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GE Profile Double Wall Oven JT965 - both bake and broil elements stopped working

GE Profile Double Wall Oven JT965 - both bake and broil elements stopped working

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  #1  
Old 06-10-14, 07:07 PM
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GE Profile Double Wall Oven JT965 - both bake and broil elements stopped working

I have a GE Profile JT965 Double Wall Oven (about 7 years old). While cooking some steaks at extremely high heat (Baking at 500 degrees) we accidentally left the oven on for about an hour after removing the steaks.

We shut the oven off after we realized it was still on.

The next day, when we try to use the oven, neither the bake or broil elements are heating up. When we press 'Bake' the oven display reads "100" and you can hear the relays click on, and the fan spin up. But no heating occurs. Same for the 'Broil' setting - nothing heats up.

It seems unlikely that both heating elements would fail at the same time. In poking around on these forums and some others, it seems like anything from safety switches to control boards could theoretically be at fault. Any idea what might cause this or where to start? I am fairly handy, and comfortable around electronics and multimeters, so I am fine to tinker around with it given some possible places to start.

Thanks!

--Steve
 
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Old 06-10-14, 07:13 PM
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Can you post the full model number for me.
 
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Old 06-10-14, 07:19 PM
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Hey pjMax, thanks for the quick reply!

Just checked inside the microwave door and here's what the label said:
JT965S0K4SS, manufactured Sept. 2006.

Can't tell if it's a 'zero' or the letter 'O' before the 'K', but 'zero' is my best guess.

Thanks!

--Steve
 
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Old 06-10-14, 07:46 PM
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This is the closest match I could come up with...... JT965SK4SS

Your problem can be caused by one of three things. You lost 240vac to the unit. You may have lost one leg so that you only have 120vac there. The fans and controls run on 120vac.

Two.... the control board is defective. If that is the case then the board would show damage... like burned foils on the back especially near the relays.

Third.... there are two high heat safety stats in the top of the oven. In the link I'm leaving you they are pictorial part 158 and 159. The diagram can be expanded to get a detailed view. I'm not familiar with your unit so I can't tell you exactly how to get to them.

You'd need to turn power off to unit and check them for continuity. They should show a short. If not they are bad.

05-Body with Microwave Support parts for GE JT965SK4SS - Appliance Parts Pros
 
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Old 06-10-14, 08:00 PM
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Hey many thanks - I will pull the sucker out of the cabinet in the next day or two and will get back with you as I work through the options you've laid out. Thanks again!
 
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Old 06-10-14, 08:08 PM
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You're welcome..... I'll be waiting for your return.
 
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Old 06-11-14, 03:14 AM
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Before you pull it out click your breakers a couple of times. One leg may have tripped.
 
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Old 06-21-14, 06:08 PM
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Hi guys,

Sorry for the delay - when it rains it pours: spent the last several days dealing with a failed hot water heater, which took precedence over the oven as the wife does not like cold showers! Got that thing working again, so now it's back to the oven. I flipped the breaker a couple of times; still no heating on the elements. Pulled the oven from the wall, but have *not* yet confirmed 240 at the unit with the multimeter. Could do that to make absolutely sure if you recommend it.

Have pulled the unit from the wall at this point and pulled the trim to get at the high heat safety stats. I am pretty sure I found them - they're the two components with the pairs of pink wire connectors, right (see picture)? I was hoping it was one of these since they're cheap and easy to replace, but no dice. Ohmmeter across both of them went to 0, so they appear to be working properly...

Finally, I pulled the sides of the electrical connection area, and examined the control board. Top looked more or less okay, but I'm glad I re-read you post more carefully since you mentioned looking specifically at the back. When I disconnected all the jumper wires and turned it over, there appears to be a component with burned solder joints, but take a look at the picture and make sure my judgment is right. Looking at the attached picture of the top of the control board, the component with the apparently-burned solder joints is one of those reddish-brown things on the lower left - is that the relay you were referring to?

So... that's where I am at this point - what's your thinking? Am I right about the bad component do you think? Is it worth checking for 240V at the oven?

Thanks again for all the help!

--Steve
 
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Old 06-21-14, 10:08 PM
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That's pretty much what I was expecting you to find. That is a major problem on those control boards..... poor solder quality combined with high current draw causes the relays and the pc board foils to burn. It could be that exact burned spot causing the problem or another bad solder connection in any of the areas I outlines in red.

I would still check for 240vac inside the unit.

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  #10  
Old 06-22-14, 12:26 PM
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Hey PJmax,

Turned the breaker back on in the basement; first time working with 240V. Inside the oven, there are three heavy wires coming in from the wall - Red, White, Black, ground. Multimeter gave the following which look correct to me:

Red/Black - 247V
White/Black - 123V
Red/White - 122V

Seems that this rules out the 240V cause, right? (also rules out bad breakers and assorted electrical stuff in the basement it would seem).

So back to the board? I am handy with a soldering iron, so I had hoped to just replace the bad component on the board - it sounded like however, that you are saying that the physical indication of the burn does not necessarily mean that's the cause, and that in fact could be any number of other areas on the board.

Next steps...at this point would you recommend trying to pull that component out and replace it on the board, or just shell out the $200 for the control board? Any other possible causes you could think of that I haven't tried yet before I start spending $$ ?

And most importantly - thanks again for your continued advice!

--Steve
 
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Old 06-22-14, 12:33 PM
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Technically I can only recommend replacing the board but I will usually resolder all the heavy contacts, especially in the areas I highlighted. It usually depends on how much downtime the owner can allow me.

I was not able to locate the wiring diagram for your stove. It should be posted somewhere on the range. Possibly in a rolled up document or pasted to the rear cover. If you could shoot that and send it to me that would be a tremendous help. I could tell you if that/those two red relays are your problem.

I'll send you a Private message with my email address.
 
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Old 06-22-14, 03:05 PM
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yeah, all that stuff was taped inside of the unit as I pulled it apart. Received your private note; will shoot you some pictures of that stuff here in a few minutes... thanks!!

--Steve
 
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Old 06-22-14, 03:45 PM
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Okay - just fired it off to your email account - let me know if you don't get 'em.

--Steve
 
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Old 06-22-14, 04:04 PM
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The pictures are excellent. It will take me a little while to look them over and figure out the next step. Should be within the hour.

I'm looking at the pics and I see gas sensor in one picture. There is no gas in this appliance...correct ?
 
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Old 06-22-14, 06:10 PM
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Thanks again. Yeah, this guy's electric - no gas.

--Steve
 
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Old 06-22-14, 07:26 PM
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K101 - broil element cycle
K102 - bake element cycle
K103 - convection cycle
K104 - L2 power to elements
Relay K104 is responsible for all element power. That's the one where the solder is burned. You may be able to remove the solder, clean the relay pins and then resolder it. You can use isopropyl alcohol, a q-tip and an old toothbrush to clean up the foils.

I see you resoldered K101 + K102
Make sure the terminals where the wires slide on are well soldered as well as anyplace where you see the foils doubled up.

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  #17  
Old 06-22-14, 07:47 PM
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Thanks for your note back - I have *not* re-soldered anything yet at K101 or K102 (that's the original solder job on the board), but will try your recommendation for re-soldering, starting with K104, since it controls all power, and the elements (bake and broil) both stopped working at the same time...

One last question for you before I start re-soldering - do you think there's a chance the relay component at K104 itself has failed? I might try to order one just in case since that's got to be cheaper than a board.

And again...thanks so much!!

--Steve
 
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Old 06-22-14, 07:53 PM
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Yes....K104 may have failed.

Hmmmm.... for some reason the connections at 101 and 102 looked very shiny and new.

875B-1CC-F-S-12VDC Song Chuan | Mouser
 
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Old 06-23-14, 03:59 AM
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Awesome - thanks for the link to the part! Planning to order that today, and in parallel try re-soldering the one that's there tonight after work. Will keep you posted!
 
  #20  
Old 06-28-14, 02:15 PM
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Fixed! I didn't even need the new relay - once I started de-soldering the old one, i just figured I would clean the foils and try some fresh solder. Worked like a charm. Everything is put back together, oven is back in the wall, and wife is happy!

Can't thank you enough for your help and investment of personal time in helping me diagnose and repair the problem - could not have done it without you.

--Steve
 
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Old 06-28-14, 02:19 PM
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You are very welcome.

Excellent pictures on your part helped the process and judging by the page views on this thread it's getting a lot of attention.
 
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Old 04-27-16, 07:18 PM
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Hello PJ Max,

I was wondering if you might know if the little red relays can be purchased separately or if I will need to buy a new PC board. My oven did the same thing that was described in this thread. I reflowed the solder and also noticed that one of the four legs that solder into the board on my broiler relay was completely disintegrated. I soldered it the best I could and it worked for about six months. Now I am having the same problem and wonder if I can simply purchase the relays separately.

I have the same model oven.

Many thanks.
 
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Old 04-27-16, 07:42 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Yup... if it isn't the solder.... the relays burn up.

I don't have the original pictures from when I replied here so I can't see the relay numbers clearly. If you can take a picture of all the numbers and post it here... I'll tell you where to get them from.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/electrical-ac-dc/534445-how-insert-pictures.html


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  #24  
Old 04-27-16, 07:53 PM
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Here is a clear picture of the relays. Thank you!
 
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Old 04-27-16, 08:23 PM
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Thanks for the pictures. There are several places to get them from. I buy all my parts like that from Mouser electronics. The relay is around $3. Buy several. No minimum order with them.

875B-1CC-F-S-12VDC Song Chuan | Mouser

I just re-read the thread.... the relay part number was posted back in post 18.
 
  #26  
Old 04-27-16, 08:33 PM
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Awesome. Thank you very much. I noticed the number on mine is 875B-1C-F-S U02 which is similar to the one in your link. Are they compatible? Also - I want to replace the Baking relay too (the one on the top in the photo) It has a different number, but looks identical. Is the relay you linked also compatible for the one in the top on my photo? Thank you again so very much.
 
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Old 04-27-16, 09:06 PM
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The relays are different. The one on top in the picture is only a single pole single throw relay. (SPST) It will be four pins.

The other ones are single pole double throw. (SPDT) and are five pins.

The additional C in the part number denotes what the contact material is.

I'm looking for a replacement for the top relay. Mouser doesn't show a direct replacement.

Actually..... you can use the same relay for both but you will need to cut the 5th pin off for the top relay. Same specs. Same size. One additional pin.
 
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Old 04-28-16, 06:10 PM
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Again, awesome. Thanks for your knowledge and know how. Greatly appreciated. I ordered a couple of the relays.
 
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Old 04-28-16, 06:22 PM
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No problem. Let me know how you make out.
 
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Old 09-18-16, 12:45 PM
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This is a self contained thread for this member. It's an excellent guide to follow in doing your own repair on a GE oven.

If you have further questions...... please feel free to start a new thread and reference this one.
 
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