GE Profile Dryer Won't Start

Model Number: DPSE810EG4WT Brand: GE Age: 5 - 10 years

Wife pushed the start button the other day heard a thud and nothing moved. You can turn the drum and turn the motor axle freely by hand.

I have the dryer apart. I have tested for continuity on all thermistors.

Outlet Control and Inlet Control thermistors both read open at room temp.

If I bypass them the motor still will not start. The only thing that happens when you depress the Start button is you hear a click in the control panel and then about 10 seconds later another click in the control panel. Motor does not hum.

Any suggestions most appreciated

 

First make sure you have 240vac right at the connection block at the back of the dryer. Parts of the machine run on 120v which could be the cause of the noise.

 

Dryer apart did you check the belt? If belt broken or off dryer will not run. Belt switch is on left side between motor and side . Should be closed when idler loaded.

 

thanks

juice is good on the block, also LEDs light on the panel and got 120 to the motor.

I'd like to eliminate the motor but not sure which posts to measure with an v/ohm meter.

The motor is a we17m22 120v 60hz

 

thanks

that was the first thing I checked. belt is fine, drum is out of the dryer.

The problem is the motor will not turn when the Start button is pushed, but can easily be turned by hand.

 

Did you actually measure 240vac on the block ?

 

Should be a wiring diagram in console. Look for a thermo fuse. Can not remember where it is mounted on yours. Follow wires by color to find it. If open it's bad.

 

GE does not use thermal fuses in their dryers. Can't find tech sheet or service manual for this one. Can help further if you provide copy of tech sheet which should be inside dryer cabinet.

 

Thanks for the responses.

schematic:

 

Can you provide a clearer high resolution image? Very difficult to read. You said you had 120vac at motor. How did you measure that? After pressing start button, you should have 120vac across motor red and brown/yellow wires. If you have 120vac there and motor does not make any noise, then it's bad. If you don't have 120vac there check between belt switch purple wire and motor brown/yellow wire. If not there, then probably a bad control board, assuming door switch is good.

You also said drum is out of dryer. With drum and belt removed, belt switch (idler switch) must be activated manually or bypassed in order for motor to run.

 

Measure the voltage between the orange and purple wire on the J5 connector and with the dryer plugged in. Should be about 120vac. Then press the start button. Should drop to about 0vac.


There is also a diagnostic routine that can be tried.

DPSE810 SERVICE MODE: Unplug the machine and then restore power. Within 30 seconds of power up press and hold the START button and slowly turn the knob 180* degrees taking at least two seconds. Turning the cycle knob in test mode advances the tests. Pressing the start button starts executing the tests.

Test 1
Press Start – displays the heat source = Electric: 1E Gas: 1G
Press Start – displays model jumper = Electric A: 14 / Gas A: 7

Test 2
Press Start – Software version (21 or higher)
Press Start – EEPROM version (07 or higher)

Test 3 – EEPROM CRC check.
Press Start – EP=Pass / Er=Fail

Test 4 – User interface test
Press Start – displays all segments of SSD + 3 LED’s. Turn any knob. The knob position is displayed on the SSD. Lowest value 0 and advances by 1 for each position. Cycle selector should display 0 – 15 clockwise. Option/Dryness and Temperature selector should display 0 – 11.

Press Start to get into test selection mode and advance to next test

Test 5 Error code test
Press Start – Displays error codes. Pressing start while an error code is logged will clear the error code and display the next error code. If there is no error display E0.

Thanks Rick - ApplianceTech

 

Put a new image on photobucket in place of image in post below. Let me know if it's still blurry.

I measured 120vac from the detached motor wiring harness, (black or red I don't remember), to ground. Just making sure 120vac was getting that far but I'll reattach harness and measure red to brn/yel and others as suggested.

Yes, idler switch depressed.

thanks

 

Nice picture.... thanks.

Have you checked the limiter I circled. It's in the L1 to idler switch to motor line ?

 

Yes, I have 240vac at the block.

Measured btw orange and purple on J5....... 120vac even after pressing Start. I guess that's why I was also getting 0vac across red and brown/yellow on the motor. K1 always open. Checked High-Limit, has continuity.

So bad K1?

 

Either bad relay, bad solder joint at relay pins, bad circuitry that controls relay or bad circuit trace on board between relay pins and connector receptacle. Need to examine circuit board.

 

Thanks all for the assist.

Got a new board off eBay, popped it in, runs like a champ!

 

That's good news. Thanks for letting us know what the fix was.

Now on a rainy day you can dissect the old control board and check it out.