Dryer Timer Questions

I have a Whirlpool dryer model WED5200AQ0. The timer is not advancing. I am pretty sure the timer motor is bad but want to confirm before I buy a replacement. I tested the timer motor using a multimeter. I turned the timer dial to a normal timed dry setting and touched one meter lead to each of the terminals going to the timer motor. I am including a picture of what the meter reading was. Can someone confirm that this does indicate that the timer morptor is bad?

 

Welcome to the forums.

You have your meter set for resistance on the Rx1 ohms scale. It's showing the motor has continuity.

If the timer isn't advancing....... the entire unit gets replaced..... not just the timer motor.

Your model number doesn't appear to be correct. The closest timer match I could find based on the 5200 series is 8299778.

 

Thank you for your quick response! I'm sorry for the wrong model #. The correct model # is WED5200VQ0.

I understand about replacing the entire time - not just the motor. I just want to try to be sure that the timer is what I need before I spend the money on one.

The timer doesn't advance no matter what I set it to and it blows only cold air. Is there anything else that could be the cause besides the timer? I have verified that the timer is getting power and that the heating element is fine. Is there another way that I should test the timer?

 

The part number for that timer is 3979617.

Have you checked for 240vac inside the dryer ?
The heating element needs to 240v to operate and some timer motors also run on 240vac.

 

I installed a new timer, but unfortunately, it didn't fix the problem. I checked the thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat. They both seem to be okay.

Are there any other things that might cause the timer to not advance and the dryer to not blow hot air?

 

I might be narrowing in on the problem. I tested the outlet. When I put the meter leads on A and B in my photo, I get nothing. If I put the leads on A and C, I get 123 volts. If I put the leads on B and C, I get 123 volts.

Shouldn't I be getting 220 when I touch A and B? If so, what would be causing me not to?

 

I've been doing some reading and apparently I am supposed to be getting 240v reading when I test across A and B. The problem is that I am not. I have lived in this house for 2 years, so this is a new problem. The dryer has worked fine previously, which means it shouldn't be an issue with the outlet having been wired incorrectly, right? Everything I am reading for further troubleshooting says to check the breaker. We do not have breakers but rather a fuse box. One fuse should be controlling the dryer, right? If so, the fuse is okay because I do have power to the dryer.

 

I hope you had the dryer unplugged when taking that resistance measurement. BTW, the meter is on the x1K scale, not the Rx1. Seems you have an electrical problem. There should be two fuses for the dryer as each 120 volt leg should be fused. You should have an electrician check the dryer power feed. If your missing the L-2 leg, the dryer won't heat and the timer will not advance as this dryer has a 240vac timer motor.

 

you have fuses than there are 2 fuses for the dryer. Should be on a large block that pulls out. Check continuity through fuse. your meter should have a sound when leads are put together. Can't see your meter all that well but should be in same section your dial is.

 

Got it working. I found a blown fuse. Hopefully this will help others facing the same issue in the future.

 

I had mentioned to you before you replaced the timer to check for 240vac.
When servicing a 240vac appliance that is the first thing you check.

Glad you got it fixed

 

I think you should check out the inside of that dryer receptacle or have an electrician look at it. The voltage readings you were getting were not normal and a blown fuse would not account for them either. You may have a partial short which could have caused the blown fuse and the voltage readings you were getting.

 

Thank you fairbank.... it's strange....I was re-reading this post earlier and just before you posted your previous reply something clicked. You are correct. The readings on that receptacle showed either a short..... which I doubt or there may be something else connected on that same circuit.

With just a blown fuse.... you should have measured:
123 vac from one leg to ground
0 vac from one leg to ground
0 vac from A to B or hot leg to hot leg.

This issue is a cause for concern and should be checked out further.
Just out of curiosity.... what size was the fuse you replaced ?

 

The fuse was 30 amps. We are renting this house while we were selling ours, so I will let the landlord know about the questionable voltage. I thought it strange that I was getting two 110 (higher at 123 actually) but not the 220. What I do know though is that the fuse being replaced fixed the problem.

PJmax, your post about 220 volts is definitely what got me on the right track to identify the problem. I thank you!

 

You are welcome.

You're renting so it will become the landlords responsibility. The only reason I commented on and added to fairbanks reply is we really don't know why the fuse blew. Rarely does an electric dryer blow a fuse and if it does...... it's because the heating element shorted out. The heating elements don't fix themselves so yours isn't shorted.