Whirlpool Senseon dryer- no heat

Reply

  #1  
Old 03-26-14, 05:09 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Whirlpool Senseon dryer- no heat

Hello,
I am not a wiz at these things but I try. I have checked resistance on all applicable parts. Meter shows continuity. I have about 15 ohms on heater element. I have 235 volts at the element, with leads disconnected. I have no heat. ????? This does not make sense to me. Visual inspection of the element looks OK.

Thanks
Dan
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 03-27-14, 01:52 AM
pugsl's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 8,519
Received 25 Votes on 24 Posts
senseon ??? What type appliance is it?
 
  #3  
Old 03-27-14, 04:44 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Senseon Dryer

Sorry,

Senseon eas a fancy dryer made a few years back.

Thanks
 
  #4  
Old 03-27-14, 05:00 AM
pugsl's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 8,519
Received 25 Votes on 24 Posts
Post a model # Will see if can find any info on it. Most dryer work timer through a couple of thermostats, a heater. All thermostats and heater are closed, (no open circuits) Whirlpool dryers usual problems are hi limit thermostat or heater. With model # can tell you where to find them.
 
  #5  
Old 03-27-14, 08:44 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Pugsl,

I have the tech manual and know where all components are located. My confusion is the fact that with the dryer on and running with High heat I connect the meter to the leads that go into the element (with the element disconnected) an I have 235V. The heating element shows resistance and has no visual breaks or burnt spots. If the components (fuse,thermister,relay,and high limit) are allowing 235V to get to the element, shouldn't the element be working?

Thanks again
 
  #6  
Old 03-27-14, 11:36 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 53,634
Received 419 Votes on 392 Posts
You're telling us that you have 235v to the wiring for the element with the element disconnected.

Reconnect the element. What do you measure now ? Probably nowhere near 235v volts.
Now you will have to work backwards and find out where the 235v is getting lost.

Cycling thermostats have the job of switching a lot of current to the element. Every time they open the contacts pit/burn a little more. They could pass enough current to allow your meter to read as the meter presents no load. Once you add load to the stat the contacts won't allow it to flow.

With the dryer running and element reconnected.... take your meter set to just over 235vac and check across each thermostat. You should see no voltage. If you do.... that stat is defective.

I needn't remind you to work carefully to prevent shock injury.
 
  #7  
Old 03-27-14, 05:46 PM
pugsl's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 8,519
Received 25 Votes on 24 Posts
I always check dryer thermostats and heater elements with meter set to beep when leads are shorted.unplug dryer first go across heater leads and each thermostat. All should make noise. No noise bad.
 
  #8  
Old 03-29-14, 06:29 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 264
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
He has already done that. Those are just static tests using the very low voltage and current of your multimeter. In actual operation, there is 20-25 amps of current going through those devices. Faulty contacts can break down under those conditions yet components can read fine with static meter continuity check. To find the problem, you must use voltage drop test method with dryer operating under load (heating). Most likely problem is control board relay or motor switch but can't really tell much without dryer model number. Senseon is just a name. There's more than just one model number for Senseon.
 
  #9  
Old 03-31-14, 08:18 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
PJ,

I have 236V at the element, with the element connected. Time for a new element?

Thanks Dan
 
  #10  
Old 03-31-14, 10:32 AM
pugsl's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 8,519
Received 25 Votes on 24 Posts
Yes should read 0 volts across the terminals if good. Fairbanks way is the best way to check but I am a coward and just use the ohm meter.
 
  #11  
Old 03-31-14, 10:42 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 53,634
Received 419 Votes on 392 Posts
You can't have 15 ohms of resistance across the heater terminals and 236 vac without getting heat.
I'm assuming the element was disconnected when you checked the resistance back in post 1.
It sounds like a connection issue at the element.
 
  #12  
Old 03-31-14, 11:58 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Don't know how there could be a connection issue. I scrapped fittings with sand paper. Could the fittings be bad inside the little ceramic thing that holds the connectors (I could believe this one)? If so why do I have resistance and not and 0pen circuit?


Dan
 
  #13  
Old 03-31-14, 02:23 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
New DATA

I DO have 235v volts but only .1mA at the element with load. Also .1mA at thermal fuse and thermister?

Dan
 
  #14  
Old 03-31-14, 02:39 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 53,634
Received 419 Votes on 392 Posts
As long as the element isn't heating you won't see any major current flow.

I can't understand how you can measure 15 ohms and not get heat.... I'm baffled. I hate to say replace the element without being sure it's bad.
 
  #15  
Old 03-31-14, 03:56 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 264
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yes should read 0 volts across the terminals if good.
Incorrect. You should read 240 volts across heater terminals regardless if heater is good or open.

You may have a break in the heater coil that only opens when powered. High current causing it to open. With reading 240 volts across heater terminals but no heat, heater coil is the problem.
 
  #16  
Old 03-31-14, 03:59 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I'm going to order an element.. then if its not that I'll assume its the control panel...new dryer then.

Thanks.. I'll post the results

Dan
 
  #17  
Old 04-02-14, 09:19 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Mystery Solved

Long story short...I was showing element to a coworker and it snapped at a place that was no longer metal but charred wire.... thus enough contact for resistance? But, nothing to carry a current.

Thanks to all....
Dan
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: