10 year old Washer of GE Spacemaker stackable unit not working

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  #1  
Old 08-20-14, 09:18 PM
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10 year old Washer of GE Spacemaker stackable unit not working

GE Spacemaker stackable washer/dryer combo unit.

Dryer works fine.

Washer won't turn on, no struggling motor, no partial joy, nothing. Nothing different in previous load, just attempted to turn it on one day and ... nothing (like a starter that won't even crank

Turned the breaker off then back on, nada

Any ideas?
 
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Old 08-20-14, 09:24 PM
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Moved your thread here from the electrical forums.

Can you post the model number of your unit for us.
 
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Old 08-21-14, 05:22 AM
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WSM2700DAWWW

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 08-21-14, 07:47 AM
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Won't even fill? Check motor connector and connections at motor thermal overload switch. Check for 120vac to ground at motor M1 terminal and M3 terminal. Power hot side for washer goes directly to motor M1 terminal, through thermal overload switch and then back out through M3 terminal to timer and water inlet valves.
 
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Old 08-21-14, 09:10 AM
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Won't fill, won't even squeak, just continued silence when I push the "Start/On" button
 
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Old 08-21-14, 10:17 AM
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Push what button? You pull the timer knob out to turn the washer on.
 
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Old 08-21-14, 11:32 AM
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correct, my goof, the button get's PULLED out to start the wash. I tried on all was cycles, same thing
 
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Old 08-22-14, 08:02 AM
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The main power cable connection, where it plugs into the back of the machine, was a little loose, the jacket/harness had slipped back beyond the clamp. However on the inside (picture shown) all the cables were tight when I tugged on them by hand. (The black wire looks like it could be loose but it isn't)

There are 4 wires coming out of the main power cable. Red, white, black, and green and are connected as shown. Again the dryer works, just not the washer.

Not sure what M1 and M3 is, nothing's labeled or maybe I'm looking in the wrong area.

Anything else to check?
 
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Old 08-22-14, 08:54 AM
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Check motor connector and connections at motor thermal overload switch. Check for 120vac to ground at motor M1 terminal and M3 terminal. Power hot side for washer goes directly to motor M1 terminal, through thermal overload switch and then back out through M3 terminal to timer and water inlet valves.
 
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Old 08-22-14, 11:34 AM
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Is there any sort of diagram online that explains these parts? :-o
I've done some car electrical before but am not familiar with these terms.
 
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Old 08-22-14, 12:36 PM
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Sounds like this is way over your head but here is a link to the parts manual which includes the wiring diagram. Washer/dryer is made by Electrolux for GE.

ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/prodinfo...r/95346789.pdf
 
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Old 08-27-14, 06:20 AM
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I used an electrical tester (one red lead to power, one black lead to ground, if it lights up the circuit is live) and determined that from the power cable coming into the unit (black, white, and red wires connecting to the lower part of the black plastic piece in the back shown in the initial picture I posted) that the black and red wires lit up but not the white.

On the top portion (black, white, and two red wires) only the black lit up.

One red wire goes to a cluster to the left in the back and back up to the white block connector to the left in the front and then to the washer dial. The other red wire (on the right) goes directly to the washer dial.

Predictably the red wire coming from the back directly to the washer dial is not live. None of the clustered wires within the block at the front left are live either though.

Almost makes me wonder how it is the dryer is functioning.

So the question is (assuming the double red wires on the top of the black plastic piece in the back should be live), What is the term for that black plastic piece in the back that takes in the wires from the power cable along its' bottom side and has new wires of the corresponding colors on its' top side since I'm pretty sure something in there is dead. Also I'm unable to remove the double red wires from the top, if I could get a close up picture of this "splitter" module from all sides I could determine which tools to use and how to do the job etc. Apologies for the rambling, I hope you get the idea

... ?


Thanks
 
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Old 08-27-14, 07:37 AM
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That is the power cord terminal block. You need to remove the small access cover on the back of the machine for access to the screws that attach the wire terminals as well as the screws to remove the block. Sounds like it may be burned up where the red wires connect. I do see some slight discoloration (possible melting) in your photo from the back of the terminal block. I don't see the terminal block listed in the parts diagram. The white wire is neutral and should not have any voltage to ground on it.
 
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Old 08-27-14, 08:28 AM
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Ok problem solved, here's the sitch:

Opened up the access cover on the back of the machine. The screw on the red bottom-to-red top port was loose and there was play in the connection from the red bottom wire onto the power cord terminal block.

I couldn't tighten the screw anymore. I took it out and used a plastic comb to manually shove the red bottom wire in contact with the red top wire. I pulled the knob and heard water fill the tub so I shut it off again.

Going to get a couple washers to close the gap between the screw that won't tighten all the way and the two red cables that it needs to be in contact with each other.

Thanks for all the help, just saved a grand on a new unit. Going out drinking with the boys tomorrow in DC, join in and your tab's on me!
 
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Old 08-27-14, 08:56 AM
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Most likely you will have to replace terminal block. once loose usually burns connections or bolts so they cannot be tightened .
 
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Old 08-27-14, 11:31 AM
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Agree 100%, you should replace that terminal block. There's 20-25 amps going through that connection when the dryer is running. You must have good clean tight connection there. Otherwise, it's a fire hazard.
 
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Old 08-28-14, 06:30 AM
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I've been searching by make/model online, can't find the part ... any suggestions?
 
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Old 08-28-14, 10:57 AM
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I could not find it either but washer is made by Frigidaire and part should be in any appliance parts store. Be sure to take model # with you. Google appliance parts Arlington, VA and you will see many. Call first. Very common part can't remember if the Whirlpool one will fit but I think it is the same.
 
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