Kenmore 80 series washer spins occasionally
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Kenmore 80 series washer spins occasionally
I have a Kenmore 80 series washer that has been spinning only intermittently. During the spin cycle the washer makes a noise very similar to when it actually spins, except when I open the lid it isn't spinning at all. Each time this happens, I hear a clunk sound (like something is engaging) right after I lift the lid and thereafter the spin cycle runs without problem.
A friend suggested that this could either be caused by a bad timer or a worn clutch, so I replaced both. Also, I noticed several spots of oil on the floor beneath the washer. The very first test load I did after replacing these, the machine did the same thing.
Replacing the timer seems pretty fool-proof, but I'm wondering if it is possible to improperly install a clutch. As I read different threads it sounds like it could be the transmission. Before I spend that kind of money, I'd like the opinion of those with more experience. What else could be causing this?
Thanks in advance!
A friend suggested that this could either be caused by a bad timer or a worn clutch, so I replaced both. Also, I noticed several spots of oil on the floor beneath the washer. The very first test load I did after replacing these, the machine did the same thing.
Replacing the timer seems pretty fool-proof, but I'm wondering if it is possible to improperly install a clutch. As I read different threads it sounds like it could be the transmission. Before I spend that kind of money, I'd like the opinion of those with more experience. What else could be causing this?
Thanks in advance!
#2
Drops of oil usually means oil in clutch. The way drain , spin cycle works is after it agitates it will drain(no spin) stops for a little while minute or so than it will restart and than spin. Opening and closing lid is the same as the built in stop in timer. Let us know if not doing this.
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To add to pugsl's remarks, after agitation stops, the washer will drain for a full 2 minutes without spinning. After the 2 minute drain, the motor should stop for a few seconds and then restart at which time it should start spinning while continuing to drain. If the motor does not pause after the 2 minute drain, then the timer is faulty. Opening/closing the lid pauses the motor and causes spin to start early.
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A faulty timer seemed to be the answer until I replaced it and realized that the machine is still doing the same thing. I also replaced the clutch (correctly, I hope) because I was told that was the second most likely reason. Unfortunately the problem still exists, so I draw one of two conclusions: the new clutch is installed incorrectly, or some other part is faulty.
Reading other threads leads me to believe that this same problem could also be caused by 1) a bad lid switch, or 2) a bad transmission.
I tested the lid switch by pressing it with a pen and measuring the depth at which it clicks, then comparing that to the length of the pin on the lid. It seems to be in functioning order. Not sure how to test the transmission.
Thanks again for your time on this one!
Reading other threads leads me to believe that this same problem could also be caused by 1) a bad lid switch, or 2) a bad transmission.
I tested the lid switch by pressing it with a pen and measuring the depth at which it clicks, then comparing that to the length of the pin on the lid. It seems to be in functioning order. Not sure how to test the transmission.
Thanks again for your time on this one!
#5
Please post model # Is the lid switch in a slot in top? Easy way to check is put your hand under switch and feel if body pushes down when you push switch with pen. Tell us what it is doing and when it is doing it. Does it make noise like it is spnning. Have you run a complete cycle and see if running right?
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So, your saying the washer drains for 2 full minutes, motor pauses, starts again but still doesn't spin unless you open and close the lid? If that is the case, the only way to determine the problem is to operate the machine with the cabinet removed and lid switch bypassed so you can observe the clutch and basket drive. After the 2 minute drain and motor pause, when motor starts again, if the clutch hub is not spinning, then the transmission is faulty (not shifting out of neutral). If it is spinning but the basket drive is not, then the clutch band is slipping. To tell if the basket drive is spinning, look up above the clutch hub into the brake hub. The large brake spring should be rotating around inside the hub.

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Please post model # Is the lid switch in a slot in top?
Tell us what it is doing and when it is doing it. Does it make noise like it is spnning. Have you run a complete cycle and see if running right?
So, your saying the washer drains for 2 full minutes, motor pauses, starts again but still doesn't spin unless you open and close the lid?
Also, it seems that the 'clunk' when the transmission engages is getting louder.
Sorry if my explanations are unclear. As you may have perceived, I'm unfamiliar with this machine and this is the first time I have tried a repair like this.
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Yes, this is correct. So, it sounds like the clutch band may be slipping?
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I finally had time to take the cabinet off and observe the washer operate. When the washer fails to spin neither the clutch, nor the basket drive is spinning. Based on what you have posted, I understand that the transmission is faulty. Is this a correct assumption?
While the cabinet was off I saw the line of oil splattered on the inside and saw quite a lot of oil in various other places around the motor. Is that associated with the transmission, or is that another issue to be resolved?
Thanks very much!
While the cabinet was off I saw the line of oil splattered on the inside and saw quite a lot of oil in various other places around the motor. Is that associated with the transmission, or is that another issue to be resolved?
Thanks very much!
#10
You will need a top seal, clutch and drive coupler plus whatever is broken in transmission. Google Gearcase repair and there are many videos of repair.
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I really appreciate all of the help with this so far.
Feeling uncomfortable with taking apart the transmission, I purchased a new one and finally installed it today. Unfortunately, on the first load the washer did the same thing as before. I have replaced the timer, clutch, and transmission with brand new OEM parts. Assuming I have installed everything properly, what else could possibly be causing this problem?
Feeling uncomfortable with taking apart the transmission, I purchased a new one and finally installed it today. Unfortunately, on the first load the washer did the same thing as before. I have replaced the timer, clutch, and transmission with brand new OEM parts. Assuming I have installed everything properly, what else could possibly be causing this problem?
#12
In your console is a tech sheet. On sheet is a timer chart, looks complicated but is fairly simple. One row is cycles, one row is time , Black lines show time cycle is on. When washer is running you can tell when each thing is supposed to happen. Let us know what doesn't work at what time. Right now I ran out of ideas.