Dryer's Lamp Flicker

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  #1  
Old 09-15-14, 01:14 PM
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Dryer's Lamp Flicker

I have a one year old electric dryer. With the door of the dryer open if you tap the cabinet of the dryer the light flickers inside the dryer. Theres a tiny bulb with a filament inside and it is tight. Also grasping and jiggling the push switch for the door does NOT cause flicker.

I was concerned if it was the circuit however, tapping or jiggling the power cord or the box its plug into does not cause the light to flicker either.

Is this something I should be concerned about?
 
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Old 09-15-14, 02:44 PM
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Is there a door switch that activates the light?
 
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Old 09-15-14, 03:06 PM
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O/P wrote:
Also grasping and jiggling the push switch for the door does NOT cause flicker.
.
 
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Old 09-15-14, 03:10 PM
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Could be the bulb is going bad or the wires going into dryer The screws might not be tight. If checking wires UNPLUG FIRST.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 09-15-14 at 07:22 PM. Reason: fixed typo
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Old 09-15-14, 04:14 PM
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Could be the bulb is going bad or the wires going into dryer The screws might be tight.
Please rephrase this, it is unclear.
 
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Old 09-15-14, 07:26 PM
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I fixed my partners typo. If it's not the bulb going bad. Then it could be at the wiring at the back of the dryer where the power cord connects.

Remove the plug before opening the junction box on the back of the dryer. There are three metal studs there where the wires connect. It's a very common problem for one of those fasteners to come loose.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 03:59 AM
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I will check both of those, but are there internal splices that can be checked?

I assume the light is likely soldered into a control board or something and there is nothing serviceable.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 04:03 AM
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There are other wires inside dryer but to get to them you have to dissemble dryer. Check the easy things first (bulb and power wire)
 
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Old 09-16-14, 07:11 AM
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power cable secure. new bulb. still flicker.

The neutral connection from the dryer to the terminal block wiggled a bit. Its one of those spade type terminals. It didn't seem as secure as the two ungrounded spade connections. Im not sure how to tighten/crimp that though.....

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p.s.- not sure why you would move this thread from the wiring forum since I am asking about a possible loose joint and how to properly tighten a spade a terminal??
 
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Old 09-16-14, 07:25 AM
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Just crimp it a little with a pair of pliers. Post model# and make can help. Electric dryer should have screw on connections. Will be under a medal panel in back.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 07:29 AM
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Crimp what? The folds on the side of the connector (where the markings are in the photo) or the small piece in the center?
 
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Old 09-16-14, 07:32 AM
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The folds on the sides. Very lightly though! It doesn't take much.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 07:58 AM
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Is it a 110 or a 220 Volt dryer? I'm just wondering if there is a transformer inside somewhere.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 08:56 AM
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Its a basic 220 dryer. 4 wire cord. The dryer does use a neutral though.

What does the neutral provide in a 220 dryer? Just the light and the dial motor?

Under the neutral female connector there was a yellow and white 20 gauge wire. (The ground of course is not bonded to the neutral in the 4 wire configuration.)

The spade was loose so I tried to snug it up as described above and sure enough I broke! the connector. I used a TYCO female connector 22-18 as a replacement. Is that satisfactory or does the connector have to be a OEM part?

Hopefully I haven't ruined the dryer now! After skinning off .30 of an inch of insulation on the two wires like the connector called for, I twisted them together and crimped it down with the red portion of my crimper. Gave it a little tug, I sure hope its on there secure.... which leads me to my next question....

Is there a heavy load on that neutral connection?

BTW: After changing the connector (and possible ruining my dryer!) the light still flickers
 

Last edited by mummy; 09-16-14 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 09-16-14, 09:24 AM
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I don't think that you ruined the dryer. None of that has to do with the running of it. The flickering light problem is somewhere after the transformer. You might need a schematic to locate it.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 09:32 AM
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That's what I am asking... how is that neutral used? The heating side of it is 240 and I assume the only load on that neutral would be 6W light bulb when the door is open?

And theres a transformer for a 6W light? Im assuming the light runs on the 120 hence the neutral...
 
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Old 09-16-14, 11:03 AM
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Besides the light & maybe the panel that shows the dryer functions, I don't know what else uses juice from the transformer. You might be getting too deep into the circuitry without the proper testing equipment & schematic.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 11:20 AM
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Most electric clothes dryers made in the USA use a 120 volt motor to turn the drum, along with 120 volt timing and moisture sensing circuits. Most European made dryers use straight 220-240 volt motors and circuitry. I don't know about the Asian made machines. In my limited experience a control transformer is NOT used and if it were there would be no need for a neutral connection.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 12:23 PM
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Should I have contacted the manufacture for the exact female connector or the replacement I used OK?

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Is my dryer safe to use with this connector in place?

If that neutral connection fails, would voltage then leak to ground instead or would the circuit just not work?

How is it such a heavy load as a drum motor as Furd stated allowed to go on 20guage wire in that case?

(ie the neutral connection from the dryer to the cords terminal block is 20awg where the ungrounded conductors are I believe 12 or 10 on the same terminal block?)
 
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Old 09-16-14, 12:32 PM
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The connector you used will be fine have used them many times in dryers. Please post make and model # will help a lot to know what dryer you are working on. Everything in dryer works on 120 volts except heat circuit if in US.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 12:44 PM
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Please post make and model # will help a lot to know what dryer you are working on.
GE brand - GLDP280EDOWS

Thank you, I am concerned I damaged a 1 year old dryer with my hodge podge connector.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 01:57 PM
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As long as you crimped the connector on wire and plugged it in should be ok. Here is a diagram of dryer
GE Electric Dryer Parts | Model GLDP280ED0WS | SearsPartsDirect
under cabinet and top part 419 is where the wires should be tight. Where did you find loose connector? The next thing to check is the wires to light, will have to take front off to do this. Saw your post in other section and I have just used pliers to crimp connector no special tool needed. Have used those connectors for 30 years.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 03:36 PM
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Tapping the dryer up toward the top by the light (rather than lower on the unit where the switch is) causes the flicker. So perhaps it is the connection at the light.... however, I assume that's not going to be serviceable? Wouldn't those be soldered into a control board or something?

If that neutral connection fails on the connector I damaged and replaced would the dryer just not work or would it send its return current via the ground? And since you asked, that connector I replaced was the neutral from the dryer that connects to the terminal block.

Do you think I should even bother hunting this flicker down further??? Is it safe to use the dryer like it is.... again, it has no effect on the operation and is only seen when tapping moderately on the unit itself.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 04:17 PM
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I don't have a wiring diagram for your dryer but if the neutral connection failed the dryer might not run or light not work at all. Dryer not to hard to take apart but will sound harder than it is, if I try to tell you how to do it. It sounds like a loose connection at light usually same connectors as the one you fixed. Should not cause any problems other than light not working.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 04:47 PM
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I would forget about it unless the light stops working.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 04:59 PM
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The socket is replaceable but not serviceable. It's more likely a loose connection where it plugs into the nylon connector.

The following video shows you what needs to be done.
Replacing GE lamp socket assembly
 
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Old 09-16-14, 05:17 PM
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PJ- That video is spot on, thank you. Its even brand specific for my dryer. I think I am just going to leave it until it fails and keep that video in my backpocket sort to speak.

I know im probably coming off like a crazy nut, but I have some remaining concerns...

Do you think my connector issue is something to be concerned about? Now that I have an non-original electrical part on the terminal block of a 1 year old appliance?

If that connection fails, do you think I have a fire hazard on hand or do you think it would be an issue of the dryer just not working?

If that neutral connection fails, does the current go to ground??

And if I were to have to remake that splice I would likely not have enough slack in the wires. Would I have to have the power wires replaced internally?
 
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Old 09-16-14, 06:16 PM
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Do you think my connector issue is something to be concerned about? Now that I have an non-original electrical part on the terminal block of a 1 year old appliance?
No. The terminals are generic and as long as you don't have the cheapest (read imported from a huge Asian country) brand you are fine.

If that connection fails, do you think I have a fire hazard on hand or do you think it would be an issue of the dryer just not working?
I would be extremely surprised if it failed. IF it did, most likely the dryer would just stop working.

If that neutral connection fails, does the current go to ground?
Not unless it falls onto the cabinet.
 
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