This is a front load washing machine. The drain pump stops when there is still about a gallon of water in the tub. I removed the pump and cleaned it but it wasn't dirty and it turns ok. I removed the rubber boot to the pump inlet looking for obstructions but there weren't any. I replaced the thermistor water sensor at the front bottom of the tub but that didn't help. Is the water level sensor used to determine when the tub is empty and is it out of calibration? I found a service manual for a Maytag MAH9700AW that is almost like this machine but not exactly.

 

The maytag machine is totally different, Same basic operation but that is all. Your washer is built by samsung. The water drain is controlled by control board. Not positive but pressure switch only controls fill but never had that question before.
Does the washer go into spin? If not draining usually won't spin. Have you filled the washer and just put it into a drain and spin. If yours has a spin button on front turn washer on any cycle and hold spin button until display changes, will change to something like 11 to 14 minutes, Push start and will drain and spin. If not usually pump is bad. If spin on dial just put it into spin that way. Let us know what is happening.

 

It goes through all the cycles, including spin, without any error codes. It must think all the water is out and that's why it turns off the pump and starts the spin cycle. I've been watching it using the Quick Wash Cycle without any clothes. If I connect the pump directly to line voltage, it works fine and doesn't overheat or stop till I disconnect it.

 

Have never had your problem or heard of it. Maybe one of the other guys will know about it.

 

TulsaGene, I have the same problem here. Did you ever get a resolution?

 

Hi, I have the same problem I'd check the drain hose and pump and did a test to the pump directly and it worked fine so I check the Water pressure control and it worked fine so I found out that the main control panel has some burned marks where I can see thru the epoxy and so I did put a temporary switch to provide neutral to my pump because the power it's already there so with my temporary switch I can pump the water out and be able to use the washer till I find a good used control board with a good price.

 

I'm having the same problem. Did you replace your control board and did that resolve your problem? They aren't cheap so I am trying to figure out how best to make sure my control board has a problem before I buy a new one.

I confirmed that the pump does receive 120v. Similar to the situation described in the thread below, my washer runs for most of the cycle (including pumping) but then gets the "nd" error code with 10 to 15 minutes remaining on the cycle.

 

Original OP has not replied back. Google part # and see if in stock anyplace. Only buy from someplace that has 1 year return.
34001499
Also try googling this
control board rebuilders

 

Attached are some pictures of the control board. It looks (?) like there may be some burn marks on it. Do you agree these look like burns and do you think this may be the cause of the issue described?

 

The one in middle of picture near top of resistor looks like one, can't see the other one good enough to tell.

 

Hello! I have this problem as well. My washer is also an Amana NFW7200TW, and the onset of the problem was gradual: first it was occasional, and I could "fix" it by manually draining the machine, and then having it just go through the spin cycle. This became more frequent, and I examined the hose for obstructions--nothing. Friday I received a replacement control panel from Repair Clinic, and last night the load failed to drain again. Plausibly I will have to replace the drain pump as well? The machine has performed extremely excellent service over the last 9 years.

 

Been a while since worked on one but I have seen the impeller break loose from pump shaft. Can you hear the pump run?

 

I don't know. It sounds like it doesn't turn on at all.

How would I tell?

 

The pump motor would be the only one running during drain.

 

As far as I can tell, the machine is silent just before I get the ND code. That's why it's hard to be sure, but last night it just got really quiet and I surmise the pump was not activated at all.

Before I replaced the control panel, I'd inferred the pump was not being turned on, but perhaps it was.

 

You can hear the pump run. Should be able to get pump to run through test mode. Sorry bI have frgotten how to do it but it is a easy process.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBT273vncp4

Found this video which shows how to do that. Will do ASAP

(Tried a couple of times to imbed. But the link should work)

 

Children's spirograph embedded in the pump housing.

Still need to test the pump, though

 

All right, tested it with a multimeter and got 15 ohms so I think it's all right. Let's see if the thing will run a load now.

 

Good job.

Here's some info for future image attachment....
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html

 

Now it's been stuck on minute 35 for about 12 minutes at least; keeps making a quiet hrrrmmmm noise as if it's trying to switch on something.

The water supply is on. I'm guessing now I've failed to attach the drain pump correctly. The suspense is killing me.

UPDATE: there's a smell of burning and the machine just shut off with an ND code. Just pulled out the machine and drained (all over the floor, as always); the pump is hot.

 

Sounds like the pump is jammed, Should be able to reach in it and turn impeller.

 

Thanks for the response. I took the pump out a while ago, cleaned it and tested it with the multimeter. It has some resistance, but I don't know of a certainty that it's working. The video explained how the pump might be faulty--impeller stuck, or broken loose from shaft, or wedged--and, of course, a bad circuit. But I get the impression the control board is "trying" to turn it on, and the pump's not turning on. Last night, in exasperation, I ordered a new one ($18 on Amazon). Some smarter guys than me know how to test the control board to make sure it sends adequate voltage to the pump at minute 35., but that's another possible problem.

 

Yesterday, the new pump arrived and I installed it--bear in mind I'm not very bright, but this was pretty self-explanatory. Attached to its housing, plugged in the drainage hoses, connected it to the power supply, and put everything back. The washer successfully completed a load and I am jubilant! My guess is that repeated soakings corroded the motor, which is normally very well-protected from moisture.

 

Thanks for the update, Glad it worked for you.