active...... resolder all the relay connections and pc board connectors. All heavier draw items.... compressor, fans, defrost heater, etc. have a relay to operate them.

You've got the compressor running again which was the key problem. There is a fan that moves the air from the freezer to the fridge. You'll need to make sure that's running. That gets its power off the same board as the compressor.

Keep me posted.



Pete

 

Pete,
I'm handy in electronics but not electrical thingy so the hesitation.
Glad the problem was in the electronics section and not mechanical.

The fan on the top corner of fresh food side is blowing air and it's cooling fine.
It was just taking long time cooling the freezer section first before that cold air started flowing to the fresh food section.
Freezer is not fully frozen yet but it's already very cold.
It's been only few hours so looks like it has to run little longer for it to reach the proper temperature.
I almost went to buy another fridge today.
I'd have been out $800 for a scratch n dent instead only lost around $50 in food waste.
Even with Denver's cold weather, most food inside the fridge was not salvageable.
Hopefully, it'll hold up for a while.