Kenmore washing machine eating belts (model 110.82370120)


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Old 01-04-14, 09:37 AM
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Kenmore washing machine eating belts (model 110.82370120)

I've just ordered the 3rd belt for this machine in a year.

The machine will burn up the belt when it switches to the spin cycle.

Is there something I can do to fix this other than changing the belt every few months?

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-06-14, 06:49 AM
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Hey guys. Any feedback on this? If I need to buy a new machine it would be good to know ASAP.
 
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Old 01-06-14, 10:31 AM
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Which method are you using to get the belt over the clutch shaft? Lowering the shaft independently, or lowering the transmission? If lowering the transmission are you re-tightening the bolts with washer standing upright? With washer in spin mode, are you able to freely rotate the belt causing the basket to spin or is it hard to do (binding). If it's binding, you may have a bearing problem. If your lowering the transmission for belt replacement, are you checking that you don't lose the ball that holds the T-bearing?
 
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Old 01-06-14, 01:02 PM
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I haven't worked on one of those in many years so not much help from here. Usually tub rust out and starts leaking after repair.
 
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Old 01-07-14, 12:41 AM
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Belts shredding is usually caused by bent or misaligned pulleys.
 
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Old 01-07-14, 07:30 AM
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He said they were burning up, not shredding. Same pulleys are used and with same direction of rotation for both spin and agitation but belt only burns up in spin.
 
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Old 01-11-14, 08:57 AM
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Looks like we stopped the machine faster this time because when I turned it over to replace the belt the old one wasn't totally burnt through yet. We stopped it as soon as we smelled the telltale burning rubber smell.

fairbank56: Can you explain the different between lowering the transmission and lowering the clutch shaft? I think I'm lowering the transmission, but have never heard of lowering the clutch shaft before.

If I try to turn the belt by hand it's not terribly difficult, but it does not keep moving at all under its own momentum. The tub does not spin when I turn the belt by hand. I believe that's because the clutch will only engage when the power is turned on. Does that sound right? With the machine plugged in, the tub seems to be spinning now.
 

Last edited by alwayssummer; 01-11-14 at 09:09 AM. Reason: More details...
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Old 01-11-14, 10:22 AM
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To operate spin manually, pull the spin solenoid plunger upwards by hand and hold it while rotating the main drive pulley. Make sure you rotate in the same direction as it normally goes or you could rotate the pump pulley off it's shaft.

The problem with lowering the gearcase to gain clearance above the clutch shaft is that 1) you are exercizing the seals in the basket drive in a direction that doesn't occur in normal operation. This can lead to leaks after the machine is put back in operation. 2) the ball bearing that keeps the agitator shaft T-bearing in place can fall out without you realizing it 3) you must re-tighten the transmission mounting bolts when machine is in upright position to make sure it's centered properly.

The better way is to just lower the clutch shaft. To do this, you pull the spin cam bar out of the shaft so that it can be lowered. You will have to swing the motor all the way to the left so that the cam bar has clearance. You may also have to push up on the clutch shaft to slide the cam bar out/in through the slot in the clutch shaft. This will be against brake spring pressure but a large pair of channel locks does the job just fine. Place one jaw on the edge of the transmission housing and the other under the hole that the clutch shaft moves up and down in. Place a small socket (small enough to go into the hole) between the channel locks jaw and the hole. There's a hole in the spin cam bar that you can stick a screwdriver in to facilitate pushing the bar out and back in again. Squeeze the channel locks handle to raise the clutch shaft and push the cam bar out. Make sure the solenoid plunger is up. It sounds complicated but once you do it, it's easy. I can change one of these belts in 15 minutes. I don't know why so many techs make a big deal out of it. Take note of the position of the clutch shaft as the slot length is different on each side of the shaft and you must orient it the same way it was before pulling the cam bar. make sure the roller in the clutch shaft slot rotates freely. Clean and lubricate as necessary before putting cam bar back in.

Eric
 
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Old 02-03-14, 08:17 AM
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The washer started acting up again. When I went over the check it out I flicked the power on and it started agitating immediately, no burning of the belt. This problem is awful difficult to reproduce at will. Meanwhile, in turning by hand I noticed that it in some spots it's pretty difficult to get the thing moving. Once it gets moving it seems to turn more easily.

I also noticed that the belt seemed rather loose. How do I know how tight the belt ought to be? For my motorcycle chain I'm supposed to measure the deflection. I made a guess that it was too loose and tightened the belt some and ran through a cycle and it worked fine.
 
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Old 02-03-14, 09:10 AM
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Adjust belt tension so that you have 1/2" deflection midway between motor pulley and drive pulley.
 
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Old 02-10-14, 01:06 PM
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It had 2-3". I tightened it up. Maybe this will be the solution.
 
 

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