GE Nautilus Dishwasher - No Water Coming In

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Old 10-23-14, 06:51 AM
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GE Nautilus Dishwasher - No Water Coming In

I have a GE Nautilus Model number GSD2200F00WH.

When I turn it on and let it run for a few minutes, I open it up and discover that absolutely no water has entered the dishwasher.

I've done some searching online and learned about the "water inlet valve."

Being that water isn't coming in, it would make sense that something named the "water inlet valve" could be the issue, however with them costing as much as nearly $50.00 (according to this page), I was wondering if there's some test I can do prior to making the investment in an inlet valve, to be sure that that is indeed the issue.

Do you know of a test I can perform to give me more confidence that the inlet valve is indeed (or isn't) the issue?

Thanks for your time and assistance
 
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Old 10-23-14, 07:41 AM
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!st make sure the water under sink to dishwasher wasn't turned off. If water on make sure water is flowing to dishwasher. (loosen fitting and see if water there.) Next check is you are getting voltage to valve , 120 ac
 
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Old 10-23-14, 11:49 AM
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When I try to disconnect the wire harness from the terminals on the inlet valve it won't come completely off. I stopped pulling out of fear of damaging something. I was pulling extremely hard, but they wouldn't come all the way off.

I pulled it back far enough to expose a decent portion of the terminals, though.... Name:  issue.jpg
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so I went ahead and measured using the portion of the terminals that were exposed.

When I measured it, it came up to just below the 500ohm mark (Name:  issue.jpg
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So, going by this Youtube video, does that mean that the inlet valve needs to be replaced, or do I need to find a way to pull the wires all the way off of the terminals before I trust the multimeter's reading?
 
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Old 10-23-14, 11:53 AM
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Oh, and the water is indeed flowing to the dishwasher
 
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Old 10-23-14, 12:43 PM
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Put a screwdriver between blue and red part and turn, Try to hold flat to terminal and try to turn on medal plug inside red plug. 0 volts did you have it in fill? and plugged in. Dishwasher guy will be in later getting some questions to help. Did you check resistance of coil or voltage?
 
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Old 10-24-14, 08:41 AM
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I'm hoping that when you made your measurement that the dishwasher was disconnected from power.

The plug needs to be disconnected from the valve. Then you make your continuity check. Usually if the meter move the valve is good. Since you are using an analog meter... set it to Rx10 scale.
 
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Old 10-25-14, 06:02 AM
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I finally got the plug disconnected from the valve; I'm getting the same reading on the meter as I did before.

It's moving slightly, but the reading isn't making it to the range referenced in the video I mentioned.

Since it IS moving, should I move on to another part to inspect? If so, what part do you recommend?

PJ Max recommended this page to someone else on this forum with a similar issue in the past.

...on that page I learned about the "Float." How would I go about troubleshooting to see if the float might be the issue?

...or do you recommend that I look somewhere else right now, instead of the float?
 
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Old 10-25-14, 07:39 AM
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Checking the float is the next step. You should see the raised portion inside the machine at the bottom where the float switch is located. Usually the switch is towards the front of the unit and is accessible from the bottom. There will be two wires connected to it. It should continuity. The meter should show a dead short. When using your meter.... connect the leads together and zero the meter first.

If the meter doesn't show continuity then you can unsnap the cover from the top to see it something is causing it to stick. The switches very rarely go bad.... the linkage/float gets stuck.
 
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Old 10-26-14, 07:12 AM
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So this is what I'm looking at after I removed the top from the float.

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Not sure why I bothered taking it off, after re-reading your instructions, it appears that it wasn't necessary, unless it needs to be replaced (the float, that is)



You mentioned testing some wires. Are these the two wires you're talking about?

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I couldn't identify any other wires under the bottom of the dishwasher that were close to the float.
 
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Old 10-26-14, 07:55 AM
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While you have the float off make sure everything is clean and that the float slides easily.
Yes.... those are the wires. There are two little black clips next to the wires that hold the bottom cover on.
 
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Old 10-26-14, 08:09 AM
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When you say that it should show a "dead short," are you saying that nothing should happen on the meter (the meter doesn't move, in other words) when I test the two lines? I ask, because that's what's happening.
 
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Old 10-26-14, 08:20 AM
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Touch your two meter leads together...... that would be a dead short..... the meter should move to the opposite end. Now connect to the switch and you should see the same.
 
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Old 10-26-14, 08:41 AM
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connect to the switch and you should see the same.
Yep, that's what happened. What should I look-into next? I cleaned-up most of that gunk that was showing on the float in the picture I posted earlier, by the way...
 
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Old 10-26-14, 10:55 AM
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It would be ideal to power the unit up and see if you get power (120vac) on the fill valve.

When you had the toe plate off.... did you see a tech sheet in there ? May have been folded up in a little bag. Can usually be very helpful.
 
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Old 10-29-14, 05:43 AM
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It Was Working for a While...

The dishwasher started working for about 2-3 loads after I cleaned the float, and checked the resistance at the intake valve and float as you guys recommended.

I kinda wonder if there's a short somewhere that was reconnected temporarily somehow while checking the resistance at those locations and moving the float around or something.

What do you think? Do you still think checking the fill valve is the logical next step?

No, there's no tech sheet in there.
 
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Old 10-29-14, 08:59 PM
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By checking the fill valve for 120vac when in fill mode will tell you if you have a valve problem or a power supply problem.
 
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Old 11-02-14, 08:38 AM
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PJmax
By checking the fill valve for 120vac when in fill mode will tell you if you have a valve problem or a power supply problem.
OK, so now I need to go back and re-check the inlet valve for voltage? Just making sure I understand what you're saying, being that I already checked it earlier for resistance.

If so, do I check it by putting the leads on the same two portions of that part like I did when I checked it for resistance?

Also, considering that I'm checking it for voltage, would I want to shut the power off leading to the dishwasher prior to checking it for 120v? I know the power supply needs to be off for safety, however with it off, it seems like having it off would make it read 0V, so I'm a little confused on what to do in that regard.
 
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Old 11-02-14, 09:39 AM
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You are not going to get much of a reading with the power off to the dishwasher. I would simply ensure power to the dishwasher and then turn the dial to the point where the dishwasher starts and water is supposed to come in. At that time, I would probe the two copper connections between your pink and blue plastic insulators. It should read approximately 120VAC. If not, that is your problem. If it does and you are still not getting water, then I would replace the fill valve.
 
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Old 11-02-14, 09:49 AM
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Correct... thanks Eagle.

Normally when continuity is measured ok on a valve it's usually good but you can have a coil that shows continuity but the valve is internally sticking.

You should be able to push your probes into the backside of the connector and have them stay there and power up the unit. The connector should be connected to the solenoid during testing.
 
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Old 11-03-14, 09:23 AM
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I turned the power on to the dishwasher, set it to start (where the water comes-in initially) set the meter to the 300VAC scale and placed the leads here:

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...and the meter didn't move.

To make sure there wasn't anything wrong with the meter, I checked the same two points for resistance, and got a reading.

Does this mean that I need to replace the valve?
 
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Old 11-03-14, 08:09 PM
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If you didn't get a meter reading then it means you don't have 120v there and the valve won't open. The valve only gets power for approx 1 minute to fill. I have left a link for you below to the schematic/tech sheet for your dishwasher.

nautilus dw_tech sheet.jpg

The tech sheet shows you when you should get valve activations (water fills).
In the diagram below..... use your voltmeter to check where the blue arrows are pointing.
This will check for power before the float switch. If you have 120v here.... then the float switch is the problem.

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Last edited by PJmax; 11-03-14 at 08:46 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 11-04-14, 08:31 AM
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...so are you saying that I need to make sure I'm testing the voltage on the input valve at the very beginning of the cycle, since that valve is only sent power during the first 60 seconds of the cycle?

Just wanted to make sure I'm comprehending your message properly. Thanks
 
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Old 11-04-14, 10:57 PM
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That's why I left you the tech sheet.

You should get a fill from :30 to 1:30; 5:30 to 6:30; 26:30 to 27:30, etc.
I would start it several times from the beginning to check.
 
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Old 11-18-14, 12:04 PM
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Baffled.

A few weeks ago, I started and restarted the machine numerous times while holding the probes against the two terminals for long periods of time, and I never got a reading for voltage.

I even switched the probes on the meter to the opposite terminals on the intake valve, and I still didn't get a voltage reading on the meter.

Funny thing is, the dishwasher all of a sudden starting working again; even while I had the probes on and failed to get a reading.

I didn't know if having the intake valve mounted was causing some type of electrical issue, so I left it hanging for 2 weeks and the dishwasher worked with no issues.

It worked for a couple weeks, so yesterday I decided to re-mount the intake valve, (as it's not safe to have all the electrical wires exposed and such) and it's back to not working again.

There's a little bit of water on the dishes, but they aren't getting washed during the cycle. It looks as if someone sprayed a mist of water over the dishes in the dishwasher; normally after a few minutes into the cycle, they're soaked.

Any ideas?
 
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